Danyou · Jul 20, 2018

Just bought this 1.8 Kalahari for a parts car/brake(before the wife knows what I’m up to)The seller thought it needed a vcu but after driving it home it doesn’t feel like that or sound like the bearings, full lock turns are ok but will do the wheel up test tomorrow to be sure.There is a few things I have found wrong a slight rumble at low speeds/slowing down and hard right hand turns,which is what the seller must have been going on about,oil leak that looks like it’s coming from the top right hand side of the engine,rear window won’t go right up looks like the channel is blocked that it slips up and a exhaust leak the back box and mid section look new. Drove really well no white gunk in oil,coolant level is good very clean body work and a few factory extras folding mirrors,cup holders etc and a pile of receipts all for mot repairs for what it failed on and advisory’s and a full head gasket repair someone has spent a small fortune on it.Im not to sure what I’m going to do with the car yet depends on what the underside looks like and what the noise is,any suggestions on what to look at for the noise?

GrumpyGel · Jul 20, 2018

You could check the drivers front drive shaft where it goes into the IRD - might be the carrier bearing for it is starting to collapse - often caused by CV failure.

Danyou · Jul 20, 2018

GrumpyGel said:
You could check the drivers front drive shaft where it goes into the IRD - might be the carrier bearing for it is starting to collapse - often caused by CV failure.

Going to have a good poke/pull about underneath tomorrow just been reading about sub frame bolts, diff mounts and drive shafts and I think the oil leak is coming from the front crankshaft oil seal but will have to give it a clean down to be sure,but I know nothing about these engines looks like a cover/part is missing from there.

Danyou · Jul 21, 2018

Rear banging noise is been caused by the rear diff mount lots of play in it, window cable snapped on rear door,I think the oil leak is from the cam shaft seal if someone can confirm off that picture it would be much appreciated,auto folding mirrors one sounds like a machine gun only comes in half way.Now the good looks like it’s had a new vcu (which has tested alright)on looking at the rest of the underside.front and rear tyres match didn’t know they done 17 inch wheels in that style all cv boots and drop links look like new and brake pipes have been changed front to back.she has made a good case to be saved I think.

Alibro · Jul 21, 2018

Danyou said:
Rear banging noise is been caused by the rear diff mount lots of play in it, window cable snapped on rear door,I think the oil leak is from the cam shaft seal if someone can confirm off that picture it would be much appreciated,auto folding mirrors one sounds like a machine gun only comes in half way.Now the good looks like it’s had a new vcu (which has tested alright)on looking at the rest of the underside.front and rear tyres match didn’t know they done 17 inch wheels in that style all cv boots and drop links look like new and brake pipes have been changed front to back.she has made a good case to be saved I think.

I was going to suggest camshaft seal as it's pretty common.
It's very hard to tell if a VCU is new as they hold up really well. It's possible a fairly low mileage K series will have a good VCU.
Sounds like some simple cheap fixes will save it. Nice one.

Danyou · Jul 21, 2018

She’s got 94 or 93k on her,do you think it looks like the camshaft seal?is there meant to be something covering it?picked up a rear window mechanism,folding mirrors,a rear badge and I’m going to put the parcel shelf I have in her.Got a mono gear knob out of an mg and mg rear view mirror with the lights for 50 quid.

Alibro · Jul 21, 2018

Danyou said:
She’s got 94 or 93k on her,do you think it looks like the camshaft seal?is there meant to be something covering it?picked up a rear window mechanism,folding mirrors,a rear badge and I’m going to put the parcel shelf I have in her.Got a mono gear knob out of an mg and mg rear view mirror with the lights for 50 quid.

I just replied to another thread where the camshaft seal is leaking and it leaked on mine so it's a likely culprit.
Mine wasn't covered either which I was surprised about. I suspect the cover was lost or broken when the HG was done.

Nodge68 · Jul 22, 2018

Danyou said:
is there meant to be something covering it?

There's a small metal plate that it supposed to be covering the exhaust cam end. It's not oil tight and it purely there to stop the cam being visible and getting touched while the engine is running.

Alibro said:
the camshaft seal is leaking and it leaked on mine so it's a likely culprit.
Mine wasn't covered either which I was surprised about. I suspect the cover was lost or broken when the HG was done.

The seals do fail, especially after a head rebuild, probably due to incorrect fitting of the seal. Lots of repairers put the seals on the cam ends before assembling the cam ladder. This is incorrect as the seal doesn't fit square to the shaft and may get pinched by the ladder as it's clamped down. The seal should be inserted from the ends in the normal way, after the cam ladder is bolted to the head.

Danyou · Jul 22, 2018

Nodge68 said:
There's a small metal plate that it supposed to be covering the exhaust cam end. It's not oil tight and it purely there to stop the cam being visible and getting touched while the engine is running.

The seals do fail, especially after a head rebuild, probably due to incorrect fitting of the seal. Lots of repairers put the seals on the cam ends before assembling the cam ladder. This is incorrect as the seal doesn't fit square to the shaft and may get pinched by the ladder as it's clamped down. The seal should be inserted from the ends in the normal way, after the cam ladder is bolted to the head.

