skipjack452

Member
Awhile back I took on a tank full of diesel contaminated with some type of solvent. Here we loose fuel pumps regularly to sand, but this was entirely different.

I had to replace the VDO fuel pump and sent all 5 injectors to England for re-build since there is no one here equipped to test or service the Delphi BEBE2A01001 electronic unit injectors in the 2002 TD5. Now I read about a click when refitting the adjusting screws on the rocker arm securing nut. Ribble valley diesel sent along a how to sheet for re-installation noting this sound. I can only guess it is the new adjusting screw re-seating in the cup of the push rod.

Any one with experience out there ?
It is being extremely hard to re-start, I am Leary of burning up the starter, all relays and sensors test good.
I did reprogram new values to the ECU injectors, and did re-learn security. ECU reports robust.

Run the purge sequence many times to remove air and it is producing white smoke out the tail pipe but will not fire off. You can smell fuel.

The contaminant smelled like fluid used to boil an engine black in my day 1960s' but I know they use a caustic soda, today. So I have no idea what was in that fuel, all of the rubber hoses seem to be fine, none of them are softening to the touch. We'll see after it runs.
 
Last edited:
What I do not own is a fuel pressure tester than will get to 7 bar 150lbs is what is recommended for this gauge! I might have received a bad VDO, it has happened once before, it is rare from Siemens.
 
Hope it not done any permanent damage,
If you look here you will see how to change the injector seals , but it is also a very good guide to how to set up the injectors, don't worry that it says Discovery its the same engine.
http://www.discovery2.co.uk/Injector Seals.html

The solvent may have damaged the seals and diaphragm in the fuel pressure regulator which is at the back of the cylinder head on the Left when you stand at the front of the car. you can get a repair kit for this here its much cheaper than the whole regulator and its all you need :
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fuel-Pres...082087?hash=item3ac4562127:g:xPEAAOSwdG9XRbTP
Some good info here:
 
I take it you have done the ignition on and pump the throttle pedal prime procedure? if not do it and then when trying to start put the throttle down hard to the floor when cranking.

It's all part of the priming procedure after it has run out of fuel or been in bits
 
I take it you have done the ignition on and pump the throttle pedal prime procedure? if not do it and then when trying to start put the throttle down hard to the floor when cranking.

It's all part of the priming procedure after it has run out of fuel or been in bits
I think he mentions run purge procedure many times, when mine was pulling air in it responded to putting the throttle to the floor and turning it over, it coughed a few times then it stated for a few seconds and finally it fired up.
 
I think he mentions run purge procedure many times, when mine was pulling air in it responded to putting the throttle to the floor and turning it over, it coughed a few times then it stated for a few seconds and finally it fired up.
doh I missed that bit....
mine always white smokes when it's been worked on and had the injectors out. I either leave it for a while before trying again or do it with the throttle fully open.
It's a horrible acrid smell and I think it's raw fuel
 
The only thing of all the great suggestions I have not done is the fuel pressure regulator on the rear of the block, I do not seen any fuel leakage, when I had to change it before it was weeping fuel. Truth is I have put my hand on just about every electrical connection from one end of this thing to another; I found a automotive electrician about an hour away, that my machinist says he trust, if you knew how anal this guys is it would be as big a wow to you as it was to me. So Danny the electrician is set to come here and run circuit test on everything, before I just keep cranking (caveat) unless his wife goes into labor then I wait awhile longer.

I had received new copper seals with my re-built injectors, but they were scared by their machine so I discarded and used new. The new rubber O-rings did not look damaged, I used the ones on the injectors; later on I might find I regret that. I have new sets (O-rings), but no more copper washers; I do have an order in with paddock for two extra sets just for my parts box. Which is a 100 quart igloo cooler. Best place to keep things dry in the tropics.

Or exorcist, anyone know a good one?
Second thought if anyone ever meets this Murphy fella, just go ahead and knock the hell out of him for me I will gladly pay the simple assault fine!
 
Danny showed up on time, and after an hour of chasing circuits, and verify voltages. We decided to crank it; we spun it until the started weakened but we did get white smoke, let it cool and hooked a second diesel engine and batteries to it and began spinning it heavy white smoke had to let the starter cool and went at it until it fired off.

Ribble valley diesel instruction sheet said do not rev the engine after it cranks just let it sit and idle for 20 minutes, then take it out and drive it 15 miles.

We did just that and it runs as great as it ever did. Returned to the house and turned it off and cranked it again let it sit and cranked it again.
Thank you one and all.
 
It is harder to start than it ever was, it requires more than what I call normal cranking over and repeatedly pumping the pedal before it fires off. Runs great just not cranking easily. Used to you just pumped petal once and hit key it immediately fired off.
 
I've had the same problem had to have new fuel pump filters and luckily injectors survived the fuel turned pure black wondered what it is
IMAG0213.jpg
 

Similar threads