GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
To the best of my knowledge, you are correct, its plastic.
If I really put my thinking cap on, there's plastic that can be recycled and plastic that can't - dunno why, maybe the stuff that can't is made from Russian oil.
Not much help really, like I have been through your project, but I've enjoyed reading it.
If I really put my thinking cap on, there's plastic that can be recycled and plastic that can't - dunno why, maybe the stuff that can't is made from Russian oil.
Not much help really, like I have been through your project, but I've enjoyed reading it.
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
Dunno but if you stuff it up I have a spare one 
I may have a resolution to my gearbox rattles. We shall see.
Yesterday I went to visit an auto gearbox specialist for them to have a listen.
They were adamant that the noise sounded like something outside of the gearbox, so inside the bell housing. They said it sounded like the flex plate, or bolts into the torque converter, or something like that is rubbing.
It would explain why the noise seems to be diminishing with time, as whatever is rubbing wears away.
Then on the way home I stopped at a paint shop to get some paint for the outer sills.
On restarting the noise got a loss worse and permanent, so I cut it off. After that it wouldn't start (starter motor not turning over). I left it a few minutes and then it would start, noise gone.
So I'm thinking that I don't have enough clearance from the starter ring and the starter motor teeth, or maybe I have a sticky starter motor that's not retracting enough.
I am using a standard bell housing, torque converter, flex plate, starter ring and starter motor so you would think that this would remain all stock, but, my flex plate is now bolted to a 1.8 K series crank, not a V6. Exact positioning of the the torque flex plate and torque converter compared with the gearbox input/oil pump does depend on the thickness of the converter plate and machining of the bell housing. Maybe (probably) I have it slightly closer that it was as stock and the tolerance of starter motor to starter ring is too close.
The good news is that if true it's easy to fix. It's just removing and repairing or replacing the starter motor. Probably it could do with a spacer to bring it back a bit. If the starter motor is ruined they aren't expensive. At least I won't have to drop the IRS and gearbox again. So I'm hopeful.
Yesterday I went to visit an auto gearbox specialist for them to have a listen.
They were adamant that the noise sounded like something outside of the gearbox, so inside the bell housing. They said it sounded like the flex plate, or bolts into the torque converter, or something like that is rubbing.
It would explain why the noise seems to be diminishing with time, as whatever is rubbing wears away.
Then on the way home I stopped at a paint shop to get some paint for the outer sills.
On restarting the noise got a loss worse and permanent, so I cut it off. After that it wouldn't start (starter motor not turning over). I left it a few minutes and then it would start, noise gone.
So I'm thinking that I don't have enough clearance from the starter ring and the starter motor teeth, or maybe I have a sticky starter motor that's not retracting enough.
I am using a standard bell housing, torque converter, flex plate, starter ring and starter motor so you would think that this would remain all stock, but, my flex plate is now bolted to a 1.8 K series crank, not a V6. Exact positioning of the the torque flex plate and torque converter compared with the gearbox input/oil pump does depend on the thickness of the converter plate and machining of the bell housing. Maybe (probably) I have it slightly closer that it was as stock and the tolerance of starter motor to starter ring is too close.
The good news is that if true it's easy to fix. It's just removing and repairing or replacing the starter motor. Probably it could do with a spacer to bring it back a bit. If the starter motor is ruined they aren't expensive. At least I won't have to drop the IRS and gearbox again. So I'm hopeful.
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
That was my take on it from what you said.
Maybe the starter welding affected the bendix arrangement and, as you say, it isn't returning.
Hoping it's simple.
Maybe the starter welding affected the bendix arrangement and, as you say, it isn't returning.
Hoping it's simple.
the results are in:-
weld let go on the pinion.
I think that I have been incredibly lucky. It that had fallen off and gone round the flex plate or torque converter I think that there's a real chance that it would have smashed it's way out of the bell housing.
Everything looks okay on the flexplate / starter ring:-
I spent some time yesterday trying to drill some holes into the pinion and shaft so that I could tap and insert some grub screws, but I think it's impossible. Even brand new cobolt drills hardly scratch it.
I also tried to take the starter motor to bits but the long cross head screws are very, very stuck in there.
I spent the evening reading about brazing and soldering and I have ordered some 56% silver solder rods and flux and I think I'm going to try and solder it on. I can apparently be done with a good propane torch and the heat is low enough that it doesn't unharden hardened steel. I think that a silver solder joint that covers the entire length of the splines is going to be a lot stronger than a few mm deep weld. I just wonder if I can get it hot enough without destroying the starter motor.
Fortunately, these V6 starter motors seem to be plentiful and cheap.
weld let go on the pinion.
I think that I have been incredibly lucky. It that had fallen off and gone round the flex plate or torque converter I think that there's a real chance that it would have smashed it's way out of the bell housing.
Everything looks okay on the flexplate / starter ring:-
I spent some time yesterday trying to drill some holes into the pinion and shaft so that I could tap and insert some grub screws, but I think it's impossible. Even brand new cobolt drills hardly scratch it.
I also tried to take the starter motor to bits but the long cross head screws are very, very stuck in there.
I spent the evening reading about brazing and soldering and I have ordered some 56% silver solder rods and flux and I think I'm going to try and solder it on. I can apparently be done with a good propane torch and the heat is low enough that it doesn't unharden hardened steel. I think that a silver solder joint that covers the entire length of the splines is going to be a lot stronger than a few mm deep weld. I just wonder if I can get it hot enough without destroying the starter motor.
Fortunately, these V6 starter motors seem to be plentiful and cheap.
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
Wonder if another make of starter would.give the shorter length that you need ??
today went a bit better as I managed to dismantle the starter motor:-
so I can just heat the bit that I need to silver solder it, not the whole thing:-
the only part of this that seems plastic is the dust shield on that front bearing.
I guess I'll have to put a wet rag over it or something
I can't remove the bearing because one the pinion is fitted it wouldn't be possible to refit the bearing
so I can just heat the bit that I need to silver solder it, not the whole thing:-
the only part of this that seems plastic is the dust shield on that front bearing.
I guess I'll have to put a wet rag over it or something
I can't remove the bearing because one the pinion is fitted it wouldn't be possible to refit the bearing