Cheers I will get the seal and see if I can find or make a cover,any tips on fishing the old one out?

Danyou · Jul 22, 2018

good mornings work today managed to get the new rear window mechanism fitted, a rear badge that is much better condition,drivers side folding mirror fitted and a quick clean and polish and black plastics treated, only thing that’s really bugging me is the trim the rear glass slides up into is corroded on both ends can that trim be replaced?

Colthebrummie · Jul 22, 2018

The vehicle looks in good nick from the pics you've posted, better than mine. I have the same except mine is the Serengeti, same colour but some of the lacquer is peeling especially on the bonnet.

Col

Danyou · Jul 22, 2018

Colthebrummie said:
The vehicle looks in good nick from the pics you've posted, better than mine. I have the same except mine is the Serengeti, same colour but some of the lacquer is peeling especially on the bonnet.

Col

There’s a little bit of lacquer peel on the roof where the roof bars fit but the rest is in in good condition which is where my problem has come from I wanted it to brake up but couldn’t bring myself to it after seeing the condition and someone has spent a fortune on the car.would be a shame only needs a diff mount,camshaft seal,rear window mechanism and the folding mirror needed sorting but I fell lucky found a high spec Freelander in the scrap yard round the corner £50 quid for the mechanism which looks new no rust or anything on the wires,folding mirror,mg rear view mirror and mono mg gear knob

Danyou · Jul 28, 2018

Rear diff bushes replaced what a ball ache the front one is,oil change and filter.Car is running and driving fine so think I will put her up for sale.

Danyou · Aug 9, 2018

Been slacking with getting the car ready to give it to my father in law so I gave it a basic service and noticed a nice metallic shade to the thick old oil and there was a thick silver metallic goo on the camshaft sensor and a oil puddle around one spark plug. The car which was running alright is now hesitated under acceleration and is very tappy so looks like it’s going to be split for spares which is a shame,unless there’s something simple I’m over looking?

Nodge68 · Aug 10, 2018

Danyou said:
The car which was running alright is now hesitated under acceleration and is very tappy so looks like it’s going to be split for spares which is a shame,unless there’s something simple I’m over looking?

Has it had a replacement HG? If so then I suspect that RTV sealer has been used for the cam ladder. Using RTV can block the oil ways which reduces oil feed to the cam bearings.
It's relatively easy to strip it down and use the correct aerobic sealer instead.

Danyou · Aug 10, 2018

Yeah the HG was done in 2017 I think judging by the oil that came out it’s was like a metallic tercel changed it with 10w40 and had the cam seals replaced and timing belt(oil was changed before and hesitation was there but not as bad)
Think I’m going to break her which is a shame as I love the colour and but my lack of mechanical knowledge and the fact there’s a few parts I need off her and hopefully a few others can use.

Nodge68 · Aug 10, 2018

Danyou said:
Think I’m going to break her which is a shame as I love the colour and but my lack of mechanical knowledge and the fact there’s a few parts I need off her and hopefully a few others can use.

Seems a shame to break it, for something that could be nothing. It's not uncommon to see a small amount of minute particles in the oil if it's well overdue a change. There's always going to be an amount of metal to metal contact, which, is why an engine wears out. If the oil change was long overdue, or if poor quality oil has been used, then particles are often visible. Me I'd change the oil and just use it. If it goes bang, then break it.

Danyou · Aug 10, 2018

I would run it and see if it brakes but I literally do around 3k a year in the silver one so couldn’t justify having two on the road.I understand a little bit in the oil is ok/common in older cars,but it was when he showed me the end of the cam sensor it was like a metallic paste?ij the timing belt was a out a tooth or so would cause the hesitation? I’m assuming it would,but I did pay for that to be changed along with the cam seals.If know ones interested over the weekend I will get some thicker oil and I’m assuming the timing marks should all line up?im not to concerned about that as the lad runs a old rover with a k series but will double check and put her in the garage till I have finished the silver one.

Danyou · Aug 18, 2018

Oil change to 15w 40 sorted the tapping,the hesitation was caused by a faulty coil pack.Changed the windscreen washer bottle pumps as nothing was coming out and still getting nothing but there pumping now is there a filter somewhere that could be blocked or are the pipes prone to blocking?i have taken the 90 degree elbow off and checked all the pipe up to where it runs in the tape.

Alibro · Aug 18, 2018

Danyou said:
Oil change to 15w 40 sorted the tapping,the hesitation was caused by a faulty coil pack.Changed the windscreen washer bottle pumps as nothing was coming out and still getting nothing but there pumping now is there a filter somewhere that could be blocked or are the pipes prone to blocking?i have taken the 90 degree elbow off and checked all the pipe up to where it runs in the tape.

I haven't heard of Freelander washers being any more prone to blocking than any other car so I can only suggest you check the water is pumping at every stage from the bottle to the nozzles until you find the problem.
Great to hear it is going tho.

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