Al2O3 · Apr 17, 2016

Had a christening to go to this morning so a late start on the Landy today.
Got more sound proofing stuck down.

For the front panels I had to cut out the handbrake bolt plate.

Connected the handbrake up to the cable, but forgot to put it through the carpet and so had to take it apart again. Idiot

Stuck velcro on the side of the seat box to fix the carpet down.

Mrs sewed the other side on to the carpet.

Sound proofing on the other side.

Then put the carpet in place.

I've cut the bottom part of the carpet, that would lie on the sill, off as it just soaks up water. I think it looks ok.
Managed to pull the hand brake cable through and get it connected to the lever and then bolted it all down with new stainless nuts and bolts.

Got the front seats bolted in, except the centre one. Couldn't get it in place because of the seat belt stalks.

I'll either have to remove the seat belt stalks, slot them through and re-bolt them down or take one of the main main seats out. The centre seat is a very tight fit between the other two and the seat belt, orange button bits, just won't go through.
Also, got more of the passenger side of the dashboard installed, so it's looking a little more finished up front.

defenderdog · Apr 19, 2016

Great progress mate. Looking good. Loving them carpets.

Al2O3 · Apr 23, 2016

Well, the bad weather forecast wasn't too bad so I've got a few jobs done.
Loosened the drivers wing off and tried to adjust it a bit as it didn't look level when looking at it from the front. I've manages to improve it a little.
Got the refurbed headlights fitted, which was a very quick job.

I haven't painted the headlight surrounds yet and I'm still in two minds what to go for. Current plan is silver, with silver grille and I've bought silver 3D DEFENDER lettering to go along the front of the bonnet. Opinions welcomed!
Adjusted the front brake pipes to fit closely to the calipers. The pipes from the kit must have been too long, but a few folk on here commented they might foul, so they are now sorted.

Got the Mrs out to help and I filled and bled the system. All seems firm and good via the pedal for now.
Filled and bled the clutch. The pedal just stuck down at first until it bled right through and now that seems to be working as it has always done in the past.
Took the block plug out.

Not easy to get to with a socket.

Jubilee clipped the garden hose pipe on via the heater and flushed it through.

Some green coolant came out, then some slightly brown water and then it ran clear.
I managed to get the plastic plug out of the top of the thermostat housing quite easily!

Not often I can say things went easily. I'm going to look for and order brass ones though.
The replacement coolant I've got is blue. Monoethylene glycol based. (Nitrite, Amine and Phosphate free) suitable for ferrous and aluminium petrol and diesel engines. My manual says Pre-99MY use an ethylene glycol based anti-freeze, with non-phosphate corrosion inhibitors, so I'm presuming this blue stuff is ok?
The coolant that was in was green, so I'm going to research it tonight unless someone beats me to it here and can advise.
Temperature had dropped with some rain and hail which is why I've come in. Going back out to tidy up and call it a night.

Brown · Apr 24, 2016

Brake pipes look a lot tighter now. Great. I'm also impressed that the brake fluid hasn't peeled all the paint of the callipers. Remind me - what was it you painted them with?

raywin · Apr 24, 2016

I want to add some soundproofing to my 90 is the closed cell foam you are using actually sold as soundproofing or is it something you have adapted for the job?

Al2O3 · Apr 24, 2016

Brown said:
Brake pipes look a lot tighter now. Great. I'm also impressed that the brake fluid hasn't peeled all the paint of the callipers. Remind me - what was it you painted them with?

You have a very keen eye! How did you know I got brake fluid on them?

Yes, they are a lot tighter in now. Thanks for keeping me right there. They are plastic coated. Some idiot hadn't tightened the bleed nipple properly and when I was bleeding the back it trickled out the front nearside.

Washed it off with Gunk as soon as I saw it. Still looks ok. Time will tell.

raywin said:
I want to add some soundproofing to my 90 is the closed cell foam you are using actually sold as soundproofing or is it something you have adapted for the job?

No, I adapted it for the job. It's carpet underlay really, but says it has good heat and sound insulation properties. I tested it for water absorption and it just lies on it all day and then runs off. It was a lot cheaper than anything I could find with 'sound proofing' in the title. So I've taken a chance on it. It's going to be better than what was already there! I got it off ebay. LINKY

raywin · Apr 24, 2016

Al2O3 said:
You have a very keen eye! How did you know I got brake fluid on them? Yes, they are a lot tighter in now. Thanks for keeping me right there. They are plastic coated. Some idiot hadn't tightened the bleed nipple properly and when I was bleeding the back it trickled out the front nearside. Washed it off with Gunk as soon as I saw it. Still looks ok. Time will tell.

