bankz5152
Well-Known Member
There was a damaged stud on the output flange of the TX box - Handbrake side.
Removed everything not realising I needed bloody circlip pliers! Bought some nice quality ones and replaced all 4 studs. Pretty simple job took around 1hr30 to do, inc topping up the TX box oil.
What I did find is that the "prop shaft removal tool" is the biggest waste og money ever. Didnt fit in the recesses for any of the prop bolts where a regular socket does fit. Total trash.
Also got around to starting to fit the loadspace 3 point seatbelt bracket. All the nuts and bolts came of easily enough, bracket fits but I need to sand off a little rivet head for a smooth fitment.
Once its bolted in I'll start carefully cutting away at the interior trim. Ideally I would remove it but with the rollcage in the way Im afraid of doing damage to the trim.
Removed everything not realising I needed bloody circlip pliers! Bought some nice quality ones and replaced all 4 studs. Pretty simple job took around 1hr30 to do, inc topping up the TX box oil.
What I did find is that the "prop shaft removal tool" is the biggest waste og money ever. Didnt fit in the recesses for any of the prop bolts where a regular socket does fit. Total trash.
Also got around to starting to fit the loadspace 3 point seatbelt bracket. All the nuts and bolts came of easily enough, bracket fits but I need to sand off a little rivet head for a smooth fitment.
Once its bolted in I'll start carefully cutting away at the interior trim. Ideally I would remove it but with the rollcage in the way Im afraid of doing damage to the trim.
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
So fitted the bracket in place, can't say I am overly pleased. That said it has solved the safety issue I had...
Ended up with this, had to cut away in areas I didnt think I should have to. Also at the minute I cannot get the quarter window interior trim back in without some major trimming, which I would ideally avoid. The side window trim also isnt sitting flush but I'm pretty sure I can solve that!
Ended up with this, had to cut away in areas I didnt think I should have to. Also at the minute I cannot get the quarter window interior trim back in without some major trimming, which I would ideally avoid. The side window trim also isnt sitting flush but I'm pretty sure I can solve that!
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
Started to replace my suspension. Decided to go for Terrafirma Medium Load as they fit my bill the most and wasn't after a lift kit, also everything I have read has been generally positive bar some complaints on the paint quality. I have replaced them as the Delphi shocks where getting a little tired and every bush was on the verge of failing also had quite enough of the Britpart HD springs as I just don't carry enough weight to warrant them.
Started last night, only took just over an hour I was surprised how easy it all came apart. Little scary clamping down an HD spring but got there in the end!
Dislocation Cone unbolted and new shock fitted
Spring gone, definitely the hardest part, cleaned up the area a little but no rust or damage so happy days -
New Spring & Shock in place, not I chose not to refit the dislocation cone and instead cable tie the spring to the turret seat. Should keep the spring in place and prevent dislocation.
One thing I did notice which I started another thread for is from the TD5 onwards LR fitted bush location cups on the axle end of the rear shock mounts. The Terrafirma shocks don't fit properly with these and can result in a sheered shock. Two choices I believe which I'm currently working out, cut the cups off and use the Terrafirma supplied bushes etc or buy standard bushes to fit in the LR cups.
Started last night, only took just over an hour I was surprised how easy it all came apart. Little scary clamping down an HD spring but got there in the end!
Dislocation Cone unbolted and new shock fitted
Spring gone, definitely the hardest part, cleaned up the area a little but no rust or damage so happy days -
New Spring & Shock in place, not I chose not to refit the dislocation cone and instead cable tie the spring to the turret seat. Should keep the spring in place and prevent dislocation.
One thing I did notice which I started another thread for is from the TD5 onwards LR fitted bush location cups on the axle end of the rear shock mounts. The Terrafirma shocks don't fit properly with these and can result in a sheered shock. Two choices I believe which I'm currently working out, cut the cups off and use the Terrafirma supplied bushes etc or buy standard bushes to fit in the LR cups.
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
Rear suspension is fitted! Took a while to grind/chisel off the bush cups but all done now. After a short drive around I have noticed the back sits better after hitting a bump, much softer actually absorbs the impact rather than bouncing over it, so far I'm pleased.
