Take drag link off and have a good look at it. If its causing the wheel to be half a turn out you should see the bend easily enough
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Sounds mad but mine had a smash & replaced the bonet & front panel 25years ago
(I had no brakes & rear ended some pickuo)
Not had any problems with chassis or axles
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
There is a bracket that attaches to the front of the diff and the drag link goes through it
hawky666
Well-Known Member
engineer makes no ref to chassis on report, simply stated couldnt assess further without extra clearence from insurers and they immediately wrote off
julianf
Well-Known Member
I bent the track rod just by hitting a curb and it sent the wheels all over the place. But it was a cheap britpart one.
If he's fitted HD stuff (depending on how HD that actually is) then I guess something else would break first.
I get mixed up with the names of the steering components but, I think, most of the rods would cause both wheels to go out of alignment IF the steering wheel was centered.
Whilst, it seems, that, with the wheel central, only one road wheel is on the wonk. Which doesn't seem possible with steering rods? I guess it might be if multiple rods have bent to compensate, but just one going would always offset both wheels if the steering was centered, wouldn't it?
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Thought if it was a non fault claim the insurance should repair it?
hawky666
Well-Known Member
this was all on it and hasnt been changed so will have to check in morning
hawky666
Well-Known Member
they said that without a defined issue simply changing the axle and associated parts would be over 9k so not worth it
Costed estimate is done before a car is written off.
The estimate is then submitted to insurance company and an engineer gets involved if needed.
Approved repairer can usually self authorise.
Repairers are known to write off a job if they don't want it.
Turboman
Mab An Gov
The drag link between the front wheels is pretty easy to bend. I bent the one on my Ninety by driving into a concrete block at about 2 mph. The bloody thing was so low down I didn't see it over the bonnet.
hawky666
Well-Known Member
Attachments
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Now have you a photo of the bar behind?
Links the 2 wheels up
And bottom of diff
Links the 2 wheels up
And bottom of diff
hawky666
Well-Known Member
thats what i feel has happened. they were scared of it tbh
hawky666
Well-Known Member
i only have stock pics of re buid at the moment.. but this tracking bar ahs had a straight edge put against its full length all round and no sign of any bend.
You don't have to rush to make a decision. It's your truck, you can have it repaired by whoever you want and intitled to more than one estimate.
Besides your insurance company should be instructing the other person's insurance company to pay for it. Tell them you want it repaired, it was there fault.
What is your truck valued at?
hawky666
Well-Known Member
its complicated.. and i did ok out of it.. just have to decide if worth doing and keeping on top of that with a near 6k buy back.
Turboman
Mab An Gov
That is entirely possible. A lot of garages don't want to work on old Land Rovers now.
Much easier money in servicing, and stuff you can put an OBD reader on than crash repairs.
julianf
Well-Known Member
Look at it this way, (and again, I don't know the numbers)
Say you got a 10k payout and the buy back is 6k, 4k would be enough to swap the chassis again, depending on diy or paying.
But then would the car be 10k as a cat s?
If you got a 15k payout, then 4k would be enough to do the chassis again if need be, and then you have a 15k car for 10k. But then the cat s thing again.
I don't know your numbers nor market price for fancy 90s, but you do know the numbers, so can you just look at worst case and see if the sums make sense? Then, if it's not "worst case" you're doing well?
That would seem easier to work out than what's wrong with it (with any real certainty) right now?
Say you got a 10k payout and the buy back is 6k, 4k would be enough to swap the chassis again, depending on diy or paying.
But then would the car be 10k as a cat s?
If you got a 15k payout, then 4k would be enough to do the chassis again if need be, and then you have a 15k car for 10k. But then the cat s thing again.
I don't know your numbers nor market price for fancy 90s, but you do know the numbers, so can you just look at worst case and see if the sums make sense? Then, if it's not "worst case" you're doing well?
That would seem easier to work out than what's wrong with it (with any real certainty) right now?
