If reading faults and clearing with diag flattens your battery get a new one it's knackered.
If it's full calcium make sure your alternator has at the very least 14.2 volts output. Preferably 14.5.
martyuk
Well-Known Member
I run the MF31-1000 in my P38, and have done for the last 4 years. It's supposedly a Lead/Calcium battery - but seems to charge OK on the p38 system (just make sure all the power/ground wires are all up to scratch!)
On a few of the other points...
EAS inhibit - the BECM combines all the 'door ajar' switch signals, and the 'tailgate open' switch and sends that down one wire to the EAS ECU as a 'door open' inhibit line. This is a ground signal when any of the doors or tailgate are opened, otherwise it should sit at battery voltage. It runs from the BECM on C112 (16 way green connector on the front of the BECM) pin 3 - Purple/Orange wire over to the a splice which splits it to both the EAS ECU and the EAS delay/timer relay module. It could be worth looking under the passenger seat at the wiring to see if you can find the splice, or see if the wiring has been cut or damaged. If it's somehow become disconnected, then it will give the symptom you show as it will never pull the wire to ground. It could also be worth checking the pins on the green connector at the BECM. My mate had the problem on his P38 and the issue was found at the green connector where the pin had backed out of the connector a bit, so wasn't making proper connection.
As Wammers says - there is no option to turn it on or off in Nanocom or any other diagnostics.
Door locking etc - It sounds like the motors in the door latches have burnt out or otherwise failed. The L/H/R one might be a wiring thing as it runs directly from the BECM (though this is not likely to be the problem as from memory both rear doors are triggered from the same relay). The front doors... more than likely the motors there too. The fact that you can open the tailgate says that the Central Locking switch in the drivers latch is working - as the tailgate motor grounds through there. If the doors/mirrors all work in the front doors then the communications from the BECM to the front door outstations are all working ok - so it points to the latches being the culprit.
I refurbish door latches in my spare time and see a LOT (mostly fronts) where the motors have burnt out.
Hope this helps,
Marty
On a few of the other points...
EAS inhibit - the BECM combines all the 'door ajar' switch signals, and the 'tailgate open' switch and sends that down one wire to the EAS ECU as a 'door open' inhibit line. This is a ground signal when any of the doors or tailgate are opened, otherwise it should sit at battery voltage. It runs from the BECM on C112 (16 way green connector on the front of the BECM) pin 3 - Purple/Orange wire over to the a splice which splits it to both the EAS ECU and the EAS delay/timer relay module. It could be worth looking under the passenger seat at the wiring to see if you can find the splice, or see if the wiring has been cut or damaged. If it's somehow become disconnected, then it will give the symptom you show as it will never pull the wire to ground. It could also be worth checking the pins on the green connector at the BECM. My mate had the problem on his P38 and the issue was found at the green connector where the pin had backed out of the connector a bit, so wasn't making proper connection.
As Wammers says - there is no option to turn it on or off in Nanocom or any other diagnostics.
Door locking etc - It sounds like the motors in the door latches have burnt out or otherwise failed. The L/H/R one might be a wiring thing as it runs directly from the BECM (though this is not likely to be the problem as from memory both rear doors are triggered from the same relay). The front doors... more than likely the motors there too. The fact that you can open the tailgate says that the Central Locking switch in the drivers latch is working - as the tailgate motor grounds through there. If the doors/mirrors all work in the front doors then the communications from the BECM to the front door outstations are all working ok - so it points to the latches being the culprit.
I refurbish door latches in my spare time and see a LOT (mostly fronts) where the motors have burnt out.
Hope this helps,
Marty
A lot to take in I managed to change my order and got the same battery you've just mentioned. I've fitted battery and done the emergency key thing and all is well now reset my eas again and now she's booked in to use a ramp to look for a oil leak. Looks like oil pipe that fits near oil filter
I took out the wheel-arch liner on one side, driver's, I think. You don't need to but I found it made it a lot easier as I'd never done it before. Doesn't take long.
What i want to know is how something like that gets through an MOT test.
Hidden under a fold? Or just ignorance of the workings of an air-spring?
I think that or at least some of it would have been visible fully extended.
I could see some of the cracking but most was inwards and only be seen if under the car also didn't have any clips on the top . Was a pig to get the airline back in. Just other side to do now but looks like it has been replaced but doing it just in case then the water pump. What are worth a few little issues left to fix
