cfwnotloB said:
does this get out most of the oil, also do you need to cycle thru the gears
Click to expand...


If you look on the D3 forum and search Filo oil change theirs a guy called Filo! who shows you with pics how to do it no special kit needed.
Last time I did my D3 it was the old way, next time (this year) Im doing it his way as its way faster and cleaner, you use the engine to drive the oil out of one pipe and put the new oil back in via the other pipe, Im going to cheat and put back exactly what comes out that way I hevent even got to get underneath the car.
I dont think theres any need to go through gears thats for when you refill it to make sure theirs no air in it to get correct level.
 
silly question time

is there any way to add a new filter inline to take the crap out the fluid say for 5 mins, just to get the crap out, then do the filter and 2x atf change
just to get as much gunge out as you cant get all the old oil out doing it by just draining the sump
 
I'm sure you could add an inline filter in the cooler pipes - but the flow reverses on TQ/TC lock up, so you'd need a bi-directional filter o_O - which might make things interesting :eek:

IME, most of the crap is in the sump anyway - which you'll have to remove to get at the strainer, so I wouldn't bother ( with the "extra" filter ) .... The other advantage to changing half the oil at a time, is that sometimes the new oil, with its fresh detergent pack, can dislodge cr*p, which ends up jamming the governor - clearly less than ideal.... If the box has been serviced at all, then changing half of it should be fine ;) .... then change another "half" sometime later, and this is about the best you can do.....
 
Disco1BFG said:
I'm sure you could add an inline filter in the cooler pipes - but the flow reverses on TQ/TC lock up, so you'd need a bi-directional filter o_O - which might make things interesting :eek:

IME, most of the crap is in the sump anyway - which you'll have to remove to get at the strainer, so I wouldn't bother ( with the "extra" filter ) .... The other advantage to changing half the oil at a time, is that sometimes the new oil, with its fresh detergent pack, can dislodge cr*p, which ends up jamming the governor - clearly less than ideal.... If the box has been serviced at all, then changing half of it should be fine ;) .... then change another "half" sometime later, and this is about the best you can do.....
Click to expand...
was not going to take it out on the road just cycle through the gears for a few mins just to get the fluid through the filter - just a thought as it might clean the remaining oil slightly then do a filter - oil change and throw away temp filter
 
If theres any crap in there its shagged, the filter is very coarse and only really catches big stuff.
Has the 4 speed auto got magnets in the sump like most autos?
 
That's what i have planned - filter kit arrived yesterday, oil already sorted, need some good weather this weekend to get underneath her as its a do it on the drive job. :)
 
cfwnotloB said:
That's what i have planned - filter kit arrived yesterday, oil already sorted, need some good weather this weekend to get underneath her as its a do it on the drive job. :)
Click to expand...


If you get some spare cash the Oilsafe oil pump is well worth the money makes gearbox/diff/tfer changes real easy and best of all clean to do, I paid something like 100 quid well over ten years ago and it still works, its the worse for wear as its literally pumped hundreds on litres of oil.
There may be copies out there now which may be worth a look?
 
lynall said:
If you get some spare cash the Oilsafe oil pump is well worth the money makes gearbox/diff/tfer changes real easy and best of all clean to do, I paid something like 100 quid well over ten years ago and it still works, its the worse for wear as its literally pumped hundreds on litres of oil.
There may be copies out there now which may be worth a look?
Click to expand...
I think they are called 5ltr garden spray @ around £10 :eek: just need a fettle :cool::D
 
Im sure they will work especially with auto trans fluid but how will they get on with 85/140?
 
discool said:
Who? With a Land Rover uses oil with an SAE of 140.
Click to expand...


Land rover series extreme duty, was specced many moons ago.
When I converted from 2.0 diesel (50bhp when new) to 200tdi (110bhp) i stuck 85/140 in all the trans and 5/6 years later zero issues and it gets some stick.
I considered doubling the horsepower as pretty extreme duty, heard lots of stories of tdi killing worn out gearboxes.
Also great for steering relay and steering boxes as its pretty much stops any leaks dead.
 
lynall said:
Bearing in mind I walk past these multiple times each shift I only just noticed these at work yesterday and thought way cheaper than the Oilsafe set up.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PUMP-FOR-...458965?hash=item43a23915d5:g:9AoAAOxy86RSaOjN
Click to expand...


went all out and invested in 1 of these
http://www.wilko.com/hose-pipes-sprinklers+spray-guns/wilko-water-sprayer-5l/invt/0338924

dropped the oil, and removed the sump magnet had a load of gunge on it but nothing scary. see pics below.
cleaned sump and replaced filter, back on awaiting a refill tomorrow

007.JPG
009.JPG
 
Ive had a few auto sumps off and have to say Ive not seen one with the sludgy look you have there!
If i didnt know better I would have assumed that was an engine sump.
Magnet looks std fare, most Ive seen were round and with the rubbish they look like star fish.
 
Ok so I got 5 litres out, managed to get 3 litres back in before overflow, started up and cycled through the gears, took plug out and still overflowing.
So do I need to fill with engine running of should it all go back into box and allow more in after cycling through the gears?
 
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