Intestinalworm

Well-Known Member
EGR removed and all going well but didn't remove and clean the inlet manifold due to time and the fact I'd have to get a new inlet manifold gasket. Now, will the inlet manifold gradually clean up a little bit of its own accord over time with cleaner air going through? Is there any additive worth adding (Disco 2 Td5) to the fuel that will help clean the injectors (although I don't know if they're dirty) and benefit the vehicle or is it largely hocus pocus and a waste of money?
 
it is my understanding that additives are just concentrated forms of the detergents already in the fuel, decent quality diesel or petrol from a big brand (shell optimax, BP ultimate etc etc), a few tanks worth, should suffice but you can stick some redex in the tank if you are really worried. a TINY bit of two stroke in the tank with the fuel will also quieten down injectors as it increases the lubricity of the system.. it works very well on the 2.0hdi units that peugeot produce and increases fuel economy a little (i get about an extra 50 miles on a full tank of a long run if i put a little 2stroke in the tank with my 306 2.0hdi)

as for the gunk in the inlet system, there are inlet manifold cleaners but spray it in post MAF or you'll destroy the MAF itself.
 
EGR removed and all going well but didn't remove and clean the inlet manifold due to time and the fact I'd have to get a new inlet manifold gasket. Now, will the inlet manifold gradually clean up a little bit of its own accord over time with cleaner air going through? Is there any additive worth adding (Disco 2 Td5) to the fuel that will help clean the injectors (although I don't know if they're dirty) and benefit the vehicle or is it largely hocus pocus and a waste of money?

think there’s very mixed reviews , i useto out millers in but didn’t find any difference what so ever

when i’ve used the super diesel it seems to run slightly better but that could just be physiological

assume u know about the new upcoming mot changes and egrs , if the mot tester can see they’ve been blanked or removed it will fail
 
think there’s very mixed reviews , i useto out millers in but didn’t find any difference what so ever

when i’ve used the super diesel it seems to run slightly better but that could just be physiological

assume u know about the new upcoming mot changes and egrs , if the mot tester can see they’ve been blanked or removed it will fail

But I'm in Australia remember! I will soon be carefully cleaning the EGR and storing it for later, just in case.
 
Injectors run at that high a pressure they should in theory self clean and never become gunked up as these additive firms will have you believe.
 
Injectors run at that high a pressure they should in theory self clean and never become gunked up as these additive firms will have you believe.

The injectors still get heat soak & with the lack of air flow they get dirty with unburnt fuel already in the cylinder
when the engine is turned off even worse on vehicles that do short journey's ;)
 
have heard ref injectors that the ultrasonic baths are supposed to be very good

along with using a compressor and shrieder valve, to blow them through as pumping injector cleaner through them

alas though don’t know personally how effective they are
 
But don't older vehicles (non common rail?) run at lower pressures? I use Millers additive every couple of tanks, and it sounds quieter and runs better. On fuel filter change, I fill the new filter with injector cleaner. If it does any good, I don't know, but it makes me feel better....
 
Quality fuel is the key to a clean burn, also a clean air and fuel filters. Discount fuel is bad for them. Also if you use a cetane booster. It works and works well
https://powerservice.com/psp_product/diesel-kleen-cetane-boost/

also seen those flushing machines for engines, personally i wouldn’t ever use one , know u didn’t say anything about them

totally agree ref the quality of the fuel, i staybaway from supermarket fuel where i can , don’t know if u heard some years back one supermarket filled up the tanks with the wrong fuel and caused many 1,000s of engine damage
 
But don't older vehicles (non common rail?) run at lower pressures? I use Millers additive every couple of tanks, and it sounds quieter and runs better. On fuel filter change, I fill the new filter with injector cleaner. If it does any good, I don't know, but it makes me feel better....

i useto use millers , also felt better but maybe that was down to it raising the octane rating ???

often wonder how the millers and plus diesel compare
 
also seen those flushing machines for engines, personally i wouldn’t ever use one , know u didn’t say anything about them

totally agree ref the quality of the fuel, i staybaway from supermarket fuel where i can , don’t know if u heard some years back one supermarket filled up the tanks with the wrong fuel and caused many 1,000s of engine damage
Never seen a flushing machine. I just know what works, and them when a 35 year experience Diesel mechanic tells you what to after clean the egr out for you. And he says use good fuel and the cleaner I linked to. to every other tank of fuel and a good shot of the juice and all is well.250,000 miles on my diesel and all is well Just oil changes as needed, and fuel filter change every fall just before winter freeze up
 
I'm itching to test this stuff on my Disco but want to do her Pug 206 first.