Bushes seem a little tight to me though
Busy all weekend but will probably get cracking on the front on Monday, been lathering all the nuts daily in Plusgas. Biggest issue is the nut on the passenger side shock has cross threaded and the gap is too small to fit a nut cracker in, so cold chisel it will be!
Bushes seem a little tight to me though
Busy all weekend but will probably get cracking on the front on Monday, been lathering all the nuts daily in Plusgas. Biggest issue is the nut on the passenger side shock has cross threaded and the gap is too small to fit a nut cracker in, so cold chisel it will be!
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
Been very ill past few days so ive done very little...
Been bored today and everyone keeps going on about how terrible the paint is on the springs I bought. So popped out and bought a can of Plastidip, basically an areosol plastic/rubber type paint, quite durable but not amazing. Main reason is it should flex with the springs instead of cracking.
Been bored today and everyone keeps going on about how terrible the paint is on the springs I bought. So popped out and bought a can of Plastidip, basically an areosol plastic/rubber type paint, quite durable but not amazing. Main reason is it should flex with the springs instead of cracking.
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
Cheers, getting better-ish I think...
Cracked on today though! Did the passenger side which I knew was going to be difficult because the bottom nut on the shock was cross threaded. Cold chisel wasnt cutting it, so drilled a hole in the nut then smacked it harder, after about 45 minutes it was off! Then there was a second
, this one did not budge at all. So the same, drill hole, smash off. Eventually it released the shock!
Removing the turrets was, interesting... Every bolt sheered off! Luckily I bought HD ones to go back on + Gywn Lewis HD turrets which are nice! Final pain in the ass was the spring retaining bar, they where cheap hex/socket heads, which surprise, surprise rounded off in seconds. At least gave me a chance to try out my new nut cracker. Which kind of worked... It more squashed the nut with a split than crack it, que the chisel! Also had to grind off the top nut on both shocks as these where beyond seized.
All off eventually, took most of the day due to the ****ty bolts. All of which have been replaced by better ones.
Overall much more difficult than the rears, but still easily doable by anyone handy with a spanner.
Hopefully I will no longer be ill tomorrow and will finish the drivers side!
On another note I fitted a brand new genuine Crank Case Breather, as a member suggested on here. Shall see if there is any difference when the suspension is done.
Cracked on today though! Did the passenger side which I knew was going to be difficult because the bottom nut on the shock was cross threaded. Cold chisel wasnt cutting it, so drilled a hole in the nut then smacked it harder, after about 45 minutes it was off! Then there was a second
, this one did not budge at all. So the same, drill hole, smash off. Eventually it released the shock! Removing the turrets was, interesting... Every bolt sheered off! Luckily I bought HD ones to go back on + Gywn Lewis HD turrets which are nice! Final pain in the ass was the spring retaining bar, they where cheap hex/socket heads, which surprise, surprise rounded off in seconds. At least gave me a chance to try out my new nut cracker. Which kind of worked... It more squashed the nut with a split than crack it, que the chisel! Also had to grind off the top nut on both shocks as these where beyond seized.
All off eventually, took most of the day due to the ****ty bolts. All of which have been replaced by better ones.
Overall much more difficult than the rears, but still easily doable by anyone handy with a spanner.
Hopefully I will no longer be ill tomorrow and will finish the drivers side!
On another note I fitted a brand new genuine Crank Case Breather, as a member suggested on here. Shall see if there is any difference when the suspension is done.
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
Finished! Rather pleased with myself, all in all probably took around a weekend in total. Difficulty remains the same, handy with a spanner you'll be fine.
One thing did make me a little nervous the drivers side damper did not extend quite as aggressively as the other 3. Took a little encouragement to get it to extend fully while the other 3 did so of their own accord. Seems fine now its fitted though.
Took it out for drive, I have 1000 speed bumps on my road so the test began fast. It absorbs the bumps much better, feels more planted and less bouncy, generally more comfortable. Drove round some winding roads, corners well, feels much smoother. Overall I am happy.
