Hippo · Mar 30, 2014

ianda12 said:
Hi All
Just checked the sensor resistances again, as 3 of them mysteriously went open circuit in the box when I moved the barrel connector (The other one already read open circuit from the ECU, and all four are still open circuit.

The resistance check is just that, a resistance check. If they're open circuit then first thought is the meter in the correct range if it's a manual range meter?

All it's doing is making sure the resistance loop down the wiring harness, through the auto, through the sensor/solenoid, and back through the auto and wiring harness is ok. If the barrel connectors are separated this will open circuit the measurements from the computer end. I know that may seem obvious but it's the most common question/mistake. The resistance check doesn't tell you if the solenoids are sticking (if they can stick that is) or anything else. So it's strange they go open circuit.

Hippo · Mar 30, 2014

ianda12 said:
Hi Hippo
As it is intermittent sometimes I can drive it 20 miles and its all O.K.
Other times it will happen every change in auto and manual/ sports mode.Worst changing 2nd-3rd or 3rd-2nd but today it was bad and I noticed it on most gear changes.
I don't remember hearing a drone but it certainly 'engine brakes' sharply for a second.
I normally know its not going to work because as I drive off my driveway it doesn't change up out of second (I think), even though the engine is revving to 3000+, I have to put it into sports mode and try changing up a few times to get it going.
I have also noticed that it doesn't always change up into 5th.
Just checked the solenoids, the first 6 on your list (14-18) ohm all read 16.6 ohms and draw 0.67 amps with 11.85 volts applied to them ( can't hear them move or change).
The other 3 (line pressure, brake duty and lock up) all clicked very audibly every time I pulsed them with 11.85volts
Can't be bothered to spend any more money on it so will probably scrap it.

Don't scrap it just yet.

With the engine running on tick over, what's the voltage on Fuse 4 in the engine bay fuse box?

If you stand with yer legs in front of the NS headlight, look down between the rear of the head light and the battery. You should be able to see 2 earth studs. 1 just below the head light on the horizontal bit and 1 to the right of this on the vertical bit on the engine side of the NS wing. Are they both connected and secure?

ianda12 · Mar 31, 2014

Hi All
Checked all the earth's didn't make any difference though.
I found this link on a V.W. site, uses the same box
VWVortex.com - 09A Tiptronic Solenoid Location & Function
Check 'bryhan67' post.
They number the solenoids, I think I have cross referenced them correctly below.
N88 Shift A
N89 Shift B
N92 Shift C
N90 Low clutch Timing
N91 TCC (Lock up)
N93 Line Pressure
N281 Reduction timing
N282 2/4 Brake timing
N283 2/4 Brake duty

Symptoms I have suggest the N283-Brake duty sov. might be faulty, any thoughts ?

Hippo · Mar 31, 2014

Hippo said:
...
With the engine running on tick over, what's the voltage on Fuse 4 in the engine bay fuse box?
...

What's the voltage on fuse 4 on tick over? This ere fuse supplies the solenoids and the auto's computer and some other things.

ianda12 · Mar 31, 2014

Hi Hippo
Just checked F4
Ignition on 12.56 volts
With engine running 14.38 volts
Tempted to try pulsing voltage on the 2/4 brake duty solenoid a lot of times whilst the engine is running in park to see if it stops clicking. As it is running O.K. at the moment I will have to drive it around a bit until it goes wrong again.

zefrench · Apr 1, 2014

N283 changes base on different voltage it will partially open based on voltage. Very hard to test. Most Volkswagen owner just change the whole 9 but if I were you I would take a gamble and change this one. Unless you have a mechanism to manually test it out of the valve body at different voltages.

ianda12 · Apr 14, 2014

Update on my gearbox that has intermittent harsh gear changes, especially 2-3 and 3-2.
Changed the 2/4 brake duty solenoid and the Line pressure solenoid.
Gear changes now even worse than before.

Hippo · Apr 14, 2014

That's really annoying.

Is it harsh straight away or intermittent?

Are you sure you set the auto oil level correct afterwards?

zefrench · Apr 15, 2014

that sucks hearing that gear change are worst since changing that solenoid. Did you think about doing an hydrolic pressure test on gear change?

How are the shift from 3 to 4?
4 to 5?
5 to 4?
4 to 3?

ianda12 · Apr 15, 2014

None of the shifts are very good, but 2-3 and 3-2 are particularly violent. Also when it goes wrong it sometimes won’t change up out of 2nd for a bit. I can't believe nobody knows exactly what each solenoid does. I now wish I had changed the 2-4 brake timing solenoid as well. I still might as it is quite an easy job on the Freelander.
I took some photos of the inside of the box and the solenoids if anyone is interested in them.

Hippo · Apr 16, 2014

We like pic's.

zefrench · Apr 16, 2014

Base on what you say I would do a pressure test or I would look at the reverse piston to see if it has a hairline crack on the surface.

ianda12 · Apr 18, 2014

Photos of solenoid removal
The brake duty is easy, (two mins) The two bolts also hold the brake timing sov.
The line pressure is a pig, due to lack of room. You have to disconnect two brown electrical connectors, and pull the socket parts forward of mounting lugs to be able to pull the solenoid up out of the valve block.
It took me about an hour to change that one.
Photos didn't attach I will post them again

ianda12 · Apr 18, 2014

Second try at uploading photos

zefrench · Apr 19, 2014

Thanks for the picture

Hippo · Apr 19, 2014

Good pic's. I always thought it would be difficult to change the solenoids with the auto fitted in the normal position. It's a shame the fix didn't solve the problem.

ianda12 · Apr 19, 2014

The line pressure is a pig because it pushes down into the valve body. The others push back into it so are or seem easier. The bolts are very long so you have to jiggle the oil cooler about to get them past.

jedi · Apr 21, 2014

Are all those electrical connection's bathed in Jacto oil?

ianda12 · Apr 21, 2014

Yep, all the solenoids and the two connectors.
There not fully submerged in oil as the pan you take off is up the front of the box, but they are certainly splashed in oil and were covered in it when I removed them.

Hippo · Jun 1, 2014

ianda12 said:
Update on my gearbox that has intermittent harsh gear changes, especially 2-3 and 3-2.
Changed the 2/4 brake duty solenoid and the Line pressure solenoid.
Gear changes now even worse than before.

Any luck with this? Did the changes get betterer?

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