How to clean diesel fuel injectors without removing parts - YouTube
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vVyin2n24X8
Did you see this video?

He compares the cylinder head of a lawn mover BEFORE and AFTER seafoam. The sea-foam Iooks to have made a bit of a difference - but as one of the commentators noted, any carbon deposits in this part of the engine (forged under heat and pressure) tend to be denser - finer, tougher crystalline structure. I seen a Liqui-Moly product that you spray into the intake downstream of the MAF and it gets good reviews, but it's not cheap? Would just love to see an independent, lab-based assessment of some of the additive engine cleaners.
 
EGR removed and all going well but didn't remove and clean the inlet manifold due to time and the fact I'd have to get a new inlet manifold gasket. Now, will the inlet manifold gradually clean up a little bit of its own accord over time with cleaner air going through? Is there any additive worth adding (Disco 2 Td5) to the fuel that will help clean the injectors (although I don't know if they're dirty) and benefit the vehicle or is it largely hocus pocus and a waste of money?
Hard to say chemically and scientifically, but just in my experience the answer is no, for oil additives at least.
I owned an "E" type Jag for 15 years, got talked into putting a very expensive "liquid teflon" additive into the engine early in my ownership, I had the sump and head off to do timing chains after a few years of running, found the "additive" just sitting in the bottom of the sump, in its own stratified layer like a sludge, hadn't mixed at all well with the engine oil and seemingly never drained out properly with oil changes. Never used additives of any sort since then, oil, fuel or anything except what a manufacturer calls for, except I always use full synthetic engine and gearbox oils, (but that's a subject best stayed away from on here). Use the best quality oil in the recommended range spec'd by the oem you can afford is a good policy.
Your inlet manifold is only subject to incoming air, to remove deposits it may be better to remove the manifold and give it a caustic bath to remove the baked on crud, as we used to do with our ancient two stroke motorcycle exhausts back in the 50's, before "low ash" two stroke oils were developed.
Additives could come into the "smoke and mirrors" area.
 
Hard to say chemically and scientifically, but just in my experience the answer is no, for oil additives at least.
I owned an "E" type Jag for 15 years, got talked into putting a very expensive "liquid teflon" additive into the engine early in my ownership, I had the sump and head off to do timing chains after a few years of running, found the "additive" just sitting in the bottom of the sump, in its own stratified layer like a sludge, hadn't mixed at all well with the engine oil and seemingly never drained out properly with oil changes. Never used additives of any sort since then, oil, fuel or anything except what a manufacturer calls for, except I always use full synthetic engine and gearbox oils, (but that's a subject best stayed away from on here). Use the best quality oil in the recommended range spec'd by the oem you can afford is a good policy.
Your inlet manifold is only subject to incoming air, to remove deposits it may be better to remove the manifold and give it a caustic bath to remove the baked on crud, as we used to do with our ancient two stroke motorcycle exhausts back in the 50's, before "low ash" two stroke oils were developed.
Additives could come into the "smoke and mirrors" area.

As a chemical engineer I certainly have doubts around most of the additives - some almost go as far as claiming they can cure baldness as well! On the subject of caustic cleaning in caustic baths, I knew a young apprentice who used a large industrial hot caustic bath to clean his aluminium engine block (he was "restoring" a vehicle) - he left it on the Friday after work, but when he came back on Monday to retrieve it, it had turned to sludge! Big sign on the caustic bath warned not to clean any components containing aluminium! You live and you learn!
 
