Guess I have to.
I am going nowhere.
Maybe I know what I'm looking for if I have a replacement one.
I cant see anything in this door what points to a switch.
( well. I never had to deal with such stuff )
Still need to find a dealer confirm its the right code..
I start thinking it is not the right eka.

Especially on this paper I had with it.
The radio code is the same as the eka apparently.
 
tyke100 said:
Guess I have to.
I am going nowhere.
Maybe I know what I'm looking for if I have a replacement one.
I cant see anything in this door what points to a switch.
( well. I never had to deal with such stuff )
Still need to find a dealer confirm its the right code..
I start thinking it is not the right eka.

Especially on this paper I had with it.
The radio code is the same as the eka apparently.
Click to expand...
When you try to enter the EKA, you should see some sign that the BECM is seeing you key turns even if it's the wrong code, indicator flash or such like, I can never remember.
 
Datatek said:
When you try to enter the EKA, you should see some sign that the BECM is seeing you key turns even if it's the wrong code, indicator flash or such like, I can never remember.
Click to expand...


Saying this. When I try to initialize the code.
The 4 turns to the left.
The indicators flashing.
When I put the code in.
No indicators.
Not outside and not in the dash.
When I do the final step unlock and try to start.
Disabled message.

When I close the door and lock it with the key. The rear door seems to lock to. Even it wasn't open.
But I have loads of noise around where the car parks so I can't really tell.

The central locking dosnt engage and the imobiliser.dos not turn off.

So I hope i get the answer im hoping and the becm allow to put the eka manuel with a nancom in and disable the whole alarm and immobiliser.

And evtl get some.switches or whatever the cause is sorted in time.

I know the v36 or so becm can be manipulated with nancom no matter what.
I have a 35. So hopefully.
 
tyke100 said:
I cant see anything in this door what points to a switch
Click to expand...

They are on the lock.

tyke100 said:
Still need to find a dealer confirm its the right code..
Click to expand...

Good idea, do you get any beeps ,indicators or light on dash when entering?

tyke100 said:
The radio code is the same as the eka apparently.
Click to expand...

Think that is Not impossible but unlikely.


Good luck you will get it sorted and get to trust it 1 day:) You will honest:D

J

Edit just read you last post sounds like wrong EKA to me.
 
tyke100 said:
I just hope i didn't buy this nanocom and.it dont solve the problem.
Click to expand...

If you have the wrong EKA code then nothing will help except replace BECM for a known one. Unless Marty or Rick have a way of extracting it from the BECM.

Sometimes opening the window and moving the sill lock button as you turn the key helps. That's what Rick recommends anyway.

There are 3 microswitches on the bottom of the lock actuator assembly. All 3 must work to enter the BECM. Like Marjon, I would be very surprised if it is the same as the radio key. Normally it is in with the manual.
 
Grrrrrr said:
If you have the wrong EKA code then nothing will help except replace BECM for a known one. Unless Marty or Rick have a way of extracting it from the BECM.

Sometimes opening the window and moving the sill lock button as you turn the key helps. That's what Rick recommends anyway.
Click to expand...
Anything can be done with Faultmate and the 035 module:cool:
 
@tyke100 first step is to test the door latch switches. If these are not working properly, no EKA will work regardless of what you enter.

If the switches test ok, second step is to take your V5C & Photo ID to nearest LR Dealer, and ask then what the correct EKA should be. They can look it up from the V5C data. If the BECM is original and not corrupted, then this EKA should work.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Couldn't remember if the EKA could be extracted.

Rick or Marty job then.
Click to expand...

I read that as 'Rick and Morty' ... I need to get out more ... :oops::cool:

iu
 
Datatek said:
Anything can be done with Faultmate and the 035 module:cool:
Click to expand...

is that not the nanocom ?
i ordered defo the nanocom because of the price and it comes with the full p38 stuff on it, like becm, suspension hevac etc pp.
at least that what i been told from the email.
or is faultmate and this 35 something else?
 
tyke100 said:
is that not the nanocom ?
i ordered defo the nanocom because of the price and it comes with the full p38 stuff on it, like becm, suspension hevac etc pp.
at least that what i been told from the email.
or is faultmate and this 35 something else?
Click to expand...
Same company, but Faultmate is different to Nanocom and seriously expensive. Just the 035 direct access software module costs about double the price of the Nanocom
 
If you keep getting nowhere and just "poking & hoping" you run the risk of putting your BeCM into "Locked" status and then your troubles will be magnified because the Nanocom won't help you then.
If the doorlock switches are fubar'd you need the drivers lock switchpack replaced (get a refurbed one from @martyuk ) Or now you have a Nanocom arriving just switch off all immobilisation and EKA.
 
Well I've been in your situation so I know your agony.first go to dealers with relevant paperwork and get the eka code. when you have that, disconnect the battery as per manual, i.e. slacken earth lead, switch on ignition, switch off and remove earth lead within 17 seconds.remove positive lead and touch to earth lead.reconnect battery.seeing you have door card off get someone to enter the eka code whilst you move the arm on the lock as well. Make sure your assistant is up to speed as to how to enter the code correctly. This will negate any excessive free play in the lock mechanism as was my problem.open the door after two attempts and then you will get further attempts without getting lockout. I don't think nanocom can disable anything when it's in alarmed or lockout state but you should be able to enter the CORRECT eka with it.good luck.once you get your nanocom DONT change anything until you ,a make a note of the original settings and b, know what you are doing .
 
tomcat59alan said:
Well I've been in your situation so I know your agony.first go to dealers with relevant paperwork and get the eka code. when you have that, disconnect the battery as per manual, i.e. slacken earth lead, switch on ignition, switch off and remove earth lead within 17 seconds.remove positive lead and touch to earth lead.reconnect battery.seeing you have door card off get someone to enter the eka code whilst you move the arm on the lock as well. Make sure your assistant is up to speed as to how to enter the code correctly. This will negate any excessive free play in the lock mechanism as was my problem.open the door after two attempts and then you will get further attempts without getting lockout. I don't think nanocom can disable anything when it's in alarmed or lockout state but you should be able to enter the CORRECT eka with it.good luck.once you get your nanocom DONT change anything until you ,a make a note of the original settings and b, know what you are doing .
Click to expand...
The trouble is Alan that if some joker has swapped out the BECM, the EKA ode from the dealer may not help:eek:
 
brianp38dse said:
Here is marty`s door lock test sheet
Click to expand...
My lock checked out Brian, ,lot of play in the end of the key barrel so the rod wasn't getting full movement. I got the door card off,with difficulty and a little damage as the door was locked closed. I was then able to "help" the rod movement. The battery lead was an idea put forward by @DanClarke it worked for him and possibly for me. I was in a position that I would try anything. Thanks Dan.
 
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