rich28uk

rich28uk

Well-Known Member
Hi guys past 3 days iv has this issue twice where car drives fine, but when I stop park up etc get back in select drive it takes ages foot hard down to move then seems to get going and revs up to 3000 and then changes gear fine.
Are there any possible or known causes? Iv done the oil and filter bit back, so Maby filter is full again? Oil was dark but still browny red not black and burnt, fuel is 1/4 tank, maf is unplugged as it runs better with out it, however I unplugged it while back and still intend on replacing it, wastegate was moving freely when I checked few weeks back. I can hear a whistle under load so still tracing that if it’s the dodgy exhaust manifold or turbo hose but this issue is just when setting off without and real load, car is 2004,td5 auto. Cheers guys.
 
Mine does this and im 99% sure its the xyz switch. Do your gear selection lights on shifter all light up? Even on a cold damp morning? My N is intermittent and i think its causing the ecu confusion when it goes quickly from R to D or P to D. I get a limp mode for 5 secs then it takes off.
Im going to replace my switch in next few weeks so will report back. Ive got not codes on Hawkeye and no m and s lights. Its clearly an electronic issue to me, not mechanical.
 
I have had this issue for quite a while now in all weathers and temperatures and like OP have changed the oil and filter. It DID seem to improve a bit so I put it down to lack of ATF but has since returned. It does get better when the gearbox oil warms up but obviously that takes quite a long while.
Personally I am wondering if there is still an obstruction somewhere in the box preventing the ATF flowing freely until it gets hotter and thinner, or could it be that the torque converter is on its last legs?
I am really interested in this problem and its solution as, having rust in the chassis and a leak which may well turn out to be ATF, I am on the point of having to either spend a ton of money on her or to sell it as is and cut my losses.
 
All my dash lights go on and off on start up and drives fine otherwise. Today I had the problem on first outing but second start up, iv since been out 4 more times and it’s been fine,
I’m collecting another filter kit tomorrow and more atf so will do that at possibly tomorrow morning or Saturday morning. I can’t see it being torque converter as I would think the symptoms would be more frequent or noisy or something along them lines, I think it could be electrical issue, once you clean or change xyz switch let us know how you get on,
iv a long trip up Scotland end of next week last thing I need is dodgy gearbox but they do seem reliable and long lived so don’t think it’s the box itself.
 
Regarding your leak if it is atf this could only be the sump gasket as there doesn’t seem to be many places to leak from, should be a easy fix?
 
Stan, when did you do your oil and filter? Maby filter is clogged again since doing it via sump only removes some, when I did mine I couldn’t get the drain plug out so dropped the entire sump, got covered in atf.. new filter, refil. Then couple of weeks later, got the sump plug out (sorted when I had sump off) dropped 4/5 litres and refilled so I’m thinking now it’s had plenty of new fluid has this moved some muck or from previous old oil into the new filter now creating resistance so for £15 oil and filter I’ll change them again.
 
My symptoms may be different as its only when ive been in R then i stop and whack it in to D quickly. To me, the box is in 3rd gear (or whatever its limp mode gear is) whilst it works out what gear the shifter (and therefore xyz) is in. My xyz is dodgy as the selector lights on N dont always light up. Then its happy after 3/4/5 secs and whacks it back in 1st and off you go. Its not anything physical im 99% sure of that.
May be that you have another issue.
 
Yours does sound like a xyz/ electrical issue. Have you tried cleaning yours? I can’t say iv noticed any lights on/ off on the selector or m and s lights as when Iv gone park into drive and set off each time it’s been bit of surprise so without properly looking iv just booted it then it gets going and nearly takes out the old lady crossing the road :D:eek: , then it’s fine all day. So performance I don’t think is a issue to me it’s lack of hydraulic pressure or dodgy signal or something sticking.
 
