Nodge68 said:

No idea Andy, but every day is a school day!

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andyfreelandy said:

Alarm went off in the G4 today. Unlocked car, left it while doing summat else.
Went back to it and every way of locking, remote, key all set off horns instantly.
Door light extinguishes when all doors closed.
Turning on ignition and then relocking appeared to solve.
Is it a feature to sound horns after an alarm trip (when no doors opened) to warn you summat not right??

Assume as the horn sounds instantly it is not the volumetric.

Anyone had similar or any ideas.
It is quiet at the moment!!
Thanks.

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Jon Dor said:

I had similar this evening upon locking driver door with key. I have a remote that is just an ornament currently. Only had car 3 days, so will replace remote batteries asap.
In addition to the alarm sounding just once each time I locked the car, a red light blinked furiously on the dash, so I checked all doors and windows were secure, only to find the rear window was open about 5mm. I got in car, put window up, locked car...no alarm sounded

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Colthebrummie said:

Yes, my old freelander used to have alarm issues that were caused by the tailgate window not being closed properly. I never knew why it opened itself but it would do it every few days.

Col

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Jon Dor said:

Did you perhaps"pass wind" intermittently that your car took objection to
I suspect that's how mine opened

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Colthebrummie said:

Lol, very likely. I got into habit of always checking it was fully closed when I parked it but sometimes, I would find it opened itself in the night. Sometimes just a few millimeters and other times fully open. Probably summat to do with the limit switch under the panal, I did take a look at mine but I couldnt see anything untoward.

Col

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Jon Dor said:

I only bought my car last week, but the previous owner said if I took the door card off, I'd find a means of adjusting the rear window.
Too many other issues to sort out before looking at that.
Mike.

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Colthebrummie said:

The attitude I took to the rear window issue was that it was one of those landrover gremlins that could be tolerated. Keeping the bloody coolant in the engine was always my main concern.

Col

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Jon Dor said:

There was some frothy residue in the header tan

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andyfreelandy said:

It's a bit off the thread topic, but check your oil cooler, head gasket failure on TD4 is rare.

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andyfreelandy said:

I am saving the above response as I think it is a first from Nodge !!
I have confirmed that the volumetric does a 15 second wait before becoming active when alarm activated so it isn't that.
I think I may have identified an unknown design feature as all is well when door open, ignition on then off then locked.
Next time an alarm sounds I will simply unlock the door and see if another vehicle does the same and sounds horn every time it is locked.

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Kerlaan said:

I have been thinking about your alarming issue. I had the same symptoms. A few days later though, my (LHD) drivers door (your nearside) glass mechanism failed. I replaced it and the alarm matter just happened to disappear. Is the system able to detect the door glass not closing fully? Unlikely I think, but since changing the regulator, I've had no issues with the alarm (except for the day I had my front passenger window ajar having been distracted and discovering an issue between the alarm and the door lock [on drivers side (LHD don't forget]).

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Kerlaan said:

DOH! Is there some evil scrooge-like LR person employed on the FL1 design team who died and was abused by the board of directors looking down and getting even on the owners? I have a vision of character like one of "The Tuckers" laughing like a drain at us all.
I reconnected my battery yesterday after putting the "new" steering wheel in place (avoiding the face full of airbag) and the rear window dropped down with the alarm ringing out... Now the CCU won't recalibrate the rear window , the weather has turned and it is clear I need to replace the window regulator...

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Kerlaan said:

Is there some evil scrooge-like LR person employed on the FL1 design team who died and was abused by the board of directors looking down and getting even on the owners?

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Nodge68 said:

The rear door is a BMW design, and it works the same way as a BMW 3 series coupe door window, which needs to drop to allow the window to clear the top seal.
Because of this requirement to drop on door opening, the window needs calibration after the battery has been disconnected, unless you use a memory saver device.

It's unfortunate that rusted rear window cables fail under strain of the rear window dropping lower than normal, which enviably leaves the rear window unable to move until the cables are replaced.

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