Did a bit more searching on the web last night, and came across a similar problem and their solution was the large fuse under the bonnet had blown....

If I disconnect things, like the pump or ecu, leave it a while and then plug them back in, the fault clears and the vehicle drives correctly.

The instant that I stop and restart the engine though the light is back on
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So I managed to get this fixed now
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It was the big 30amp fuse out under the bonnet which controls the ABS pump. All good
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no such luck for me, as mine was fine....so still no clue.......
 
Tell me about it, I am now at a loss, so have given up and am going to see a garage on Sat morning to get it plugged into their computer to see what that brings up, and will no doubt cost me a shed load too :rolleyes:
 
relays click quickly if no output for current ,like light relay does when bulb blows ,i would think pump might be poorly worth putting direct feed to it to be sure ,diagnostics will come up with a load of faults most of which wont be but because of this fault
 
Good thinking - will connect a feed from my battery tonight - should I just here it 'whirr' if its working ok?
 
ecu would not switch relay on so no clicking must be main power side not enough power through relay either poor current to or no where to go as blown bulb breaking circuit or in your case something that needs power ie pump
 
But I do have clicking at startup :confused:

ok, so when I run a feed to the pump, I will also check with a meter to see if there is any power going to the pump connector too. Should this power up on ignition on, or with the engine running?
 
you say the code 1-2 came up and it wasnt on your list, Did you know theres quite a few different lists out there, I had a similiar problem once, Sierraferry (the translvanian) emailed me the right list for my motor maybe PM and ask for the right list for yours?

You may have the wrong one? worth a go............
 
anything is worth a go...but I do have quite a few different lists, and not one of the contains 1-2.

Also all my searches on forums and google have drawn a blank - but what ever it is, I cannot clear it by removing the link wire whilst its flashing.....
 
Hi ,
Fault Blink Code 1-2 does not exist .
Do a google search for "MERITOR WABCO Maintenance Manual 38 Hydraulic ABS for Medium-Duty Trucks, Buses and Motor Home Chassis "
This is the manufactures maintenance manual for Disco 1 ABS .You can prove this for your self by checking the ABS type code on the ABS ECU in the front passenger compartment behind / underneath the glove box
Regards Jonathan
 
I guessed it never existed with not being able to find it, but that doesn't stop the bloomin light blinking out that code :confused:
 
** UPDATE **

I have put a direct feed to the pump, and it works fine.

Checked the feed to the pump, and it has 12.65v, the same as the battery voltage I used to make the pump work.

However when you connect the supply from the plug the voltage drops down to zero, so no pump running and hence the error message.....so its a supply problem somewhere not keeping the voltage, or does the pump only run when the abs kicks in?

Any ideas??????
 
The pump should only run when required , could be a duff relay or a connector (dirt , corrosion, broken wire) or ECU but if it is one of those 3, I would expect other blink codes.Regards Jonathan
 
So,mate....back where you started with clicking relays and codes that dont exist ! :(:(:(

even so, I am glad some more have weighed in with advice , this must be driving the OP nuts....but at least he knows now that the codes REALLY dont exist !Just not why they are coming up :confused:

It does sound,though,from what JM said that load that the relay is switching is faulty,ie, the pump. How one proceeds from this other than replacing the pump I do not know.Sorry Stu :(
 
All sorted :D

The fault codes where pointing to a sticking pump, but I knew it wasnt the pump as works fine with 12v, so guy in garage said that the 2 wires to the pump are just a positive and earth which made me think that not enough juice was being produced.

So I ran a new negative earth direct from my second battery, as nice and close, to the pump and hey presto, jobs good one, no more clicking relays, abs light goes out, and abs works.

Havent a clue where the pump earths, but this way saves a lot of tracing wires ;)

Top marks to Ian at Fosstec, who has just recently setup for all his help this morning :cool:
 
a fast clicking relay is often caused by no current flow of switched output like a blown bulb or in your csae poor earth from pump
 
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