Well I just checked mine, The ABS light stays on until you drive off, all the way from ignition on to move off, it does not go out not even for a milli second untill you drive off.
VOSA will have to re-write the docs on this one, Either that or all freelanders will fail on this.

I presume you have a petrol version as you have O2 sensors?

Maybe your MOT station hates freelanders.
 
Maybe the ABS light dosen't blink off if a fault code is stored then?
I just had mine reset so I can't say if mine did that or not...
 
Mine stays on as stated at the start if the thread but the guy who works in the garage next door said he will plug in his diagnostics and clear any faults so I will let you know if it goes off before coming back on again when it's done.
 
Yes it is a 1.8 petrol and if you read the thread by mantamad that is the correct sequence .as the faults were stored the check light does not flash during the switch on sequence it seems, thus making it an MOT failure so after the technician reset the ABS ecu everything is in sequence and no more probs (fingers crossed).:doh::doh:
 
I would say that if the ABS light goes out at 5mph then the MOT guy should not fail it. Just because a fault is logged does not mean it's still faulty otherwise the light would stay on!
 
Hi Luggsey
I agree with you but VOSA have probably put there advisory document together with the help of Landrover, who have probably said if this particular sequence does not occur there is a fault with the system,irrespective if there is no actual fault as the ABS light goes out after the initial move off ,i wonder if it was set up as a money making exercise because they dont release info for so many years as far as i know and i do believe there is a charge to other garages for info.someone will probably correct me if i am wrong .CORE it's a conspiracy theory by Landrover,LOL:doh::doh:
 
This is quite interesting because my landrover was In for MOT two weeks ago and passed. I recently fitted a second hand hub because I changed the IRD and shagged the ABS sensor in the process. After fitting a hub with a working abs sensor the warning lights went out but having never noticed the ABS light going out and coming back on it leads me to believe after reading some of the posts the ECU has a stored fault. I will have the fault cleared and it will cost me a drink probably, does this make the car unroadworthy if the fault is not cleared? I think not. It seems bizarre that VOSA would issue a technical bulletin and make it an MOT failure. And also considering mine passed and yours was failed on this and there the same car, same year, same engine same spec, how can VOSA Justify this? Clearly a money making exercise by VOSA I'm with you on that. And when I have the fault cleared will the car drive anymore safely? Hmmmmm
 
If I disconnect an abs sensor, and start it up, is that enough to create an abs fault? If so I'll do it to mine and see if the sequence of on-off-on then off at 5mph changes. Then clear the errror code wiff me hawkeye then see if the sequence changes again.
 
Hippo said:
If I disconnect an abs sensor, and start it up, is that enough to create an abs fault? If so I'll do it to mine and see if the sequence of on-off-on then off at 5mph changes. Then clear the errror code wiff me hawkeye then see if the sequence changes again.
Click to expand...


You would have to drive it a few yards to log the fault though....:cool:
 
Chaser said:
You still drivin Hippo? :D
Click to expand...
Yer could of said stop. :p

When starting ma hippo (2001 v6 wiff MK20 ABS) the light sequence wiff no faults is as follows:
Turn on ignition: TC on, ABS on, Hill orange on and Hill green on,
Then ABS goes orf, then comes on again.
Then TC, Hill orange and Hill green all switch orf. ABS stays on.
When starting the engine, ABS stays on until you drive forward, then it turns orf at 5mph, as per the video below, which is the same one I posted before.

YouTube - Freelander 1 2001 v6 cold and warm engine start

When disconnecting the front right hand side ABS sensor:
Turn on ignition: TC on, ABS on, Hill orange on and Hill green on,
Then Hill green goes orf.
Light sequence stays like this.
When starting the engine, TC, ABS and Hill orange stay on.
When driving forward TC, ABS and Hill orange stay on.

So yer dun’t need ta drive it ta get this particular fault ta show.

