Everyone was great on here the other day and pointed me in the right direction for a reliable replacement fuel pump for my TD4
The original packed up a few weeks ago and we installed a cheap ebay one that whines and hums and from what I've read it is likely to expire relatively quickly.

Anyway....I have a 6 hour motorway drive to do next week. My OH (who is the mechanic..I just buy the parts!) says I'm fussing unnecessarily saying I'd like the new pump put on before I go and that the noisy pump I have on won't pack up that quickly. He also says that it's unlikely to fail quite as suddenly as the original did (the car just cut out in a matter of seconds) and that instead there would just be a gradual loss of power.

I'm worried that if the new pump went like the last one when I'm in the fast or middle lane of the motorway I'm likely to cause a pile up (it's hard enough trying to change lanes sometimes without a dead engine!) and end up with a mangled car or worse.

am I fussing or would you change it?!

When the low pressure pump fails, it's normally a gradual process tbh. They don't often kill the fuel supply completely. Most people remain unaware that it's failing initially as there is often just a drop in power, particularly on hills. Of course it's sod's law that it'll fail at the most inopportune moment, but that's just life I'm afraid

Was the filter replaced when the pump was changed?

thanks, that's really good to know
it'll probably be fine then. although like you say when it or something else breaks it is guaranteed to be in the peeing rain and/or dark when you are running late!!

oops forgot to say yes the filter was replaced when the pump was

i had my fuel pump and filter changed with a pierburg pump and oe filter, supplied and fitted £193 inc , i stayed away from the cheaper ones after reading about them on here .

that sounds like a very good deal you got as the pierburg ones aren't cheap. I rang up our local parts company and they want £170 just for the pierburg pump. They are on amazon as has been pointed out to me but I'm not sure how I would tell it was a genuine one or just a generic one in a pierburg box. I don't rate amazon' customer service if there was a problem!

At least with Amazon you get other peoples experience and review of the item your buying, with ebay all you get is whether or not the seller posted the stuff in time and with other online sellers you get nothing at all.

I had a Rover 75 some years ago and they were renown for the in tank fuel pump to fail. You didn't know it had failed until the engine bay pump also packed in. The problem was rectified in later models with a more robust in tank pump and not requiring a engine bay pump. Did the Freelander go the same route and fit a stronger in tank pump and if so what year did the modification occur. I've just bought an 05 td4 and kinda hoping I'm not having to worry about another pump failure.

Paulontour said:

I've just bought an 05 td4 and kinda hoping I'm not having to worry about another pump failure.

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lol, Frying pan and fire I'm afraid on an 05 TD4 - get acquainted with your rear wheel arch!

Damn, not the answer I was hoping for. Thanks for making my day.

Paulontour said:

Damn, not the answer I was hoping for. Thanks for making my day.

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The wheel arch pump does fail with the same symptoms as your R75. A diagnostic check on the live data is the easiest way to determine if the pump is still working. Mine shows 360Kpa or 52Psi at idle .

eurocarparts do the pierburg pump for £148 and the Bosch at £155 online at the moment

GrumpyGel said:

lol, Frying pan and fire I'm afraid on an 05 TD4 - get acquainted with your rear wheel arch!

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Could be worse.
Just rebuilt the high-pressure fuel-pump on my wife's F1 TD4 and what a lot of fun that was!

What info did you use to rebuild the pump, I have a spare pump I want to do, but need some info.
What did you replace etc??

cheers

the best thing to do is to buy the best you can afford these last longer I was on a very busy dual carriageway when the pump on my old one died but luck enough to be on the edge of a off ramp which I coasted down.

"What info did you use to rebuild the pump, I have a spare pump I want to do, but need some info.
What did you replace etc??"

Which post was this query directed at......... mine?

yes Litch yours on hp pump rebuild

I was going to post a detailed thread about this later but these are the bare bones:-

Symptom.
Drip of fuel from O/S of engine under-tray, nothing visible from above and with covers removed everything given a good visual inspection (injectors, leak-off pipes, fuel-pipes etc). Google search comes up with lots of threads across many forums (same engine used in Rover 75 remember) that High pressure Fuel Pump is likely culprit.
Solution.
Few buy a new pump (mega bucks), some buy reconditioned pumps (still £2-300+fitting), a couple buy a secondhand pump (£50-100 but I wouldn't chance it as who knows how well sealed the unions were after removal?) and then many seem to have gone for the DIY rebuild kit a(around £16).

The Haynes covers removal & refitting of the pump very well, I read several step by step guides on the web as well but to be perfectly honest it is all in the book.
You will need the following:-
Freelander 2.0 TD4 Bosch Common Rail CP1 Fuel Pump Repair Kit + Instructions from allmakes-diesel-specialist, £16.45 on Ebay.
BMW LANDROVER Diesel PUMP Puller Sprocket Removal Tool from Dave The Tools, £25.00 on Ebay.
Gasket-injection pump-diesel engine - Genuine LR (MHX100190) from LR dealer, £2.98.
Of course there are other suppliers but this is who I used.

Some people say that they didn't remove the aux drive-belt and others that they didn't remove the starter motor but if they didn't they made life hard for themselves as each is removed very quickly and makes it so much easier (in fact, with the belt in place I found it impossible to fit the collar of the Removal Tool and with the starter motor to remove the bottom pump bolt).

Rebuilding the pump needs a clean area, patience, good eyesight (I used my reading glasses and a magnifying glass) and nimble fingers (I used a pair of tweezers to place small items and a drop of vasaline to make them stick).
Clean the pump body first (seal the unions to prevent ingress of dirt) and tackle the pistons one at a time (there are three in a Y formation), follow the instructions that come with the seal kit and take your time.

With the pump rebuilt, re-assemble the vehicle and fire it up (I found that contrary to what it said in the manual it fired up at practically the first turn of the key).

Timescales.
A first timer will have it done in a day, if you start first thing possibly by late lunchtime.
Good luck.

I have time on my side.
I spotted a TD4 engine with all ancilleries that was £100 on ebay in deepest wales, got it for £105. so i have a high milleage turbo, pumps, injectors, etc and the engine. want to rebuild the hp pump and have it available if I need it.

Lowbank said:

I have time on my side.
I spotted a TD4 engine with all ancilleries that was £100 on ebay in deepest wales, got it for £105. so i have a high milleage turbo, pumps, injectors, etc and the engine. want to rebuild the hp pump and have it available if I need it.

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Hi Lowbank, HP pump rebuild - I did mine 18 months ago and from what I can remember it may prove quite difficult for some because you need mechanics hands - in other words you need a good idea of what's needed when you're working with a 'feel' of what's right. What can I remember that may be useful? Never let any dirt even be near the pump during strip down/rebuild, wear latex type gloves (change them often), on the fuel inlet stub there is a sleeve and ball bearing which will fall out during a full strip down, the cylinder cap (like a cylinder head) should be fully assembled with all the new seals and micro washer type seals THEN assembled to pump body >IN THE INVERTED POSITION< yes assemble it upside down with the piston hanging down and the seals pointing up, when you tighten the cylinder cap it does not clamp tight machined face to machined face - there is a gap between pump body and cylinder cap (so you could tighten the cap down unevenly) so tighten evenly with feeler gauges on a North, South, East, West basis (even clamping), use new 8mm Allen screws for the caps. Because of this air gap between body and cap when finished squirt some hot melt glue around the gap to keep water out, job done. I did mine with a parts drawing and no instructions so if you look, think and take your time you should be successful. Good luck.