As a chemical engineer I certainly have doubts around most of the additives - some almost go as far as claiming they can cure baldness as well! On the subject of caustic cleaning in caustic baths, I knew a young apprentice who used a large industrial hot caustic bath to clean his aluminium engine block (he was "restoring" a vehicle) - he left it on the Friday after work, but when he came back on Monday to retrieve it, it had turned to sludge! Big sign on the caustic bath warned not to clean any components containing aluminium! You live and you learn!
Oh!!! Some other type of bath then, motorcycle exhausts were steel "when I were a lad", the caustic bath worked good on the baked on carbon deposits.
Used a common brand oven cleaner to clean up the alloy gearbox housing of my old Triumph TR 3a lots of years back, not too sure what that goop consists of.
 
Did you see this video?

He compares the cylinder head of a lawn mover BEFORE and AFTER seafoam. The sea-foam Iooks to have made a bit of a difference - but as one of the commentators noted, any carbon deposits in this part of the engine (forged under heat and pressure) tend to be denser - finer, tougher crystalline structure. I seen a Liqui-Moly product that you spray into the intake downstream of the MAF and it gets good reviews, but it's not cheap? Would just love to see an independent, lab-based assessment of some of the additive engine cleaners.


Yes, I have looked up dozens of the SeaFoam vids after stumbling on the first one a couple of months ago, to be honest I tend not to ask about additives here as you can get a right old roasting from the "Snake Oil" brigade who still think electronic ignition in distributors to get rid of points to be sacriligeous and a perversion of nature :eek:

Hard to say chemically and scientifically, but just in my experience the answer is no, for oil additives at least.
I owned an "E" type Jag for 15 years, got talked into putting a very expensive "liquid teflon" additive into the engine early in my ownership, I had the sump and head off to do timing chains after a few years of running, found the "additive" just sitting in the bottom of the sump, in its own stratified layer like a sludge, hadn't mixed at all well with the engine oil and seemingly never drained out properly with oil changes. Never used additives of any sort since then, oil, fuel or anything except what a manufacturer calls for, except I always use full synthetic engine and gearbox oils, (but that's a subject best stayed away from on here). Use the best quality oil in the recommended range spec'd by the oem you can afford is a good policy.
Your inlet manifold is only subject to incoming air, to remove deposits it may be better to remove the manifold and give it a caustic bath to remove the baked on crud, as we used to do with our ancient two stroke motorcycle exhausts back in the 50's, before "low ash" two stroke oils were developed.
Additives could come into the "smoke and mirrors" area.

There is an American product from Lucas Lucas oil Heavy Duty oil stabilizer Does it really work? Friction test that I want to try on the old 200Tdi, I've used molyslip in the past with good results in quieting the valve train and also using Wynns "Super Charge" for oil, I used that on the little Peugeot 206 a few months ago after the second oil change and it really helped to reduce some of the rough noises that came out of the engine, smoother and much more refined after that, just the SeaFoam treatment now to try and loosen up and dispose of some of the built up carbons in the rings and combustion chambers and I think it will be back up to a reasonable standard of health.

Obviously I would rather strip it and rebuild it but I also have to factor in the life span of the vehicle, 19yrs old, very basic 1.6 petrol car, doubt it will see another 5yrs under my ownership as I hope to move her over to an all electric car within 2yrs but it is her learners car, my 200Tdi Discovery is being built to take us through the other side of the zombie apocalypse and nothing will stop me from rebuilding the old lump if ever it needs done.

The obvious thing on older trucks is to up the maintenance levels and change oils more frequently than the manual states and especially if they get worked hard in harsh terrains, nothing will last forever when test to it's limits regular ;):)
 
Oh!!! Some other type of bath then, motorcycle exhausts were steel "when I were a lad", the caustic bath worked good on the baked on carbon deposits.
Used a common brand oven cleaner to clean up the alloy gearbox housing of my old Triumph TR 3a lots of years back, not too sure what that goop consists of.

Caustic fine for cast iron/mild steel et al., BUT NOT with aluminium.
 

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