motorhead

New Member
Hi,

I'm getting my rotten floor sorted. I was thinking, after the welding is done, the rust is bound to return?

Are there any measures? I've seen Hammerite paint advertised claiming that it turns rust into something... I don't know how much of it is fluff and how much truth?

Has anyone tried it? Maybe I should paint the floor with it and when it dries out, do some tar on top of the paint?
 
kurust is the product it treats rust turning it black and seals for you then to top coat they also used to do a product that was a primer rust eater call rustbeater.It was available but not 100% but think ther phasing it out.Paint then tar could end up in a gooey mess as solvent and tar will react.dulux have a new range not cheap but a good product metalshield it comes in gloss or satin finish with two diff primers one for ferous metals and one for aluminium and new galv.hammerite isnt as good as it used to be the only advantage is it primes u/coats and top coats all in one hope this helps .rob
 
Hi,

I'm getting my rotten floor sorted. I was thinking, after the welding is done, the rust is bound to return?

Are there any measures? I've seen Hammerite paint advertised claiming that it turns rust into something... I don't know how much of it is fluff and how much truth?

Has anyone tried it? Maybe I should paint the floor with it and when it dries out, do some tar on top of the paint?

Mix some grease and oil and smear it all over the bits you dont want to rust...they wont rust:)
 
IMO dont't use paint as after it sets hard the rust will go on eating yer metal and you just can't see it doing its dirty work. Use waxolyl and oil and grease to keep the moisture out.
 
i use it all the time and in my experience painting chassis,gearboxes ,bare metal is the best ive used better than chasis black,and does help with rust
 
To protect the chassis and heavier parts I use old EP 90 oil from the trans box and diffs - works a treat and completely free. Doesn't drip either and you can just slap more over it.
 
I've just used Hammerite Underbody Seal to do my Discovery today,a bit messy,but its thick so doesn't drip although brushes on very easily.It doesn't dry 'hard',stays flexible and looks pretty tidy too!
 
Dunno about Hammerite, but am planning to coat the underbody with Motip Bitumen. This comes in spray (0,5 - 1 ltr) and in 2,5 litre buckets for use with brush. The bitumen stays flexible, is however not suited for overpainting. Kind of oldfashioned product therefore however proven.
 

Similar threads