rich28uk said:
Hi guys past 3 days iv has this issue twice where car drives fine, but when I stop park up etc get back in select drive it takes ages foot hard down to move then seems to get going and revs up to 3000 and then changes gear fine.
Are there any possible or known causes? Iv done the oil and filter bit back, so Maby filter is full again? Oil was dark but still browny red not black and burnt, fuel is 1/4 tank, maf is unplugged as it runs better with out it, however I unplugged it while back and still intend on replacing it, wastegate was moving freely when I checked few weeks back. I can hear a whistle under load so still tracing that if it’s the dodgy exhaust manifold or turbo hose but this issue is just when setting off without and real load, car is 2004,td5 auto. Cheers guys.
Click to expand...
I had similar issue in the past with my previous td5 which was also automatic. When I stopped my car and switched off the engine (even for a short time) when I restarted and started to move it took her about 10 sec (every time exactly this time) to recover and to run fine. For me the change of MAF has solved this issue.
 
Iv just plugged mine back in this morning so will see how it runs. However it shouldn’t do it with maf unplugged should it as it gets a default value?
 
rich28uk said:
Stan, when did you do your oil and filter? Maby filter is clogged again since doing it via sump only removes some, when I did mine I couldn’t get the drain plug out so dropped the entire sump, got covered in atf.. new filter, refil. Then couple of weeks later, got the sump plug out (sorted when I had sump off) dropped 4/5 litres and refilled so I’m thinking now it’s had plenty of new fluid has this moved some muck or from previous old oil into the new filter now creating resistance so for £15 oil and filter I’ll change them again.
Click to expand...
Rich, I changed the oil and filter about mApril last year, I don't do a high mileage but I do drive it to South west France and back, once a year, ditto the Dales and back to East Dorset, once a year.
As I changed the filter, I had to take the sump off, but I don't have a sump plug issue, so I drained the oil that way before taking the sump off.
Removing sump doesn't empty out any more ATF than draining it from the sump plug, as far as I know. There is always a ton left in the torque converter and the rest of the gear wheels, planet/sun thingies, which is why to do a complete oil change you need to be able to disconnect the pipe from the cooling rad and run the car, while emptying the ATF out and refilling it, via the pipes.
As for the leak, II know it isn't leaking from the sump gasket, as that is easily checked, what worries me is leaks from the pipes back and forth from the cooler and possibly elsewhere.
Deffo not an XYZ problem. No problems there with changing gear, lights or anything else.
Just off to garage so I'll let you know.
Stan
 
...also it was not the first time I had "changed" the oil, just the first time I changed the filter. And I did the oil when I first bought it in 2014. So about 30K miles back.
I am aware that James Martin suggests changing the oil once a year and i think he says to do the filter once very two... and he knows his stuff.
It is just it is such a messy business, taking a shower in ATF even if you have managed to drain it out via plug. No 4 post lift outside MY house unfortunately!
 
Good luck at garage, definitely keep us updated. Know what you mean about being a messy job, think when I dropped sump there was more aft on me and driveway than in the bowl, and to refil I couldn’t get hold of a small pump so had to use one of them oil syringes which drip everywhere. Mines behaved it’s self this morning in a mix of stop start town trafic, county roads and hills and motorway and 3 times stop-start all iv done is clean and lube turbo wastegate and reconnect maf.
 
I can’t see it being a big issue, just knowing what is causing it, if it’s box related someone must know as it’s a box that’s been around a long time and seems a simple box when compared to new autos. With regards to your leak them cooler pipes do look weak especially the fittings, pitty LR didn’t use something like stainless pipes and fittings, would outlast the car.
 
Garage said much the same. I'll see if I can get to the fittings and tighten them up a bit.
Typically it behaved itself on the ten minute drive to see him.

Main reason for going was to discuss the beginnings of rust on the chassis. Usual place. He'll weld it for £200, or fit a new rear chassis for £700 plus VAT.
Maybe when it gets bad again.....lol!
 
