Datatek said:
I fitted after market sensors to both mine with no problems .Make sure they are pushed fully home until they touch the reluctor ring.
Click to expand...
Hi Datatek,
Yes they are fully home. I cleaned all the loose rust off the hubs and reluctor rings as well when I had them off the vehicle, so I don't think the sensors have picked up any fragments of rust. I think I might just disconnect the battery for a while and reset the system and then see what happens.
 
alanlucas said:
Hi Datatek,
Yes they are fully home. I cleaned all the loose rust off the hubs and reluctor rings as well when I had them off the vehicle, so I don't think the sensors have picked up any fragments of rust. I think I might just disconnect the battery for a while and reset the system and then see what happens.
Click to expand...
If the teeth on the reluctor ring are badly rusted so some of the teeth are a different height, that could cause the problem. I replaced the CV joint and reluctor ring on the last one I did.
 
Datatek said:
If you are getting a voltage/speed reading from the sensor. I would suggest the fault lies elsewhere. The P38 ABS sensor is a very simple device, basically just a coil of wire round a soft iron core.
Click to expand...
Before i ever had any problems, nanocom reported 2.33v at each sensor. Started getting the dash light on and replaced the sensor. Dash light stopped coming on for a few days, until this afternoon. Nanocom reports 2.25v on the recently replaced sensor, 2.33 on the others. That's stationary.
 
kermit_rr said:
Before i ever had any problems, nanocom reported 2.33v at each sensor. Started getting the dash light on and replaced the sensor. Dash light stopped coming on for a few days, until this afternoon. Nanocom reports 2.25v on the recently replaced sensor, 2.33 on the others. That's stationary.
Click to expand...
I have exactly the same situation and all is good.
 
Just wondering if a faulty pressure switch would throw up abs and tc lights ? Accumulator was changed before lockdown in 2020
 
brianp38dse said:
The brake peddle switch if not set correctly will throw an abs light
Click to expand...
yes i've read about that - but how likely is it to fail in service ? Could be the abs ecu on its way out as well. I think its a trip to my local garage so he can hook it up to some proper diagnostic kit as there are too many possible causes to start throwing parts at it.
 
Same pressure switch as on my old 1990 mk3 granada abs Ate Teves mk II brake system. Identical pump as well but modulator is different. NOS pressure switch on eBay last night for £62 posted. In fact I fitted a Wabco P38 accumulator to the Granada a year or two back as neither Ford nor Saab or GM make them anymore. Back to the P38, Landrover specialist tested system today and the resistance values between the 2 front aftermarket sensors vary massively, so going to junk them and have ordered oem spec at £50 a pop. He is going to fit them FOC as well which saves me a job.
 
Last edited:
oem spec sensors turned up - identical to the ones i fitted. Checked resistance myself on existing ones, n/s 1100 ohms, o/s 950 ohms. Is that enough of an imbalance to trigger the abs and traction lights ? I thought anywhere between 950 and 1100 was within specifications. Gonna remove them and check the ends to see if they have worn through due to being in contact with the reluctor rings (which I doubt) and also check for debris on the reluctor rings. Can't remember now if i greased the reluctor ring teeth with moly grease or not which may have attracted dirt. Guy at garage says not to push sensors right up to toothed ring but to slip a sheet of paper between sensor and ring to give the correct air gap. New sensors measure 1002 and 999 ohms.
Comments ?
 
I received an allmakes sensor today, 1230 ohms approx.
I read somewhere they fit flush to the ring, the dimple underneath the sensor keeps it in the right place
 
kermit_rr said:
I received an allmakes sensor today, 1230 ohms approx.
I read somewhere they fit flush to the ring, the dimple underneath the sensor keeps it in the right place
Click to expand...
Flush to the ring? Not sure what you mean by that, but the sensor should be pushed in until it touches the reluctor ring. If the bush into which the sensor fits is badly rusted, it maybe too tight which could be destructive, I had to hone the bushes on mine to get a good fit.
 
Them Dremel things with a drum sander are good to clean out the iron bushes in the hub. Cheap copy ones from Aldi and the like are fine too.
I pushed the sensor in as far as it would go then eased it out a smidgen.
I intend to pull them all out and clean/regrease every engine oil change cos the ballache when they seize in I don't want again.:cool:
 
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