Datatek
Well-Known Member
It is my cable, came from Mozz
tyke100
Active Member
couldnt get any cams to work.
even scanning or looking for cam - this laptop dont have any apparently.
its some usb and other plugs but as soon you look for coms - nothing.
even scanning it brings me nowhere.
its one of them Brand New things not even having a disc drive anymore.
trying with a 10 year old win 7. seems that done it.
but only know when i connect it to the car. when the batterie is recharged. ( see above )
Datatek
Well-Known Member
You are not listening, you select the coms port from the EAS software opening screen. Double click on the icon to open the EAS software, it will ask you to accept the licence agreement, click OK, it will then come up with coms failure, click OK again, you will then have the opening screen, in the top left corner it says EAS set up, click on that, it will give you a drop down menu, bring the mouse pointer down to Coms which will then give you a list of Coms ports, usually you will need to select comm 4, but it could be 3 or 5.
tyke100
Active Member
hi.
i done all that.
i tried to select every single com port showing on the drop down bar.
nothing.
then it said the driver need updating
something outdated since 2012.
i uninstalled and re installed. i tried everything for the last 4 hours then gave up.
i am using a win 7 laptop which dosnt hold any charge but works on electric.
my better half finally managed to get the software up and running and the cable installed.
at the present it says on the laptop software installed and working properly.
even the cable is connected and no error message coming up.
it also tells me the cable is connected to com port 3.
but unless i have enough power in the batterie of the car i cant connect the laptop to the car as it is only on 6 volt.
i think we hopefully / finally got it sorted the laptop running with it.
i had only the cable from mozz - no disc. maybe that was the problem.
but then my new laptop would not have a disc drive. i think its just one of them laptops which need a programmer to work with. i have no idea about pc programs and what to do with downloads.
plug and play or click and work is fine. anything above is like learning Japanese for me. sorry.
but with a bit of luck it may worked.
( and yes - i am listen - but doing what im told and is not working is hard to explain. it may works when you know what you doing but all this is new to me. i can work with obd but this comes ready installed on the machine )
i done all that.
i tried to select every single com port showing on the drop down bar.
nothing.
then it said the driver need updating
something outdated since 2012.
i uninstalled and re installed. i tried everything for the last 4 hours then gave up.
i am using a win 7 laptop which dosnt hold any charge but works on electric.
my better half finally managed to get the software up and running and the cable installed.
at the present it says on the laptop software installed and working properly.
even the cable is connected and no error message coming up.
it also tells me the cable is connected to com port 3.
but unless i have enough power in the batterie of the car i cant connect the laptop to the car as it is only on 6 volt.
i think we hopefully / finally got it sorted the laptop running with it.
i had only the cable from mozz - no disc. maybe that was the problem.
but then my new laptop would not have a disc drive. i think its just one of them laptops which need a programmer to work with. i have no idea about pc programs and what to do with downloads.
plug and play or click and work is fine. anything above is like learning Japanese for me. sorry.
but with a bit of luck it may worked.
( and yes - i am listen - but doing what im told and is not working is hard to explain. it may works when you know what you doing but all this is new to me. i can work with obd but this comes ready installed on the machine )
Datatek
Well-Known Member
OK, the driver needs updating message will refer to the USB to serial adaptor, the older adaptors will not work on Win 10, I had to buy a new one. Once I had a new one, it was plug and play on Win 10 I did not even need to download a driver. For sure the USB to serial adaptor you got from Mozz will not be Win 10 compatible but it will be fine on Win 7.
The disc from me would have made no difference.
