Ian Maycock
Well-Known Member
Enough to do all the flaps in the heater box. Is this the type of stuff you were on about ? As this was what I was gonna use, its about 5mm thick
cheers Ian
cheers Ian
Paul Groome
New Member
Il put a photo on this weekend. Couldn't get a better set up. It's roasting in there now
Flossie
Well-Known Member
Yes that's the stuff.
I also remember having to tweak the flaps in the lower dash because they are poorly designed and also the thicker foam caused issues with them not closing fully, all is easy to get round though !
I used the mat for the heater to bulkhead seal too, just glued layers together to increase thickness. You don't want precious air going anywhere but through the matrix, not either side of it or out the top (where the pipes exit) or through rot holes or seams in the box itself.
Check and free off any stiff flap pivots (Inc lower dash ones) adjust the cables correctly and all will be well.
I had the worst heaterbox ever, rusted out and seized but I sandblasted the rust away, let in new steel, freed off everything, resealed everything, new cables and matrix and its pretty good tbh.
Oh, just remembered.... The long thin cover that you remove to access the lower dash flaps also needs sealing with foam and make sure the rubber demister tubes and flexi hoses are all good.
Ian Maycock
Well-Known Member
Cheers Flossie heater box in good nick only surface rust cleaned it up and painted it with stone chip, took one of the panels off to clean the old foam and glue off the flaps. Think I may seal all the inside with marine bond that should stop any air escaping, the dash will be done later haven't got to that stage in the rebuild yet
cheers all Ian
cheers all Ian
