EdoubleD said:
OK thanks, I clearly need treating like a bit of an idiot if you've read the thread. When you say tapping size, what size do you mean?
Click to expand...
drill size needed for tap[ping back to a 10mm thread ie 8.5mm, i do bolts like such nearly daily ,were you have gone of track you can weld back and dress with a die grinder or drill supported by such as your stub axle
 
ah right 8.5mm drill. I'm still slightly unclear though. Are suggesting welding the hole then drilling/tapping and cleaning up the face with a dremel or equiv?

Sorry for all the questions, I really am learning here!
 
i cant really tell from the pic ,but if you elongated hole considerably you can remake with weld ,die grind back or use a 10mm drill through a guide to clean up, then use a 10mm drill to find true center of the bust stud ie it will make a sllight v drill cut ,you can then run through with a 2 or 3mm bit as a pilot then 6mm then 8.5mm
 
EdoubleD said:
Sorry, not completely. There's a 6mm hole all the way through but still some metal left around that where as the front is 8mm when I stopped
Click to expand...

And is that 6mm hole on the skewwiff? or is it on the correct ctr for the hole?

Cheers
 
EdoubleD said:
I mig welded a nut on three times at a touch over 100amps which should of got the penetration I needed and certainly heated the bolt up a fair bit but alas the welds would not hold once I put anything over about 10 - 15nm torque on it. With the current I was a bit worried about overheating the actual axle case and making it brittle, as you can see it's not in the best shape.

I've also heated it with a blow torch hoping to get it out with grips before I went down the welding route. All the other bolts were heated and while stiff came out ok. I tapped them with an m10 x 1.5 to clean them up.

Regards the drilling, yes have ended up drilling off centre but haven't quite gone through the thread. As someone said I think the best I can do here is to fit the new stub axle then use that as a guide for drilling an M10 hole, securely fasten on the other side using a nylock nut and threadlock combined with a touch of silicone to fill the mess where the paper gasket/seal will sit flush to the case

I guess we all have to learn some how and I'm definitely one of those people who learns by mistakes. I'm fairly new to working on the car but have done a number of engine related jobs which have been OK (starter, fuel lift, valve clearances, timing belt etc). This thread is probably hilarious for some people but not so much for me....such is life.
Click to expand...


hope u get it sorted out

don't worry mate , it's only friendly banter, never personal :D:D
 
Just tap it round anti clockwise with a hammer and punch or small chisel. What's left of it should come out pretty easy now. It doesn't look that bad to me?
 
EdoubleD said:
That's the plan!
Click to expand...
I wouldn't worry too much about everything being perfect in that position on the flange as it's at the top, which is the lowest load area of that flange.

Drill it and stick a nut on the other end. Could always weld the nut on the other side once you have it reassembled just so the nut is a bit more secure and you shouldn't need to get behind the hub to undo it next time.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

D90 Td5
Aftermarket Hubs
Replies
3
Views
213
D90 Td5
D90 Td5
C
Oily transmission drum brake, transfer case drain mod.
Replies
17
Views
1K
boguing
boguing
dag019
Station wagon second row seatbelt fitting
Replies
6
Views
212
dag019
dag019
Jasonmichael
Toying with the idea of buying a Discovery 4.....
Replies
6
Views
630
biketeacherdave
biketeacherdave
frostythor
My Last MOT
Replies
1
Views
531
lynall
L