I need you gurus help if possible!

I have a D2 15p TD5, suspected i ran out of fuel. towed to the fuel station and put £15 of diesel in, run priming sequence around 10 times, no joy.

fitted a new fuel filter housing as i heard these can go faulty and i needed a new fuel filter anyway, primed again several times. still nothing. charged up battery for a week, again nothing

code read ecu, no fault codes, checked crank sensor and found it to be broken, replaced with a new one and was optimistic, boost pack used to help start, and nothing. i have 3.5bar of fuel pressure at the regulator also but my car is stuck outside my house and i cant afford to take it to a garage. is there any checks i can do next that may shed some light on whats happening or not happening?

thanks all
 
What made you think this?
Could it not be an electrical fault instead?
What sort of diagnostic did you use?

It was an autologic diagnostic machine, I suspected low fuel as my gauge was low and I was on my way to the fuel station

Oh and welcome to the forum.
It might be an idea to go to the Introduce Yourself thing and give it a go.
All the best
Stan:)
 
I have had poor starting first thing for a little while!? Is that leading to somewhere?
commonly td5s suffer injector washers letting a little gas into the injector rail , so often a td5 will need the injector washers and o rings, the air bleed valve in filter housing(rear outer connector)or which is another common failing or all 3
 
commonly td5s suffer injector washers letting a little gas into the injector rail , so often a td5 will need the injector washers and o rings, the air bleed valve in filter housing(rear outer connector)or which is another common failing or all 3

So as I have replaced the filter housing already, is there a way of checking the injector washers and seals or is it a case of just replace them?
 
I'm sure you meant 4 BAR there. I'd be inclined to say pump probably on it's way, washers being duff can help speed it along as you get combustion gasses in the fuel lines. Air bleed can quickly get nadgered by it as can the actual regulator on the FPR. All stuff already said.

Would've though suboptimal pressure would only affect top end performance, and the washers etc starting and even idle balance if it can get started.
 
With the winky emoji I cannot tell if this is a rhetorical question or a genuine one.

4 PSI is normal for the record. So it sounds like the pump is failing to me.
No Si, it's a genuine question cos as an amateur I am always trying to learn, so i will ask questions whose answer, to others, is obvious, hence the "naively" comment, and the winky emoji, cos i know I am always doing this!
Now i know why it is being assumed the pump may be failing!
Ta mate!:):)
 
So did the engine stop suddenly while it was running or it just refused to start just like that ? is it manual or auto ? is the new crank sensor branded or aftermarket ?
 
Not sure why there would be no fault codes if the CPS was buggered.
It happens quite often in reality that if it suddenly stops or doesnt start at all the ECU has not enough time to identify a code for the CPS, it needs few seconds for the fault to occur while the engine is running. If you unplug the CPS then crank it or unplug it while the engine is running as to suddenly stop there will be no code, i've tried that myself
 
So did the engine stop suddenly while it was running or it just refused to start just like that ? is it manual or auto ? is the new crank sensor branded or aftermarket ?

Engine stopped halfway home 2 weeks before Christmas was all I needed was driving along a 50 road and just cut out, managed to roll it into a layby
 

Similar threads