Yesterday went out to the D2 and pressed the unlock button on the fob...... nothing. I returned indoors and fitted a new battery to the fob.

Out to the car, press the unlock button on the fob and again nothing, so I unlock the drivers door manually and open the door. The alarm goes off, pressing the buttons on the fob makes no difference and the alarm continues for another 30 seconds.

When the alarm stops I disconnect the battery, then left it for several minutes and reconnect the battery, the alarm sets off again.

I’m guessing the culprit is the alarm receiver which is in the head lining by the sunroof. With the battery disconnected I remove the receiver, check for moisture (there was none) clean the earthing point, reassemble and connect the battery. Makes no difference at all, no response from the fob. So another new battery in the fob, again no response.

Today I fit another receiver, but still nothing. If I use the key and turn it once the drivers door unlocks, if I turn it twice all the doors unlock. And I can also lock it ok on the key. But if I put the key in the ignition the alarm goes off (previously it was set off just by opening the door).


Anything mechanical I can fix, but electrical things are a different matter. I've searched the forum without a great deal of success. Now I'm out of ideas.

Anyone had similar problems? I've had D2's before but never experienced this before.

Sounds like the wee buggers (fobs) needs resyncing to the landy.

Structions should be about the net somewhere like here

If it is totally FUBAR'd I would highly recommend these fellas Remote Key - Car And Van Remote Key Fobs & Immobilisers

Completely re circuit boarded my D1 fob that was goosed - the battery holder was held to the board with a folded up piece of paper and a small lump of chewing gum. The soldering was abysmal but the fellas sorted it, and for an extra £24 supplied me with an all in one key - fob incorporated into body of key (bit like D2 key). This went faulty, probably my fault as I'm a cack handed muppet and they sorted out the fault within 1 day - I sent the all in one off on the Monday - had it back fixed on the Wednesday - fantastic service!!

You need to get the alarm deactivation code from Land Rover which will allow you to use the car

Eka what what

KillaJoules; I have the EKA code but because the the key is worn it's not always possible to enter the correct sequence due to the key getting stuck. There's something like 40 turns of the key, the key only needs to get stuck once and it's back to square one.

Pontyslapper; Thanks for the link

Fanatic; EKA = Emergency Key Access

LOL, yes I know Land Rover quality door locks!

Our D1 had the original single button fobs, I cant even get the alarm into programming mode using the marvelous synchronized key turns and button switch and button pushes, not to mention the pirouettes and splits you have to do as well !!

May be worth borrowing a scanner and listening out for teh fob

MJI said:

May be worth borrowing a scanner and listening out for teh fob

Click to expand...

Do you happen to know the precise frequency?

I've scanned from 433Mhz through to 434Mhz but nothing there

Just scanned my son's volvo fob and get a really strong signal, unlike the disco signal which is very weak (less than a metre range) and only works around 1 in 15 presses.

nigel-s said:

do you happen to know the precise frequency?

I've scanned from 433mhz through to 434mhz but nothing there

Click to expand...

433 920

Nigel-S said:

Just scanned my son's volvo fob and get a really strong signal, unlike the disco signal which is very weak (less than a metre range) and only works around 1 in 15 presses.

Click to expand...

Sounds like it needs a checkover, they pop apart pretty easily and then you can tell, the switches do fail, about £5 or £6 for 10 from RS plus postage, you get dry joints, broken joints.