No, I adapted it for the job. It's carpet underlay really, but says it has good heat and sound insulation properties. I tested it for water absorption and it just lies on it all day and then runs off. It was a lot cheaper than anything I could find with 'sound proofing' in the title. So I've taken a chance on it. It's going to be better than what was already there! I got it off ebay. LINKY

Thanks for that, I will give it a try, I want to line the back of the vehicle too try and stop both noise and condensation in winter.
I agree about stuff that calls itself sound proofing suddenly price goes up by a big lump, for the same material.

Al2O3 · Apr 24, 2016

raywin said:
Thanks for that, I will give it a try, I want to line the back of the vehicle too try and stop both noise and condensation in winter.
I agree about stuff that calls itself sound proofing suddenly price goes up by a big lump, for the same material.

That's what I thought. I can't imagine it being vastly different stuff. Obviously, I can't comment on it's sound insulation properties yet cos the Landy isn't running. However, I know it has very good thermal properties. I've used a square to put my bare feet on in the conservatory on the cold ceramic tiled floor. Reflects the heat from your feet right back and your feet stay nice and warm. Also, I use a large piece to lie on under the Landy on the drive. Nice

So, if part of your plan is thermal to try and help condensation then it's good stuff. You get a hell of a lot on the roll too.

Al2O3 · Apr 24, 2016

Investigated anti-freeze last night.

My conclusions were that the colour is a dye used by different manufacturers/car makers. The colour doesn't necessarily define the type. I think the stuff I have suits my engine, so I put it in. Filled via the rad until it started showing in the expansion tank and the rad was full. Got about 7,5 litres in at this point. (5 antifreeze 2.5 water) Decided to leave it at that until I get some brass filler plugs to replace the plastic ones. That seems to be the consensus of advice I've read.
Took the drivers side seat out in order to get the centre seat in, so they are all sorted now and look tidy.

Fitted the air intake to heater using some foam tape and double sided carpet tape to locate the adapter tube that links the air intake to the heater housing.
Fitted the cigar lighter and wiper switch panel in to the dash with some small stainless bolts I had left over.

Got the radio in too, but need some grey plastic trim clips to finish it. I also need to run a new aerial to it.
Cut some soundproofing to go around the bulkhead where the trans tunnel connects and tried the carpet over it. Fits snug.

I nearly fitted the bottom door seals, but I'm not sure what fixings to use. I've got some stainless rivets the right diameter, but they are a bit long. I suppose they will be inside the door frame so it doesn't matter. The stainless rivets don't pull down so easily though and if they don't tighten up they'll be tough to get out. I bought some small plastic screws, but they are too large a diameter. I'm overly paranoid about the fixings causing rot in the door frame.

I fitted the alarm siren inside the drivers front wing, which was fiddly. Had to take the power steering reservoir off again to get access.
Does anyone know what this connector might be for? It wasn't connected to anything when I took the vehicle apart. It was just hanging behind the passenger headlight. One bright orange and one black wire to it.

Another set of cables and connectors just hanging loose were these lying down the bulkhead near the drivers wing.

My brake fluid reservoir has never had any connections to it. Could they have once been connected to that? Mines a 96 300Tdi, did they have connections to the brake reservoir?

TorsionBhudda · Apr 25, 2016

Al2O3 said:
Investigated anti-freeze last night. My conclusions were that the colour is a dye used by different manufacturers/car makers. The colour doesn't necessarily define the type. I think the stuff I have suits my engine, so I put it in. Filled via the rad until it started showing in the expansion tank and the rad was full. Got about 7,5 litres in at this point. (5 antifreeze 2.5 water) Decided to leave it at that until I get some brass filler plugs to replace the plastic ones. That seems to be the consensus of advice I've read.
Took the drivers side seat out in order to get the centre seat in, so they are all sorted now and look tidy.

Fitted the air intake to heater using some foam tape and double sided carpet tape to locate the adapter tube that links the air intake to the heater housing.
Fitted the cigar lighter and wiper switch panel in to the dash with some small stainless bolts I had left over.

Got the radio in too, but need some grey plastic trim clips to finish it. I also need to run a new aerial to it.
Cut some soundproofing to go around the bulkhead where the trans tunnel connects and tried the carpet over it. Fits snug.

I nearly fitted the bottom door seals, but I'm not sure what fixings to use. I've got some stainless rivets the right diameter, but they are a bit long. I suppose they will be inside the door frame so it doesn't matter. The stainless rivets don't pull down so easily though and if they don't tighten up they'll be tough to get out. I bought some small plastic screws, but they are too large a diameter. I'm overly paranoid about the fixings causing rot in the door frame.
I fitted the alarm siren inside the drivers front wing, which was fiddly. Had to take the power steering reservoir off again to get access.
Does anyone know what this connector might be for? It wasn't connected to anything when I took the vehicle apart. It was just hanging behind the passenger headlight. One bright orange and one black wire to it.