I feel your pain, working with Windows is never straightforward.
tyke100
Active Member
lol.
i never came across any car with so many different ecus and software stuff like the landrovers.
the more i watch you tube videos about the more i start wondering .
sorry, didnt want to offend anyone but all knowledge about cars for over 30 years means nothing havimg a landrover product how it seems.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
ALL modern cars are full of ECU's, if you think the P38 is bad, try an L322, any new Ford or a Volvo or pretty much any other car post 2000.
tyke100
Active Member
i have an mark 2 galaxy which im selling this week and a 99 v70 outside.
the v70 is in full original condition. with 2 owners from new. it was my baby and
in 3 years not even advisory on it. fully working .
all cars i had in my life - and it is a quiet a collection for someone - i never ever had more as the obd to solve problems.
even when friends asking for help by electronic niggles on younger cars. obd on it and done.
sorry i may just spoiled with it. lol.
the volvo requires his own software but is one disc which i bought for 12 quit . plug and play. all systems work with one software.
it even works with this laptop i have. lol
as i said i have to loose all knowledge of cars from the past with land rover. and its not easy.
when you used to screw something back on the right way - all over sudden you screw it back on the left way. - if you know what i mean.
i also never ever experienced a car i couldnt get somehow working after a couple days. at least getting some progress.
but in my defence - since my accident with all the negative problems not being able to do what i am used to do anymore i lost a lot patience in things which may take a while.
as example changing the blower heaters on the range rove. - it would take me 1 hoiur to do both.
now it taken me a day to do one - because i cant kneel long enough next to the car without being in pain and have to stop doing it.
maybe this explains some of my frustrations and anger not going anywhere with it as fast as i wanted.
so apologies for that.
gold rover
Well-Known Member
Mate 90% of the owners on here, myself included, cannot do what we used to be able to do, or not able to do it in the same time as we did before. The key is to accept your limitations.
The next thing is to realise that Green Oval is a world unto itself. Those of us who cut their teeth on them, are at an advantage, despite knowing that they are 'interesting' to work on, and have become more 'interesting' over the decades. The big lesson is to laugh. When you want to set fire to it/take the handbrake off and let it roll off the cliff/hit it with a sledgehammer, just laugh. Walk away, have a coffee , then start again. Otherwise your laptop will just be the start of things to come.
Oh and don't forget to take pics of all your trials, troubles and victories. We like pics
tyke100
Active Member
so ... update.
its now 22.30 and i am again since 10 am on this car.
finally got one laptop working with this software just to find out i can turn the pump on and off, i can read some stuff,
ride hight values staying on 0 no matter what i unlock and try to read.
faults saying 0
when the laptop is on the car the message eas fault is not there.
the lights on the ride hight adjuster changing between permanent on to 2 lights on and then again all 4.
i dont get any rx messages back. only on some occasion some pp.
i read someone had the same faults. on a petrol and never got it solved.
so instead wasting more and more money in something which may never get solved would you guys agree coils is just the faster and cheaper option by now?
just unplug this eas get the airbags out get coils in and whatever it needs doing to get the car on the road to do what it was bought for?
i can not see any other potions. - seems the eas unit is faulty beyond any repairs and buying on good luck more parts isnt a cheap option.
i also dont intend paying a landrover garage a lot of money only telling me this unit is finished.
i been patient and tried but seems this range rover is just a car which dosnt want to be fixed.
if anyone has any other option i can try i am open to suggestions otherwise i order coils by monday
its now 22.30 and i am again since 10 am on this car.
finally got one laptop working with this software just to find out i can turn the pump on and off, i can read some stuff,
ride hight values staying on 0 no matter what i unlock and try to read.
faults saying 0
when the laptop is on the car the message eas fault is not there.
the lights on the ride hight adjuster changing between permanent on to 2 lights on and then again all 4.
i dont get any rx messages back. only on some occasion some pp.
i read someone had the same faults. on a petrol and never got it solved.
so instead wasting more and more money in something which may never get solved would you guys agree coils is just the faster and cheaper option by now?
just unplug this eas get the airbags out get coils in and whatever it needs doing to get the car on the road to do what it was bought for?
i can not see any other potions. - seems the eas unit is faulty beyond any repairs and buying on good luck more parts isnt a cheap option.
i also dont intend paying a landrover garage a lot of money only telling me this unit is finished.
i been patient and tried but seems this range rover is just a car which dosnt want to be fixed.
if anyone has any other option i can try i am open to suggestions otherwise i order coils by monday
tyke100
Active Member
yes. according to some mechanics which came around to see if the can solve the problem yes.
