There is actually a very good reason why i ask this question, and it's nowt to do with doing handbrake turns with me neons on in the local B&Q carpark at night time, but unfortunately cannot discuss it in here without actually doing some unavoidable advertising of my business venture.
Suffice to say, i need some sort of secondary braking system.
Anchor out of the window p'raps? :D

This isn't a trialling scam to fit fiddle brakes is it?

Ok then, have a look at the Rover 820/827, the rear calipers have the handbrake facility built in and are possibly a staight swap for the LR ones.
 
This isn't a trialling scam to fit fiddle brakes is it?

Ok then, have a look at the Rover 820/827, the rear calipers have the handbrake facility built in and are possibly a staight swap for the LR ones.


Thank the Lord! :rolleyes:

If i wasn't such a cymical old get, i'd swear those 3 old nuggets are tryin' to wind me up.;)

Oh, and no, it's not a trialling scam.
It's a 'letting kids drive my Landy....and other unmentionable makes with dual controls....;)...on an off roading course i've been fortunate enough to be able to lease.

Christ, that's blown me cover! :D
 
extra pedals in the passenger side fer one

I've been advised that's not possible without the horrendous expense of sourcing a 2nd hand LHD pedal box, and then all the associated fiddlin linkin' it up to the original stuff. Way over my capabilities that.:rolleyes:

'He Man' and others, don't do duals cus of the transmission tunnel. Just not possible apparently....unless you know different of course?:p
 
yeah! good call


its by far the simplest solution. re-design the whole rear end. you could put the rear end from a rover 2000 on it . that even has self lubricating discs
 
I've been advised that's not possible without the horrendous expense of sourcing a 2nd hand LHD pedal box, and then all the associated fiddlin linkin' it up to the original stuff. Way over my capabilities that.:rolleyes:

'He Man' and others, don't do duals cus of the transmission tunnel. Just not possible apparently....unless you know different of course?:p


who ever told you that was talking out their arse.

in a past life i used to frequantly put extra pedals into a vast range of vehicles. some with a direct link and some cable linked.
if you say the trans tunnel is too high for a straight rod linkage then use a cable.

all you need do is secure a pedal onto the bulkhead and route the cable so it pull on the pedal on the other side


total cost less than a tenner and about an hour or two work, depending how good yer are
 
only problem with having handbrake on the rear wheels only on a vehicle close on 2 tons is that it will lock the rear wheels but still keep on going and may even cause an accident with rear control being lost.
 
only problem with having handbrake on the rear wheels only on a vehicle close on 2 tons is that it will lock the rear wheels but still keep on going and may even cause an accident with rear control being lost.
good well thought out point mr stig; specially if yer got kids in it and your sat panicing on the passenger seat
 
Pardon my ignorance, but i've only accidentally used it once whilst coming to a standstill whilst still moving very very slowly.
The banging and crashing that went on was enough for me to NEVER do that again.
Is it actually 'gripping' the half shafts then? :confused:
A normal handbrake distributes the force equally, STRAIGHT TO THE HUBS. A propshaft handbrake can (I'm told, coz I'm not an engineer) send the force anywhere. So all your braking force CAN end up on one half shaft and sheer it. That's why you have the shuddering when you put it on while moving slowly - what you can feel is the differentials trying to work out where to send the force.
The force should, of course, be WITH you, as my mate Darth V keeps telling me.
(This really is what I've been told. If some real engineer out there thinks it's b******s let me know).
 
who ever told you that was talking out their arse.

in a past life i used to frequantly put extra pedals into a vast range of vehicles. some with a direct link and some cable linked.
if you say the trans tunnel is too high for a straight rod linkage then use a cable.

all you need do is secure a pedal onto the bulkhead and route the cable so it pull on the pedal on the other side


total cost less than a tenner and about an hour or two work, depending how good yer are

Looks like yous talked yerself into the job then matey.
I'm on me way with tenner in mitt.
 
Aloha all!

They try and test the park brake (as LR call it - yes there is a difference..) at our 6 monthly warrant of fitness.:eek: I tell them in no uncertain terms that they can't pull it on while moving (on the rolling road). I allways get "how can I test it then? We have to put a reading on the form." My reply is "would you do that to a 20 ton truck?" The usual answer is "no". "Exactly" I say. :D Then I show them the manual.:p
By the way, why don't LR still attach the sticker/plate that the series vehicles had regarding the Park Brake?:cool:
 
Managed to get me grubby mitts on a nice pair of.......................................................................................................................................















2nd hand pedals 'n' associated gubbins! :D

Just gorra do a bira bodgin' now then.:rolleyes:
 
A normal handbrake distributes the force equally, STRAIGHT TO THE HUBS. A propshaft handbrake can (I'm told, coz I'm not an engineer) send the force anywhere. So all your braking force CAN end up on one half shaft and sheer it. That's why you have the shuddering when you put it on while moving slowly - what you can feel is the differentials trying to work out where to send the force.
The force should, of course, be WITH you, as my mate Darth V keeps telling me.
(This really is what I've been told. If some real engineer out there thinks it's b******s let me know).

OK .... it's bollocks. Sorry about that.

The shuddering is due to the torque of the transmission brake rocking the whole tranmission/engine a tiny tad as the brake bites, then as the friction in the drum changes due to the transition from SLIDING friction to STATIC friction (and there is a huge difference) the effect is almost like rapid brake ON - brake OFF situation bouncing on the mounts, and we get that ghastly violent shudder.
There's no way to stop is because there is so much flex capability in the drive trains and mounts.

It isn't good for anything that shuddering, and it should only happen at slow speeds.
At higher speeds pulling on the handbrake may make bad noises, and it sure will wipe the rust off the handbrake drum, but it ought to be smooth till just before it stops, which is when if you have a look underneath you will probably feel the heat and see the glow of a red hot drum.

CharlesY
 
It isn't good for anything that shuddering, and it should only happen at slow speeds.
At higher speeds pulling on the handbrake may make bad noises, and it sure will wipe the rust off the handbrake drum, but it ought to be smooth till just before it stops, which is when if you have a look underneath you will probably feel the heat and see the glow of a red hot drum.

CharlesY

Look. I'm goin' the garage for a bottle of meths' cus i'm ded thirsty like, so i'll give it 'death' down our road, and lob the handbrake on and see if you're right.
I'll report back in ten minutes. ;)
 

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