crowmann

Active Member
Despite being aware that a lot of Britpart stuff was cheaply made I trawled the forums and took the view that when it came to their HD clutch plate there was nothing to fear.

Big mistake.

Despite having been fitted to a 110 that is driven with more tenderness than Miss Daisy and less than 20,000 miles the clutch plate decided to self destruct after a 400 mile potter round Norfolk in February.

When I compared it to the AP clutch plate I have finally replaced it with you can see where Britpart skimp and cheapen the design.

Summary avoid Britpart for their clutches (I appreciate most have that view on all their stuff) as they are truly **** and having now changed the clutch twice (gear box out BTW) I never want to do it again.

 
I thought they were made of cheese...you pays your money and makes your choice.......clutch is such a major job, I'd always go for the best I could afford.....I had to replace exhaust rubber pignoses for the last mot, local shoppe only had Sh@tpart, they lasted 3 months, replaced with used genuine ones, which have loads of life left and no sign of degradation.....and God only knows how old they are, they are not cheese though....

Paul
 
The details have gone back to Paddocks to be sent over to Britpart. I will leave it with them until the end of the week. Car may have only done 20,000 miles on this clutch but it was fitted in September 2009 - so I will await their comments. Ultimately the cost of this part and a refund if it ever came is a fraction of the real cost of a clutch swap.

Separately I have become far from impressed with Paddocks who sold the clutch kit so I ordered the replacement bits from Island for the first time.

Very speedy free delivery.
 
Despite being aware that a lot of Britpart stuff was cheaply made I trawled the forums and took the view that when it came to their HD clutch plate there was nothing to fear.

Big mistake.

Despite having been fitted to a 110 that is driven with more tenderness than Miss Daisy and less than 20,000 miles the clutch plate decided to self destruct after a 400 mile potter round Norfolk in February.

When I compared it to the AP clutch plate I have finally replaced it with you can see where Britpart skimp and cheapen the design.

Summary avoid Britpart for their clutches (I appreciate most have that view on all their stuff) as they are truly **** and having now changed the clutch twice (gear box out BTW) I never want to do it again.


Oh sh1te, I had one fitted about a year ago. I have done about 8K in it. Now I am wandering if I should change it as I'm planning on another Morocco trip spring next year. Shortly after it was fitted my Defender developed a vibration at certain speeds. I can't find where the problem is. It's a sort of bearing vibration like a UJ going. It's not that as I have replaced the front prop shaft for a new one. replaced front bearings. It feels like its coming from the front. Now I'm wandering if the clutch could have anything to do with the problem.
 
Oh sh1te, I had one fitted about a year ago. I have done about 8K in it. Now I am wandering if I should change it as I'm planning on another Morocco trip spring next year. Shortly after it was fitted my Defender developed a vibration at certain speeds. I can't find where the problem is. It's a sort of bearing vibration like a UJ going. It's not that as I have replaced the front prop shaft for a new one. replaced front bearings. It feels like its coming from the front. Now I'm wandering if the clutch could have anything to do with the problem.

Aha, that could be the solution to the problem on the other thread. Personally, I'd put a new clutch in, just in case it goes wrong somewhere far away from tools and spare parts. Preferably a couple of months before the trip so you can let it settle in and see if there are any teething troubles.
 
I fitted one a year and a half ago. I do 500 miles a week including towing my twin axle Ifor trailer. It's been fine so far but if it does turn to cheese I've had my money's worth. Would I fit another one...... Probably not "just in case" lol
 
Previous owner of my 300tdi installed this two years ago. Barbados is small so not much distance driving or towing, however I am hearing a slight metallic sound when I depress the clutch some times. Since I have the entire front of the Landy out, I am now thinking that I should pull the engine out, change the rear seals and change the clutch.

The mechanic the last owner had did not change the rear seal it seems, no trace of the purchase from the local suppliers and its leaking. He was bragging that it had a Britpart HD clutch.
 
Previous owner of my 300tdi installed this two years ago. Barbados is small so not much distance driving or towing, however I am hearing a slight metallic sound when I depress the clutch some times. Since I have the entire front of the Landy out, I am now thinking that I should pull the engine out, change the rear seals and change the clutch.

