Dr_evil said:

I work at a pub as it is so I can probably get cheap gas from there


Would you rate that Clarke highly then or is it not going to have a decent life span with regular use as I assume my series will need repairs every so often and I'll probably use it fo do stuff like fabricate a bumper once I'm good

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waldershelf said:

I had a clarke minimig 100e for the best part of 20 years with fairly regular use before it gave up the ghost. 100 amps is not really enough for chassis repairs but it can be done. When I replaced it I bought another clarke, this time a 150 amp gas/gasless one which is more than powerful enough for chassis welding. Don't let people put you off clarke welders they are fine for people like us that just do stuff at home, although I might have a different opinion if I was welding every day for a living. As recommended by others go with the gas option, it works out cheaper and produces neater welds.

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bungy said:

Another thing to consider and will help to improve your results will be to use an automatic mask. Being able to see what you are doing will make a massive difference.
Neiko Solar-Powered Auto Darkening MIG/TIG Welding Helmet ANSI Approved Lens 53814A

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Dr_evil said:

Ahhh well this is a variable 30 - 150 amp so it should be perfect

I dont need a £500 welder and I don't have the funds for it as I've just bought the series, this is just for some small repairs for this years MOT, next year I should hopefully be able to afford a galvy

What thickness of steel and wire do you use for chassis repairs ?

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waldershelf said:

For chassis repairs 3mm will do for most areas, 5mm for high stress areas. I generally use 0.8mm wire all the time, I only use 0.6mm for thin stuff like normal car body panels.

When you do your chassis repairs don't be tempted to plate over the rotten areas, best practice is to cut out the rot back to solid metal and weld in new material.

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gazdav said:

As a time served welder fabricator befor joining the army. Go with mig with gas, it is easer to learn and control. The gas removes O2 from the weld so There is no oxidisation of the weld. However befor welding the area to be welded as well as the earth clamp must be as clean as possable so grind back to metal befor starting.

Stick is harder to learn but can give better results. Don't let it put you off there are lots of short welding courses out there that can teach you both In a few weeks but as a skill it can take years to master.

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