mad85

mad85

Active Member
Hello, I have recently upgraded the valve block to hydraulic fittings and now i have zero leaks that I can see. The ACE worked faultlessly for a glorious few weeks and suddenly im getting an intermittent red warning. switching it off and on again seem to 'fix' it.

I also had a yellow warning for a few days which went away. when I read the faults there was one fault which caught my eye : battery voltage low. According to my aftermarket battery gauge the battery voltage is correct however I understand things like a dodgy earth or corrosion in one of the fuse boxes can affect a particular circuit. Does this make sense? and if yes where would be the best place to check the voltage going to the ace system? maybe the orange plug under the coolant reservoir?

I havent been able to read the faults with the red warning light on yet but though about checking voltages first
 
the other errors were:

fault 47-07 The main relay test has failed
fault 33-06 direction control valve fault
fault 23-04 pressure signal out of range
fault 20-04 pressure control valve fault
fault 18-04 hydraulic or mechanic fault in pressure control system
 
Did you know that if you run the test sequence in a car park noone will park next to you.
 
mad85 said:
what do you mean?
Click to expand...
The test sequence that you can initiate with nanocom/Hawkeye diagnostic tools will "rock" the vehicle side to side as it test sit.. hence no one wanting to park next to it ;)

Out of curiosity have you cleaned out the mesh screen filter on the ACE block since? When I machined mine out it was still collecting ally filings weeks after.

I'd check the plugs going into the ACE block.. and assuming you have a diagnostics tool it will let you test each individual directional control valve and relays etc, make sure they all operate as they should.

I'd imagine best place to test for voltage would be on the ACE block connectors.. unless there's a possible fault with the ACE ECU it self, but seems doubtful since it's only now happening after working on the block.
 
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thanks, i do have nanocom, is there any documentation on how to conduct this test? and how much space should i leave? i plan on doing it in my garage as im currently stuck in quarantine anyway :(
 
mad85 said:
thanks, i do have nanocom, is there any documentation on how to conduct this test? and how much space should i leave? i plan on doing it in my garage as im currently stuck in quarantine anyway :(
Click to expand...
Hmm.. I wouldn't be able to tell you as I've only used Hawkeye, I'd imagine you could download the manual for the nano and see if its in there, or search the forum.
As for how much space.. nothing crazy, its probably 6 inches of movement at most.
 
If the fault codes were retrieved with nanocom then it's very likely that they are wrong, remove the ACE relay, bridge the thicker cavities in the fusebox(where the relay contact goes) with a wire then read inputs with nanocom and post the results here and i'll tell you more
 
Transducer can cause this if it’s knackered. Get hold of a known working one to test. I bought a new one when i had this issue and it solved it.
 
thanks for all the input. so during the weekend i pulled out and cleaned the connectors, also cleaned the filter although it did not have any visible debris (i had used a tonne of brake cleaner cleaning the block after tapping it). Cleaning the connectors seems to have made a bit of a difference as Im not getting as many red warning lights (still happened once). Also getting intermittent yellow warning! While I had the yellow warning I jumped the relay and took the following data:

Battery Voltage: 14.61V
DCV1 0.00Amp
DCV2 0.01Amp
PCV 0.00Amp
Pressure Sensor 0.41bar
Residual Prerssure 20bar
Upper Accelerometer 0.02
Lower Accelerometer 0.01

Also had the following errors:
Fault 18-04 Hydraulic or mechanic fault in pressre control system
Fault 22-04 hydraulic pressure too high
Fault 23-04 pressure signal out of range
Fault 33-06 directional control valve fault
Fault 42-07 hydraulic pressure too low
Fault 45-07 battery voltage too low

Any ideas what could cause these issues? planning on checking the resistance of the block components at the ecu some time this week
 
Seems that DCV1 is gone or the circuit interrupted, also the pressure transducer is suspect, here are hawkeye readings from a well working system at idle:

ACE INPUTS
1. DCVs (both) - .001A
2. Pressure control valve: 0 - .012A
3. Pressure sensor: varies between 16 and 19 but if it's out of that range the transducer is gone
4. Residual pressure: between 3 - 6 Bar but can be higher after the vehicle was driven or the ambient temp is low
5. System pressure: around 6 Bar fluctuating
6. Accelerometers: 0.01

for troubleshooting purpose: the resistance of both DCVs(top of the valve block, DCV1-toward front; DCV2-toward rear)= 2.7 Ohm, pressure control solenoid(on the left side of block) = 5.7 Ohm.
 
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