Colthebrummie
Well-Known Member
I'm surprised they clamped the vehicle. Was it parked on a public road? I have forgotten to sorn vehicles in the past and the worst that happened to me was a warning letter.
Col
Col
neilly
Well-Known Member
Radar1946
Active Member
The car was parked at the rear of my house outside my rear gate on a large area for parking and access to the rear of the houses, which is not part of the road
I paid the £25 and filled the form in at the garage I bought the car from who are acting on the behalf of bailiffs.
I paid the £25 and filled the form in at the garage I bought the car from who are acting on the behalf of bailiffs.
Get someone with a Nanocom to disable the immobiliser and the EKA code. Only other thing you can do is send the BECM to rick the pick and have him read it. If it is locked he has the special diag to do this.
Does it say enter EKA code? You keep playing and the BECM is going to go into lockout. Then you will have no option but to send BECM to Rick.
You can't, i have told you this a few times. The key CANNOT be syncronised until the EKA code has been accepted and the immobiliser switched of. Please listen or you are going to be in more trouble than you are now. Nanocom, disable immobiliser and EKA code is the way to go at the moment.
Radar1946
Active Member
Hi Rick How do I send the BECM to you.
Rick-the-Pick
Active Member
Hold your horses.
Wait until the display goes blank if keycode lockout appeared. Approx 30 mins.
The place the key into the drivers door, press & hold the lock button & keeping this pressed turn the fob towards the back of the vehicle for 4 seconds, back to centre, release button, Then press & hold the unlock button & turn to front of vehicle for 4 seconds, back to centre then release button, then do it one more time holding the lock button & turn to back of vehicle for 4 seconds, back to neutral & release button. Fingers crossed, when you press unlock the doors will open. If the Becm has gone into a full alarmed state & corrupted the data, nothing will happen & the becm will have to be removed.
Wait until the display goes blank if keycode lockout appeared. Approx 30 mins.
The place the key into the drivers door, press & hold the lock button & keeping this pressed turn the fob towards the back of the vehicle for 4 seconds, back to centre, release button, Then press & hold the unlock button & turn to front of vehicle for 4 seconds, back to centre then release button, then do it one more time holding the lock button & turn to back of vehicle for 4 seconds, back to neutral & release button. Fingers crossed, when you press unlock the doors will open. If the Becm has gone into a full alarmed state & corrupted the data, nothing will happen & the becm will have to be removed.
Radar1946
Active Member
I could not afford to spend £260 to have the becm repaired, so I found a guy who was scrapping a car the same as mine. I was given the door lock and key, the ignition barrel, the becm, also the ecu and speedo head. For £100.
After fitting all of the parts, the lights work, the windows work. the door lock works but not the fob. When I turn on the ignition nothing at all lights up on the dash. any Ideas. if not it looks like I will have to use it for spares.
After fitting all of the parts, the lights work, the windows work. the door lock works but not the fob. When I turn on the ignition nothing at all lights up on the dash. any Ideas. if not it looks like I will have to use it for spares.
martyuk
Well-Known Member
Pity I didn't see this sooner... I have the tools to unlock/reset BECM lockouts (not the full blown repairs that Rick does though) and charge about the same as you spent on a whole replacement kit of parts..
First thing if nothing lights up on the dash would be to check the instrument cluster backlights. If none of the warning lights even come on and the cluster is just dead, then since you've swapped so much over already, I'd be inclined to try your old instrument cluster (if you swapped the new one over).
I was going to suggest Fuse F1 in the BECM fuse box, as it powers the instrument cluster, but you've already said the windows work - which the switchpack is powered from the same fuse, so not likely to be that.
Also worth checking the ground point in the RHF footwell behind the kick panel, as that's where the instrument cluster grounds to.
First thing if nothing lights up on the dash would be to check the instrument cluster backlights. If none of the warning lights even come on and the cluster is just dead, then since you've swapped so much over already, I'd be inclined to try your old instrument cluster (if you swapped the new one over).
I was going to suggest Fuse F1 in the BECM fuse box, as it powers the instrument cluster, but you've already said the windows work - which the switchpack is powered from the same fuse, so not likely to be that.
Also worth checking the ground point in the RHF footwell behind the kick panel, as that's where the instrument cluster grounds to.
martyuk
Well-Known Member
Yes, the fob would need syncing to the vehicle - the "press lock, lock vehicle with key, press unlock, unlock vehicle with key" method should sort that bit out, if the remotes are correct for the vehicle, and the RF receiver is all plugged in and working... - but that shouldn't stop the dash from coming on and lighting up.
Does the vehicle actually start and run, and work properly other than the remote, and the dashboard?
Does the vehicle actually start and run, and work properly other than the remote, and the dashboard?
P38Penguin
Active Member
If your still having problems mate let me know and I'll pop over. I'm sure I disabled the immoniliser last time. I'm off for 2 weeks now so can pop over more or less any time.
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Email every thing to your MP, get them to fight your corner.
