They also do another part for the damper bracket that converts it to the pin type damper, that is what the four smaller holes are for.
 
Very neat soloution to a very real problem I.e a drop arm that is more of a ball ache to service in the field and disco/rangy under slung damper and weak 2 piece track rod.
 
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yes I once lost a load of time on the Welsh hillrally because of a standard track rod, we did 3 stages with it bent and had to take it off twice to straighten it, no fun when it's cold muddy and lashing down.
 
The engine cover is now welded up and it fits. Not the best looking thing but once it is painted it won't be too bad.
The problem is that there isn't any room to do anything else, the cover needs to go over the air filters and be clear of the gear lever and hand brake. I could of built an inlet with a plenum instead of the ITB's which I may yet do if the ITB's don't work out and that would be much lower.
This afternoon I will be taking the engine out and making a start on the brake pipes plus there is some welding to finish on the engine mounts.





 
Owl,

Great build thread. How did you bend the metal to shape for the top of the chassis rails along the curves?

Thanks,

Rick
 
Looks strangely huge in the abstract photos. But in reality I take it its quite small. Really looking forward to seeing the finished beast
 
Looks strangely huge in the abstract photos. But in reality I take it its quite small. Really looking forward to seeing the finished beast

The engine cover looks like something that would be covering a Petter or Lister but hopfully once fettled and painted it will look ok. Though prob not that bad if it does look like a piece of old plant after all it is based on a 50's LR.
 
Just been doing a spot of welding, I have welded the engine and gearbox mountings on which I couldn't do with the engine in, plus I have made some brackets and welded on the coil pack. The coil pack is a P38 item cut down to 3 coils.
I have some Bosh coil drivers that I will fit in a seperate sealed box and work them with the Megasquirt.
The thick strap from the crossmember to the chassis is to protect the gear linkage, I fitted a strap so hopfully it won't block up with mud and stop me changing gear but protect it from rock impacts, it is rather low as you will see once I fit the cables.





 
I finished fetling the inlet and exhaust manifolds, the inlet for the left side needed some welding cleaning up on the inside and the exhaust needed a couple of the joining sleeves cutting off and some slightly smaller jobs welding on, so that is all done.
Also I have finished the bash plate for under the engine.





 
I finished fetling the inlet and exhaust manifolds, the inlet for the left side needed some welding cleaning up on the inside and the exhaust needed a couple of the joining sleeves cutting off and some slightly smaller jobs welding on, so that is all done.
Also I have finished the bash plate for under the engine.






Some beautifully long primary's!
going to have some nice low torque!
 
Some beautifully long primary's!
going to have some nice low torque!

Yes I hope so, it won't be in V8 territory though I have seen a KV6 that makes 300Nm. Fortuantly a lot of work has been done on K series engines by the caterham and Elise guys, I got the exhaust Primary specs of a renowned tuners web site who fitted a long primary exhaust manifold on a Caterham and saw 30lbft torque increase.
 
Hi Guys, the chassis brackets are welded up and the brake pipes are in. i have painted the chassis and put the engine and box back in. Now for a spot of wiring.
I have a Megasquirt 2 and I am making a seperate ign coil driver box to keep the heat and noise down in the MS2, I have this loom that I saved, I took it out of a Range Rover Sport, if you look you can see some burn marks in the fuse box where the main feed cable was left loose.The fuse box is part of the loom so a new loom was needed which means I can use this one to make my loom :)
at the back is a TD5 engine loom too (usual fault) which has a few useful bits.

 
Drove up to Sheffield on Friday and picked up the springs, when I unpacked them and checked, they don't fit as they have wound the ends down to 83mm OD instead of ID.
Bummer, I was looking forward to getting it on it's springs.

 
Drove up to Sheffield on Friday and picked up the springs, when I unpacked them and checked, they don't fit as they have wound the ends down to 83mm OD instead of ID.
Bummer, I was looking forward to getting it on it's springs.


That sucks, are they going to do a new set or are you going to modify the mounts?

Are they duel or single rate?
 
They arn't open until Monday but they will have to make a new set, I looked at altering the mounts but thats too much work and I don't need more work.
They are Chrome Vanadium dual rate jobs with the second rate 2" below ride height.
Also I need the springs to taper in more at the ends, something else we talked over but they havent got quite right.
I have plenty of other stuff to keep me busy while I am waiting for a new set.
 
Well I have a new set of springs, unfortuantly they don't fit :mad:
They have made the ends larger but most are still too small to fit the spring seats even though I sent them a seat to check, should be 83mm. also they still don't taper enough and are binding on the chassis at ride hight, so at full bump things would only get worse, I even sent them a template. So we will try again.



 
That's a ****er!!

Had issues with a company turning an adaptor for a silencer. Seems my cad drawing wasn't good enough although perfectly acceptable for the yanks state department drawings for building layouts.

I gave up.


9mm out that's lots of I can zoom in enough.

I'm sure they will sort it pretty quickly. I'm awaiting a pallet stacker to lift my landy skyward so I can work under it.

Can't wait until the Nationals getting close now
 
Not having much luck.. huh.
How close are the tolerances, maybe its tough for them to get that close.
what company is it out of curiosity as I plan to get some made eventually.
 

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