The mechanic the last owner had did not change the rear seal it seems, no trace of the purchase from the local suppliers and its leaking. He was bragging that it had a Britpart HD clutch.

if it's leaking then it's worthwhile. the clutch noise could be just chatter, esp on hd one.

remember britpart can supply different brands, so you might have a good make on.

re the dowty rear crank seal, get a genuine or turner do a better one iirc.. not sure the cost of postage to you though :)
 
if it's leaking then it's worthwhile. the clutch noise could be just chatter, esp on hd one.

remember britpart can supply different brands, so you might have a good make on.

re the dowty rear crank seal, get a genuine or turner do a better one iirc.. not sure the cost of postage to you though :)

Trax everything here is triple in cost mate, everything. I don't go cheap on stuff though. Since I have the front out, rad and all, I might just pul the engine.

I intend to rebuild the engine soon too though it's not burning oil or anything as yet but still close to 250, 000 km. I will get another engine and use that while the original in there now is rebuilt.

I have not driven it enough to determine the noise, bought it and went straight to stripping it and fixing it.

Cheers mate.
 
The failed clutch always chattered at tick over - which was annoying but a known issue, for the few weeks before it self destructed it started making a 'tinkling' metallic sound that had me beat as to the source (paranoid - I thought little ends) but has now entirely gone with the new clutch (as has the chatter - yaay!).

So in this case I reckon it was failing for around a month or so before it packed up.

My advice (unless you enjoy taking gearboxes off) buy Borg and Beck or AP. Not keen on Valeo.
 
Britpart don't make anything, they are just a distributor. I wonder who manufactures their HD clutch kits?
Hopefully as this was bought back in 2009 they may have improved them by now, if enough people complained.
 
It never ceases to amaze me how many people still fit Britpart components. I am not trying to be obnoxious but no one ever comes on this forum or indeed any other forum speaking highly of Britpart.

The only Britpart stuff that is worth buying has 'G' on the end - genuine part in a Britpart bag!

It annoys me that people on this forum buy Britpart stuff in good faith and it just comes back to bite them. I realise that people cannot always always afford better than Britpart or OEM parts but I think given it will often end up costing them double or more to fix the issue its really worth holding off if you can.
 
Britpart don't make anything, they are just a distributor. I wonder who manufactures their HD clutch kits?
Hopefully as this was bought back in 2009 they may have improved them by now, if enough people complained.

A number of years ago I was in discussion with a company in India who were going to make some LR parts for me - long story.

They basically wanted 1 of each of the items I wanted and they would give me a price to manufacture them by the pallet load. One of the items was a clutch plate.

I got the specification of the plate back from them and the price, it was about 700Rs - £7. By the time I upgraded the specification to a higher gauge and grade steel, and upgraded the friction material to Aramid fibre copper buttons etc the cost was not worth it any more - I would have been importing a great product but would have struggled to sell it. The Britpart buyers would still buy Britpart as it would have been cheap, and the people who buy AP, LUK , Borg&Beck etc would have been difficult to convince this product at a little less was actually better.
 
It never ceases to amaze me how many people still fit Britpart components. I am not trying to be obnoxious but no one ever comes on this forum or indeed any other forum speaking highly of Britpart.

The only Britpart stuff that is worth buying has 'G' on the end - genuine part in a Britpart bag!

It annoys me that people on this forum buy Britpart stuff in good faith and it just comes back to bite them. I realise that people cannot always always afford better than Britpart or OEM parts but I think given it will often end up costing them double or more to fix the issue its really worth holding off if you can.

I have bought a lot of Britpart stuff that's been OK, but it's all been body items.

Britpart side runners, techno seat base, gear knob, headlamp surrounds, anti roll bar kit, lamp guards, rear step, door card, lock barrel set, rear door lock, rear door trim panel, floor mats, air intake covers all absolutely fine, and a fraction of the LR price. For instance, Britpart air intake covers £2.99. LR dealer £22.
Britpart side runners £200. LR dealer £400. Techno cloth seat base? Britpart £35.....LR dealer £270!!

I wish Britpart did TD5 rev counters. LR want £285+VAT for an item that probably comes out of China at twenty quid.
 
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Still waiting for my clutch plate from Panaf. Should be here tomorrow AM. If it turns out to be a Britpart, I'm off up the road to paddocks for a proper one!!
 

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