Please have patience when you get your Nanocom and follow the registration process properly.
But glad to hear it took the EKA finally.
J
I have to say that I returned from almost 2 months working overseas to find my battery flat and that after recharging and refitting it my car wouldn't start. I tried for almost 2 days to enter the EKA access code, I even looked at buying a Nanocom (too expensive), phoned several local independents (couldn't help) and was on the verge of giving up, the sun was setting on the second day by now, I tried the EKA code again and noticed the LED in the centre of the dash flashing a little differently. There was a clunk and everything opened, put the key in ignition and she started, hasn't missed a beat since.
Wazzajnr
Well-Known Member
Just to avoid confusion, you can't.
I've just tried it.
Engine disabled message on dash means you CANNOT disable eka and immobiliser.
Once eka has been entered via door switches or nanocom then you can disable the eka and alarm.
I've just videoed it to prove it whilst trying to get mine up and running for Doo.
Good to know. Yours is Thor so got to higher than PAM v36.
tyke100
Active Member
nanocom came yesterday.
my becm is in unlocked state according to it.
i can access all parts of the car and check for faultcodes and / or set new values.
i figured the values of one of the front abs sensors are very low so set both to the same and ... oops. no more abs noise while hard stopping while the wheels going either side. unlike before.
i can disable alarm immobiliser and even eka access.
so, yes only for that it was worth it but i may get the other upgrades due time as i had a chat with some friends around here which owning garages. and they would pay quiet a lot if i be able to read landrover fault codes and can do a couple things on the vehicle with it.
so it would make it worthwhile to make the money back. // but thats sometimes.
but still earning what i can do with it how it works and stuff. although i need to order such a sd card for it too.
figured out i should have a heated windscreen but this was replaced before i bought the car and is not heated. ( that is the booklet symbol on the hevoc screen )
my becm is in unlocked state according to it.
i can access all parts of the car and check for faultcodes and / or set new values.
i figured the values of one of the front abs sensors are very low so set both to the same and ... oops. no more abs noise while hard stopping while the wheels going either side. unlike before.
i can disable alarm immobiliser and even eka access.
so, yes only for that it was worth it but i may get the other upgrades due time as i had a chat with some friends around here which owning garages. and they would pay quiet a lot if i be able to read landrover fault codes and can do a couple things on the vehicle with it.
so it would make it worthwhile to make the money back. // but thats sometimes.
but still earning what i can do with it how it works and stuff. although i need to order such a sd card for it too.
figured out i should have a heated windscreen but this was replaced before i bought the car and is not heated. ( that is the booklet symbol on the hevoc screen )
brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
So you have found why you didn't like the abs, I would say leave it as it is and see how you get on with the brakes before trying to disable the system , it normally is very good.
tyke100
Active Member
I was going to put a switch on gor the option.
I didnt want it disable it complete.
On the first reading it told.me pump failure or so.
And.airgap to high
Pressed the relevant sensor back and gave a bit a tap
Both messages gone.
Test drove.
No faults.
And tis blend motor left side apparently has a positive shortcut.
But thats another time.
Cant be bothered taking the dash apart before going on holiday. Lol.
She has to accept os only blowing hot on her side.
I didnt want it disable it complete.
On the first reading it told.me pump failure or so.
And.airgap to high
Pressed the relevant sensor back and gave a bit a tap
Both messages gone.
Test drove.
No faults.
And tis blend motor left side apparently has a positive shortcut.
But thats another time.
Cant be bothered taking the dash apart before going on holiday. Lol.
She has to accept os only blowing hot on her side.
Sometimes putting temperature settings at extremes for a few minutes of each is enough to free up blend motors. LOW for a bit, then HIGH, then LOW ...
So ABS sensor just needed pushing in. Did no-one suggest that before?
tyke100
Active Member
Done the temp settings
Comes straight back with failure shortcut positive circuit.
To the sensors. They just been done.
And still done on the slightest rubbel there own thing.
I thought just push them in.
Nothing in any handbook says tap them with a hammer once they in.
tyke100
Active Member
I run them individually.
The rlaps.work. is just not going to cold on the left side.
I do the calibration later.
If it dosnt work we take it out when I'm back from holiday and my friend will try yo see if he can fix it.
Common problem is carbon dust from brushes shorting armatuer. Strip motor and clean sometimes is all that is needed.
tyke100
Active Member
Yes that is what he said.
I have no idea neither the patience for fiddling with those little things. Lol.
He said he want to do it. So i let him.