Another set of cables and connectors just hanging loose were these lying down the bulkhead near the drivers wing.

My brake fluid reservoir has never had any connections to it. Could they have once been connected to that? Mines a 96 300Tdi, did they have connections to the brake reservoir?

My 200Tdi has connections to brake reservoir and the wires you are holding in your hands look very similar to the ones fitted my Brake reservoir I know this as had to take them off and clean them as i was getting a bad contact and brake light would flicker.

Brown · Apr 25, 2016

One reason why I've never bothered to paint my callipers is that you always get brake fluid on them, tightening up nuts, bleeding them or finding that you have to make some further adjustment which involves having to slacken things off. I just think of my nice new paint dissolving, and don't bother.

Looking nice so far. If your wondering how to fit the door seals it shows there can't be much more to do!

gazman · Apr 25, 2016

I really don't know where you find the time. It's looking awesome though

SpaceDawg · Apr 25, 2016

If you have blue antifreeze and at some point have UV dye it goes green, mine did even though its been through another flush, new blue stuff went green as well.

I 1/2 soundproofed my 90 last year and the noise came down from shouting at each other at 50 to being able to talk easily at 65. I still have to insulate the roof and do the doors.

Great re-build BTW.

Trailstar · Apr 25, 2016

i know this is a 90 build thread, but how do you guys soundproof your bulkhead? - looking at doing series 3 with soundproofing sometime and would be interested!
thanks!!
awesome rebuild thread.!!

gazman · Apr 25, 2016

my 90 has fat mat stuck to every surface possible. so it's all across the floor, the gearbox tunnel, all around the pedals and then up the bulkhead. It's also across the channel the heaters blow through but not on the back of the bulkhead flaps and a few other hard to reach places

gazman · Apr 25, 2016

I haven't done the doors though as they are quite shot and will end up getting changed at some point

Al2O3 · Apr 26, 2016

TorsionBhudda said:
My 200Tdi has connections to brake reservoir and the wires you are holding in your hands look very similar to the ones fitted my Brake reservoir I know this as had to take them off and clean them as i was getting a bad contact and brake light would flicker.

Cheers. TorsionBhudda. Coincidentally, I saw some cables the same last night on a thread about lead mats for covering the engine. Those cables must have been from there, but someone left them off over ten years ago!

Brown said:
One reason why I've never bothered to paint my callipers is that you always get brake fluid on them, tightening up nuts, bleeding them or finding that you have to make some further adjustment which involves having to slacken things off. I just think of my nice new paint dissolving, and don't bother.

Looking nice so far. If your wondering how to fit the door seals it shows there can't be much more to do!

The plastic coating has survived so far.

I've dripped brake fluid on normal paint in the past and it's never a good outcome. Not a lot left to do really. Won't be long before I have to pluck up courage to connect the battery!

gazman said:
I really don't know where you find the time. It's looking awesome though

Cheers, gazman. That crosses my mind too, especially when I'm looking through the dismantling photos to see how something needs to go back together. The ones with the old chassis on the lawn and the two axles and engine sat on the drive were two years ago. It's a bloody long time.

SpaceDawg said:
If you have blue antifreeze and at some point have UV dye it goes green, mine did even though its been through another flush, new blue stuff went green as well.

I 1/2 soundproofed my 90 last year and the noise came down from shouting at each other at 50 to being able to talk easily at 65. I still have to insulate the roof and do the doors.

Great re-build BTW.

It'll be interesting to see what happens to the blue stuff then

It's good to hear your sound proofing worked, gives me more hope for mine.

Trailstar said:
i know this is a 90 build thread, but how do you guys soundproof your bulkhead? - looking at doing series 3 with soundproofing sometime and would be interested!
thanks!!
awesome rebuild thread.!!

I'm just using the foam I mentioned, inside the cab in the footwells and trans tunnel area. I'm not putting anything on the engine bay side.

Trailstar · Apr 26, 2016

ok thanks!, i had a quick look at carpet underlay just before, theres actually a lot of variety!!, will check out that fatmat product as well...
i read somewhere about putting some sort of soundproofing under the bonnet which apprently helps a lot, so will see if i can find anything thats fire resistant to try it....

Al2O3 · Apr 26, 2016

If you don't already have one, you can get these. LINKY They are often twice this price

Trailstar · Apr 26, 2016

do they do them for a series 3?- im going to have to do a bulk order sometime from somewhere in the uk, so might add one of them to the growing list...

thanks for the great rebuild thread anyway!, apart from it being very intersting to read, its helped me with tdying up my series3!!

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