Being the "Medium Duty" kit it has raised it ever so slightly, around 20mm each corner which is fine and hardly noticeable.
The new depression control valve is great too, turbo spools up quicker which is nice.
Next task for when I get paid is new rear discs and pads, +2 braided lines (just for a bit of wiggle room) and some nice new brake fluid.
Rather pleased with myself, all in all probably took around a weekend in total. Difficulty remains the same, handy with a spanner you'll be fine. One thing did make me a little nervous the drivers side damper did not extend quite as aggressively as the other 3. Took a little encouragement to get it to extend fully while the other 3 did so of their own accord. Seems fine now its fitted though.
Took it out for drive, I have 1000 speed bumps on my road so the test began fast. It absorbs the bumps much better, feels more planted and less bouncy, generally more comfortable. Drove round some winding roads, corners well, feels much smoother. Overall I am happy.
Being the "Medium Duty" kit it has raised it ever so slightly, around 20mm each corner which is fine and hardly noticeable.
The new depression control valve is great too, turbo spools up quicker which is nice.
Next task for when I get paid is new rear discs and pads, +2 braided lines (just for a bit of wiggle room) and some nice new brake fluid.
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
All the parts have arrived to do the rear discs which I'll do some point of the weekend. Went for Mintex to match the front.
Finally fitted the rear trim back in with the new seat belts. Quite a task! Much cutting, drilling, offering up and back. Almost perfect now and looks considerably better!
Finally fitted the rear trim back in with the new seat belts. Quite a task! Much cutting, drilling, offering up and back. Almost perfect now and looks considerably better!
LandyMan
Well-Known Member
what are your thoughts on britpart discs and brakes?
I'm looking at replacing all my discs, pads, calipres and hubs soon. defo want to get grooved and drilled discs, just not sure which 1's to go for atm
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
Avoid Britpart. Mintex discs & pads where £45.
There is no point fitting grooved/drilled discs, youll never drive a defender hard enough to warrent them. On top of that the drilled holes get full of muck and can crack, the grooves also get full of muck which will ruin your pads rather fast. The standard set up is more the capable of stopping the Landy even a tuned one.
Vented on the front, solid on the back, new quality brake fluid & some braided lines and brakeing will be vastly improved.
There is no point fitting grooved/drilled discs, youll never drive a defender hard enough to warrent them. On top of that the drilled holes get full of muck and can crack, the grooves also get full of muck which will ruin your pads rather fast. The standard set up is more the capable of stopping the Landy even a tuned one.
Vented on the front, solid on the back, new quality brake fluid & some braided lines and brakeing will be vastly improved.
LandyMan
Well-Known Member
mine will be for my disco, never thought about dirt getting in the grooves, thats a good point, so i'll just get some standard discs then, thanks
BronkoMini
Active Member
What trim do you have in the back?
BronkoMini
Active Member
Ok cheers, I've never seen them in black.
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
And it was all going so well!
The passenger side caliper has seized so that needs replacing - Complete OEM one on the way for £30 happy with that!
Then on the other side wheel bearings have gone and the inner bearing has collapsed and seized to the stub axle and will not move. So removed the stub axle, happily came off without incident, bought a new one.
Never simple always hard!
Now to rebuild the passenger side hubs and refit as much as I can. Noticed some minor rough patches on the stub axle so shall go over them with a bit of wet a dry. Will rebuild the drivers side hubs but will have to wait until the stub arrives to refit along with new seals, bolts and wheel bearings.
The passenger side caliper has seized so that needs replacing - Complete OEM one on the way for £30 happy with that!
Then on the other side wheel bearings have gone and the inner bearing has collapsed and seized to the stub axle and will not move. So removed the stub axle, happily came off without incident, bought a new one.
Never simple always hard!
Now to rebuild the passenger side hubs and refit as much as I can. Noticed some minor rough patches on the stub axle so shall go over them with a bit of wet a dry. Will rebuild the drivers side hubs but will have to wait until the stub arrives to refit along with new seals, bolts and wheel bearings.
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