I'm stuck.
I pulled out the reduction gear to get to the reverse band and changed the reverse band okay, but I can't get the reduction gear to drop back in. There are too many things that need to align at the same time.
Also the instructions (from here https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/jatco-auto-box-reverse.269069/post-5224388 ) say to remove the input shaft, which I didn't. I would but I can't get it to pull out.
I could pull the drum out (that the reverse band stops) and assembly that with the reduction gear and drop it all in as one unit, but that the reverse band would be too loose to get the whole thing to drop in.

There must be a trick to this. Can anyone tell me?
 
pscan.eu said:
this morning a friend of mine had a go, and it just dropped straight in for him. hmm
Click to expand...

I sometimes find this… struggle for hours getting something to go back, then give up for the day.
Try again a day after, and all slots into place!

I put it down to my own fatigue and self-annoyance sometimes.

Glad it’s sorted 👍
 
today I got a K series, with crankshaft and the adapted flex plate, bolted up to the assembled Jatco gearbox. This was to index where to where to weld the trigger wheel on to the torque converter. The good news is that entire assembly turns over beautifully smoothly with no sticky or stiff spots. So I guess that means that the alignment is good.
 
The adapter plate
20241020_160740.JPG


mounted on a K series
20241020_160953.JPG


I had to shorten the end of the V6 starter motor. Probably it shoots into the V between the heads on a V6
20241018_165513.JPG


1.8 Rover 75 trigger wheel on a V6 torque converter waiting to be welded to the right position
20241020_161024.JPG
 
and some shots from the last couple of weeks:-

Adapter plate in earlier stage bolted to block with the fake crank (bellhousing centering tool)
20241010_182039.JPG


a bit of clearancing that I had to die grind to clear those two allen head bolts
20241010_182055.JPG


the start of the alignment process
20241010_182209.JPG
 
unless you mean the gear on the end of the starter motor? Originally it was press / splined onto the starter motor shaft but now it's welded onto the shaft.
 
pscan.eu said:
unless you mean the gear on the end of the starter motor? Originally it was press / splined onto the starter motor shaft but now it's welded onto the shaft.
Click to expand...
Doesn't it need to move out when it engages or does the whole shaft move out?
 
Talking about the gear on the starter motor end. Just checking the fitting hadn't been weakened. But welded should work. Until you want to replace the cog 😀
 
the whole shaft moves in and out. I don't think that the cog is designed to be removable from the shaft anyway. it's sort of crimped on and once removed (if even possible) I don't think I would trust it anymore.
 
I had some clearance issues with plate hitting bits that stick out of the cylinder head
20241025_140221.JPG


It's in:-
20241030_154743.JPG


20241030_164047.JPG


:):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):)

The engine is pushed over a bit more than I thought:-
20241030_164119.JPG


I had assumed that the IRD sits in the same place, irrespective of what engine / transmission, but, comparing the 1.8 drive shafts with the V6, the V6 has a longer left hand and short right hand drive shaft. So the entire IRD is further to the right with a V6 auto than it is with a 1.8.
 
oh and some major head scratching with the inductor ring for the crank sensor. The tooth pattern for a Rover 75 is actually reversed compared to a Freelander. I thought I had it wrong but after checking with Andy he confirmed that they changed the logic in the ECU firmware. It's almost as if someone in Rover send off the drawings for a flywheel but inverted it (maybe they forgot that the teeth are on the back on a PG1 flywheel) and so Rover just fixed it in software......
 
pscan.eu said:
I had some clearance issues with plate hitting bits that stick out of the cylinder head
20241025_140221.JPG


It's in:-
20241030_154743.JPG


20241030_164047.JPG


:):):):):):):):):):):):):):):):)

The engine is pushed over a bit more than I thought:-
20241030_164119.JPG


I had assumed that the IRD sits in the same place, irrespective of what engine / transmission, but, comparing the 1.8 drive shafts with the V6, the V6 has a longer left hand and short right hand drive shaft. So the entire IRD is further to the right with a V6 auto than it is with a 1.8.
Click to expand...
Well done mate, will this effect the lower tie bar position?
 
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