one suggested taking the connector of the eas ecu under the seat and use some electrical spray. just in case there is a connection problem.
im not sure if that can be done without causing more problems especially as i dont have this nanocom to reset any main ecu problems.
im really scratching my head here now.
i check all earth points tomorrow just in case. i also s[ray the obd connector [pty with electrical cleaner / contact spray too -.maybe get a result.
i just have no other ideas what to do with it now.
when i brought the car home, the previous owner used an tyre compressor to keep it up ride hight. i didnt like the idea and wanted it proper running.
i put a new pump on and put the relay back in which was missing and the thank you from the car i get its trouble. lol.
i also been told just take the relais back out disconnect the pipes ( if i find out how ) and blow up manuel and see if this fault go away . especially the 36 mph max speed. because thatt wasnt there before when i drove the car home.
so maybe the error code and max speed stays off that way.
which may give a pointer what the actually fault is.
To take the pipes out the valve block, press the brass ring round the outlet with a screwdriver and pull the pipe out.
Take off the kick panel at bottom of passenger A pillar and have a look at the white connector and clean with contact cleaner
The main BECM is under the driver's seat
ECU fir EAS is under passenger seat
You have RSW software so can reset any faults on EAS
If tehere was no error message when previous owner had pump disconnected then you have me beat
What relay did you replace?
Take off the kick panel at bottom of passenger A pillar and have a look at the white connector and clean with contact cleaner
The main BECM is under the driver's seat
ECU fir EAS is under passenger seat
You have RSW software so can reset any faults on EAS
If tehere was no error message when previous owner had pump disconnected then you have me beat
What relay did you replace?
tyke100
Active Member
Thanks for the info of the pipes.
i did replace the non working pump.
i did connect the pump manuel to power which didnt work.
so i bought a pump tried it and worked.
put it in the vehicle - connected and didnt work.
so checking it - the relai which powers the pump was not there.
so i put a relay in and thats when the problems started.
from this moment the board computer said eas fault and 35 mph max speed.
i finally managed getting the cable i got working on a win 7 laptop as my win 10 didnt agree at all with it.
i didnt know you have to play with a lot settings to get it working.
but the win 7 is fine. nothing else get done with it. so is designated now for range rover. lol.
i literal replaced only the airpump and put a new relais for the airpump in the car.
thats all.
and there was no error messages when i bought the car. i checked it and i had a mot tester with me to make sure it would be in condition to pass new mot.
so he checked all lights on dash working properly and no fault codes appeared on the computer.
i also test driven the car with no problems.
i brought it home and i am sure i exceeded 60 mph without any alarm messages coming on or alarm sound.
that is what make me think disconnecting the pimp and take the relay out. blowing it back up manuel may takes the fault problem off.
at least i would have a fix point to start looking what the actual problem is.
to take the plugs of the eas ecu or the becm ecu without having the nanocom software would this not cause more problems?
i would like submitting some pictures but i have no idea how and tbf i am more concerned about getting to the point of this problem.
So very very true !
tyke100
Active Member
well it is a standard 4 pin relais.
surely is should do the trick for testing.
i understand on a long run to get the original one but for now every little i pay out for not going anywhere is far to painful.
sorry i am not trying to spend loads of money in the car to make it a 20k worth car. - all in all its a 1996.
i want it running properly and how it should but not making a new one out of it. but still be proud of it.
i just watched a video about the delay relay under the seat.
when i opened the column on the seat the delay relay was lying on the floor.
so not sure if that has something to do with the problem not getting rx values on the diagnostic.
btw. no wet carpets or any sign of water or coolant on the carpet.
surely is should do the trick for testing.
i understand on a long run to get the original one but for now every little i pay out for not going anywhere is far to painful.
sorry i am not trying to spend loads of money in the car to make it a 20k worth car. - all in all its a 1996.
i want it running properly and how it should but not making a new one out of it. but still be proud of it.
i just watched a video about the delay relay under the seat.
when i opened the column on the seat the delay relay was lying on the floor.
so not sure if that has something to do with the problem not getting rx values on the diagnostic.
btw. no wet carpets or any sign of water or coolant on the carpet.
