sierrafery
Well-Known Member
Did you rewire it directly from the ECU ? this thing happenned to a friend of mine too and only rewiring from the ECU helped, there is a grommet on the side where you can go out with wires
Disco Magic
Active Member
I rewired from sensor to the plug under the coolant tank.
I’ll strip the glovebox out now and have a look at rewiring from coolant tank to ECU.
I’ll strip the glovebox out now and have a look at rewiring from coolant tank to ECU.
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
The best would be to rewire from ECU directly to sensor
Disco Magic
Active Member
I did wonder if I’d be best to start from scratch and take out the extra joints. under the coolant tank.
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
That's the way i did and it was the real fix, i doubt that the ECU would behave like that though not impossible but it's not thathard to rewire and then you know for sure, if that's the case replacement used ECUs are not expensive and you can send it back and get refund if it's DOA but it's feckless if you are not 100% sure about the circuits
Disco Magic
Active Member
Cheers, what route did you take for new wiring? I can’t see how to get into the engine bay or would you try and get “outside” then down the left chassis tail and across?
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
Went out through the grommet on the A post near the headers then as you say across the chassis to sensors but on the other side as it's LHD here and i rewired them both to be 100% ruled out
Disco Magic
Active Member
I have the glove box and kick board out but I can’t see a grommet to get outside, do I need to remove the side trim too (just trying to leave as much in tact as possible).
Fortunately the SLS wires are to the first plug on the SLABS and the wires are almost added on top of the loom so easy to snip a few inches back for joining.
I wondered about going out with the bonnet release, round the bulkhead clipped to air con pipes then back down my new trunking clipped to the original loom along the right hand chassis rail.
There’s also a grommet each side into the engine bay for main wiring looms. Can’t easily feel the inside of the passenger side one.
The drivers side has a couple of nipples engine side, presumably I could nip one off and find a route to cross behind the centre console?
Also, and sorry for all the questions, there’s a dangling BMW/Tyco plug near the ECU. I can’t see a place for it anywhere, is this a normal unused plug? Possibly for ACE which isn’t fitted to my car?
thanks always
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
You can route out the wires where ever seems simpler for you, the grommet i used is on the A post under the fascia, many headers there but maybe that's not the best for you cos at that time the vehicle had the wing removed too... that plug is a mystery for me too
Disco Magic
Active Member
Sorry for the long delay again, been quite under the weather (not COVID).
I managed to buy a new boxed SRD500070 SLABS ECU at a good price. It looks as though it’s never been fitted as the brackets are all scratch free.
Without fitting it I just swapped the plugs but my Nanocom won’t load if. I can navigate through to SLABS but then whether entering Settings or Inputs it just hangs and shows “working”.
When I reconnect the original SLABS everything loads up.
The seller reckons it needs programming to the chassis number with Testbook as Nanocom can’t do it.
I was under the impression the SLABS ECU is plug and play without Testbook.
Am I doing something wrong? Swaps are always with battery disconnected.
Thanks always
I managed to buy a new boxed SRD500070 SLABS ECU at a good price. It looks as though it’s never been fitted as the brackets are all scratch free.
Without fitting it I just swapped the plugs but my Nanocom won’t load if. I can navigate through to SLABS but then whether entering Settings or Inputs it just hangs and shows “working”.
When I reconnect the original SLABS everything loads up.
The seller reckons it needs programming to the chassis number with Testbook as Nanocom can’t do it.
I was under the impression the SLABS ECU is plug and play without Testbook.
Am I doing something wrong? Swaps are always with battery disconnected.
Thanks always
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
Interesting, go for a short ride with the new SLABS to see what happens, then try to set it again. Was the ignition on when you tried to set it or not ?
Disco Magic
Active Member
Ignition on.
Sitting on axle stands under the chassis at the moment, a drive would be a balls ache.
I’ll pump the air up using the old SLABS and see if that does anything.
I assume from your reply it should be plug and play?
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
It should be fully programmable but if it's completely blank it might need the VIN to be saved in it
Disco Magic
Active Member
Ah, that’s me stuffed then. I thought SLABS were plug and play.
Maybe only pre programmed ones are plug and play and brand new ones need the Testbook.
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
No ECU is just "plug and play", once fitted to a vehicle any ECU will need some sort of programming to match the vehicle's equipments cos the vehices are not all the same, even the ACE ECU which is the most rudimentary one needs a calibration
Disco Magic
Active Member
Yes, I appreciate what you’re saying, I know it would need SLS setting to spring or air plus calibrate the height settings. I can’t access any of that, it’s in the background with a black box covering it in the foreground hung on “working”.
I’ll try and link a video later or tomorrow.
I just meant by PnP that I didn’t think it needed Testbook pairing to the car. Everything I’ve read here or other forums implies it’s a swappable part and Nanocom can set it up.
I’ll try and link a video later or tomorrow.
I just meant by PnP that I didn’t think it needed Testbook pairing to the car. Everything I’ve read here or other forums implies it’s a swappable part and Nanocom can set it up.
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
I doubt that anyone here swapped in an unused one like your's is
