D

DPLAN

Member
i have a slight judder when driving mostly when going up a hill i thought it was the centre bearing which i did change (it did have a split in the rubber) but its still the same shudder. i spoke to the local 4x4 centre and they said its most likely the box (his had the same) he has told me to use this stuff called Dr Tranny which stopped his judder its been fine with his for 2 years now

so i have just gone to pull the plug out to put this stuff in and the allan key rounded the bolt i hammered a toque in and the same. so i was wondering if there was a return pipe i could take off and put it in there

anyone help please i am supposed to be driving to London tomorrow morning

thanks
dave
 
DPLAN said:
i have a slight judder when driving mostly when going up a hill i thought it was the centre bearing which i did change (it did have a split in the rubber) but its still the same shudder. i spoke to the local 4x4 centre and they said its most likely the box (his had the same) he has told me to use this stuff called Dr Tranny which stopped his judder its been fine with his for 2 years now

so i have just gone to pull the plug out to put this stuff in and the allan key rounded the bolt i hammered a toque in and the same. so i was wondering if there was a return pipe i could take off and put it in there

anyone help please i am supposed to be driving to London tomorrow morning

thanks
dave
Click to expand...
What model car?
 
still need to get the refill plug out to change the oil. but in the service book the gear box oil was done about 40k ago
 
DPLAN said:
still need to get the refill plug out to change the oil. but in the service book the gear box oil was done about 40k ago
Click to expand...
I don't know that box, but on earlier ZF boxes, changes at 25/30K miles is a good idea. You never know, the level might be low.
Mig welding a nut onto the plug would be my solution
 
As much as I dont think its a real fix adding Dr Tranny, some have had good results.

From what I can make out there is a breather hose which probably pops up at the back of the engine on the bulkhead.
But heres the catch the Transfer box 1 comes to the same place so you have 2 to choose from:oops:.



As above level check or full change would be best. but as you are in a bind;).

By the sounds of it now, I would get a replacement ready, you may/will have to get rough with it.

J
 
Last edited:
Small ended chisel or screw driver to start tapping it round and have a new one to replace it with. Maybe even use a centre punch
 
If it's putting up that much of a fight I think Datatek's welding a nut on is the solution.
Do it when you get back from London.
 
Your best thinking about sorting a replacement torque converter because that know doubt is the cause of the shudder ( been there done that, just replaced mine for same reason 2008 my 3.6 tdv8) if left it will break up and end up having to replace gearbox as well, and yes did try DR Tranny fix also. Just to add fill plug is 8mm allen sort a new one first.
 
Hhmmmmmm, I also have a judder... Had the box serviced back in May before heading to Italy, half way down she developed a judder when changing 2nd to 3rd iirc, didn't really get any worse but on the way home she started to slip near calais, drove off the train in the UK fine, few hundred miles later and she started juddering again. Did a second filter and oil change and it's improved slightly but still judders now and again, could this also be a torque converter issue?
 
Rallymantony said:
Hhmmmmmm, I also have a judder... Had the box serviced back in May before heading to Italy, half way down she developed a judder when changing 2nd to 3rd iirc, didn't really get any worse but on the way home she started to slip near calais, drove off the train in the UK fine, few hundred miles later and she started juddering again. Did a second filter and oil change and it's improved slightly but still judders now and again, could this also be a torque converter issue?
Click to expand...
Drop the pan from the gearbox and any silver bits will tell you the torque converter is clean of clutch material and is shedding metal. If this is the case the box will be poisoned with metal along with the cooler and pipework....
 
Mark Piercy said:
Drop the pan from the gearbox and any silver bits will tell you the torque converter is clean of clutch material and is shedding metal. If this is the case the box will be poisoned with metal along with the cooler and pipework....
Click to expand...
Thanks Mark, did a filter and oil change when I got back from Italy, no crap in the pan or around the magnet. I spoke with the garage who did the original service and it turns out they didn't flush the system.... thinking it may have crap stuck somewhere within the oil ways maybe?? Thought it was worth doing another filter and oil change to see if it made a difference, it did a bit, but still shudders now and again but mostly only when hot......
 
It's a shame the software that reads the engine and gearbox speeds along with the wheel speed sensors couldn't pick up a difference small enough to point to a slipping torque converter if it was the case...
 
hi chaps sorry so long replying work is crazy atm. i have got a replacement plug from land rover and its plastic?

anyway i think i will change the oil and filter as suggested and throw the dr tranny in for good measure where would be the best place to get the oil as i am getting some sill prices for it?

also i have found a web site called shires they have a trans filter conversion kit has anyone used this before?
 
DPLAN said:
...i have got a replacement plug from land rover and its plastic?
Click to expand...
Have they sold you a drain plug rather than a filler plug?

6HP26%20drain%20plug_zpstslwhmhv.jpg


DPLAN said:
...also i have found a web site called shires they have a trans filter conversion kit has anyone used this before?
Click to expand...
Do you mean the steel pan conversion? This is really for RRS/LR3/LR4 owners whose vehicles have a cross-member passing under the transmission sump which prevents it being removed without having to unbolt an engine mount and jacking up the engine. It’s totally unnecessary on an L322 as there is no cross-member. I personally would stick with the plastic sump, but you may have other reasons why you want to change it.

Steel_pan.jpg


Phil
 
Bemble said:
Have they sold you a drain plug rather than a filler plug?

6HP26%20drain%20plug_zpstslwhmhv.jpg



Do you mean the steel pan conversion? This is really for RRS/LR3/LR4 owners whose vehicles have a cross-member passing under the transmission sump which prevents it being removed without having to unbolt an engine mount and jacking up the engine. It’s totally unnecessary on an L322 as there is no cross-member. I personally would stick with the plastic sump, but you may have other reasons why you want to change it.

Steel_pan.jpg


Phil
Click to expand...
quite possibly i did ask for the refill bolt i will double check

i will not bother with the metal pan then just seen it and thought id ask if it were worth changing

where would be the best place to get oil and a filter from?

thanks
David
 
ZF Lifeguard Fluid 6 isn’t cheap stuff, but using it is the only way to guarantee you have the correct friction modifier pack for the optimum control of the clutches. On eBay you can buy it for around £15/litre.

There are a lot of cheap(er) pattern sump pans/filters about, but the genuine OEM part is manufactured by IBS Filtran and you should try to source one of these.

Many suppliers bundle the fluid and filter together e.g. asapgearboxparts on eBay charge £236 for 7 litres of fluid and a genuine Filtran filter.

ZF_Lifeguard_Fluid_6.jpg


Filtran.jpg


Phil
 
I'd go for the steel pan conversion as the next time the filter needs doing. You'll only need the filter and not the complete kit.
 
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