£700 doesn’t seem bad for rear chassis, cheaper than swapping car. Is it not something you can tackle at home? Know it’s hard on drive but there are some who have done it by supporting car on blocks and using jacks to lift new chassis in place. Mine is a bit odd I think as my chassis is solid apart from surface rust where waxoyl has worn off my plan is steam it and treat it in spring, but iv two small holes Maby 3 inch long on both sills.
 
rich28uk said:
£700 doesn’t seem bad for rear chassis, cheaper than swapping car. Is it not something you can tackle at home? Know it’s hard on drive but there are some who have done it by supporting car on blocks and using jacks to lift new chassis in place. Mine is a bit odd I think as my chassis is solid apart from surface rust where waxoyl has worn off my plan is steam it and treat it in spring, but iv two small holes Maby 3 inch long on both sills.
Click to expand...
Typically he is a bit of a suck through the teeth and "this'll cot yuh" merchant but underneath it all, once you remind him you do all (or most of) your own work and talk about scrapping it if it's going to cost too much, he gets reasonable. He did show me the leavings of one he'd cut off and replaced, that he'd already patched twice, quite shocking where part of it just snapped off!
He also tried to flog me 5 wheels and tyres with General Grabbers on for £125 and also mentioned he had a rear seat, the big one, exactly the same colour and material, to replace the one that needs fixing cos the back on it won't lock into place, until I take it apart and fix it.
So I'll take the tow bar off and give it to him fairly soon and meanwhile try to fix all the other stupid little things like replace the two rear shocks and fix the SRS light, which should be just a connection under the seat, as it sometimes works and sometimes doesn't. This is what it has been in the past, but I cross fingers really hard on anything electrical on these trucks.
Mechanic was saying TD5s aren't worth very much at all scrap, about the same for the engine as a 300tdi and LESS than a 200tdi which he lauds as he says they are bombproof. I've heard others say that too but I do not know what makes them better.
Anyway
Cheers Stan
 
Know the type you mean, more garages are like that round me, I think a lot just charge as they don’t want the job and prefer basic service and repair like brake discs and pads, exhaust back box etc easy work easy money.
It is surprising how the rear chassis fail, when I got this I looked at at least 6, everyone had a MOT advisory on chassis rust and once viewed could tell it was Maby a patch or two but new chassis within year or two, mine was one of the rough ones cosmetically like no lacquer on bonnet, knackered alloys (came with good set in the deal) but apart from little holes in sill rest was solid, farmer selling it even gave me a hammer and said hit it to see!
As for electrics I’m still picking up how it works, I’m a electrician by trade mostly industrial but car electronics are totally different field.
I suppose the old 2/300 tdi are bombproof because there from a time when everything was cast iron and simple where later things get such as td5s more things can go wrong but they seem good for there time, I speak to few good mechanics who say stick with older vehicles as new stuff is way over complicated and poor quality.
 
I have a 300tdi and a Disco 1 V8 and eventually I think I'll get rid of the TD5 and go back to the others. Mostly for reasons other than practicality. I tend to connect with my vehicles on an emotional level.
The TD5 is eminently practical, the boot is bigger (only 5 seats in mine) and it drives exceedingly well, but I do not connect with it.
The 300tdi has extremely fond memories, and it is an Anniversary as well which makes it just a bit more special. I love the leather, it has no sunroofs to leak, it is reliable and far easier to fix/service, it also has working difflock. The only problem is the body's tendency to rust, but this can be done by an amateur welder like me and is the only reason I took it off the road, apart from the fact that for a short time I had to have an auto, (health reasons).
The V8 is a fabulously powerful vehicle and is all set up to run on lpg with 4 tanks cunningly fitted underneath and a smaller petrol tank. BUT to get it insured I have to faff about getting the tanks off to find numbers etc before the local guy will register it, then I will be able to insure it properly. Too many other projects have got in the way for the moment.
The TD5, to me, is ridiculously reliant on electronics in which I have no background and suffer like mad trying to understand. I have a Foxwell 520 pro, which is a big help, but even so, there are other stupid "come with the vehicle" type faults that are really annoying. Injection loom, exhaust manifold, to name but two apart from rusty chassis.
The fact that the army stopped buying Landies may well have been down to other factors, but I am sure it was not just coincidental that it came in with the advent of the TD5. Imagine trying to fix one of those on a battle field!
I don't think you need to go back as far as cast iron to be able to get on with mechanics, but the blokes you spoke to are old skool like me and I agree. But then I am an old stick-in-the-mud!;););)
 
does it slam into gear?

What was the condition of the old fluid? Smell?

Colour?

ETC
 
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