When refitting the ABS connector to clear the physical fault, the light sequence is the same as above. Hence:
Turn on ignition: TC on ABS on, Hill orange on and Hill green on,
Then Hill green goes orf.
Light sequence stays like this.
When starting the engine, TC, ABS and Hill orange stay on.
When driving forward above 5mph TC, ABS and Hill orange stay on.

When using Hawkeye (v4 software) to look at the fault (2001 v6 wiff MK20 ABS):
When I go into the Freelander 1 \ ABS \ MK20 ABS option it puts all the lights on: TC on, ABS on, Hill orange on and Hill green on. When looking at the error codes I get “fault 5DA0 front right sensor electrical fault”. After refitting the ABS sensor connector previously removed, and clearing the fault codes wiff me Hawkeye, when leaving the ABS \ MK20 option menu it does another “start light” sequence. As there’s no faults, the lights do the following:

TC on, ABS on, Hill orange on and Hill green on,
Then ABS goes orf, then comes on again.
Then TC, Hill orange and Hill green all switch orf. ABS stays on.
When staring the engine, ABS orange stays on until you drive forward, then it turns orf at 5mph.

In conclusion: we is all wrong. :eek: :eek: :)
 
Last edited:
I think the ABS light flashing or not flashing may be dependent on year of Freelander 1. Older models being different to newer ones. This comes from reading an ABS wall chart fer hippo’s in me local mot test station, when ma hippo was busy passing his mot. But I can’t remember precise detail. Does we have a garage monkey or mot tester on ere that could have a quick read of their chart for us? Or a quick pic of the Freelander section on the chart?
 
Un here's the meaing of the lights, from the rave disk:

ABS = yellow
ETC = yellow
HDC fail = yellow
HDC information = green

VTkjDM9.jpg


KJ2Y0aL.jpg


5XrPYKV.jpg
 
Last edited:
Hmmmm seems that I will have faults stored, but mine also passed the MOT,

I know there are faults stored because:

1. my brake light switch was faulty once, and:
2. my ABS sensor whas also faulty once, now replaced.

I have never had the faults cleared, as have no means of doing so, but all seems ok now.

So the little flash on off is the correct sequence for no faults logged abs ecu.
 
Yer but no but yer but.....
Usually changing or in your case reconnecting an abs sensor the lights will go back to normal on their own so I don't know why it needed clearing in your case?
Rave describes the abs warning light sequence of both early and late systems and both apparently should go off then on again during the ignition on test.
Seems odd that some peeps have no need for ecu reset and others do....unless its the early system that needs reset but not the later Mk25 one. Whatever it is, it's a git that you can have an MOT fail when there isn't a current fault but just an ecu memory needing erasing.
 
Well errrr. yes, I just replaced my faulty brake sensor, and the lights went out (2 amigos) then a few months later, (3 amigos) replaced abs sensor lights went out.

But never noticed the on off on ignition thing, as when I bought the car, the brake light switch was faulty.

So according to rave, if no faults are stored, this is the correct sequence, Its just so suttle you would not notice it.

So infact the OP MOT station must be correct.

If I get the abs codes cleared then I will also get the quick on/off abs light on ignition switch on.

11 year old freelander, and have only learnt this today, as have most others presumably, the OP`s MOT station must be spot on. even though now my abs works fine, its just showing there was a fault.

You learn something evey day.
 
yeah but we still haven't found a reason for some returning to the correct sequence after a repair WITHOUT needing any kind of reset?
 
So hows about I do a similar test but this time disconnect me brake pedal switch, un see if the fault clears by itself? Will also see what the part number is on the abs pump thing to check what system it is.
 
Well you've done enough Hippo, it's just something that folks should be aware of.

If you have to drive to extinguish the abs light you have passive sensors and external reluctors which is the Mk20 system.

I know of one owner who had a fault code for and replaced the abs modulator and didn't need anything resetting afterwards. :confused:
 
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