Definitely invest in the slab, ensure a damp-proof membrane is included as otherwise it'll be damp inside the building. And get a decent power supply out there.

As far as the construction is concerned I went timber when I built mine, as that's what I'm used to. For the roof I used corrugated bitumen sheets (Onduline/Coroline type stuff) over an OSB deck. Walls clad with shiplap boarding.

Might build the next one out of blocks for a change, although I would probably still clad in timber as I prefer the look. Still need a wood framed roof anyhow, I'm not a fan of flat roofs so double-pitched is the way forward.

Under construction:

IMG_0351.JPG


Inside once filled with crap:

IMG_0354.JPG


Putting decent power supply in:

IMG_0353.JPG
 
Retroanaconda said:
Definitely invest in the slab, ensure a damp-proof membrane is included as otherwise it'll be damp inside the building. And get a decent power supply out there.

As far as the construction is concerned I went timber when I built mine, as that's what I'm used to. For the roof I used corrugated bitumen sheets (Onduline/Coroline type stuff) over an OSB deck. Walls clad with shiplap boarding.

Might build the next one out of blocks for a change, although I would probably still clad in timber as I prefer the look. Still need a wood framed roof anyhow, I'm not a fan of flat roofs so double-pitched is the way forward.

Under construction:

View attachment 116933

Inside once filled with crap:

View attachment 116935

Putting decent power supply in:

View attachment 116934
Click to expand...

Nice work bud and thanks for the reply and information.
I work with a builder as a day job labouring and we do most things and can do a lot of it myself, or a little assistance.
Not a fan of flat roofs myself either, and we put our roofs on ourselves at work, but building timber framed from the ground up I'm not sure I could do, or a lot of head scratching.

Albeit now it has been mentioned it is probably the cheapest least problematic way of building, without the need for planning as a bonus.
I did think about cladding the block work myself, was my gaffa who said render it, and to be honest I think I'd prefer it cladded.
If you don't mind me asking, do you know roughly what it cost to build?
 
aaronmorris said:
Nice work bud and thanks for the reply and information.
I work with a builder as a day job labouring and we do most things and can do a lot of it myself, or a little assistance.
Not a fan of flat roofs myself either, and we put our roofs on ourselves at work, but building timber framed from the ground up I'm not sure I could do, or a lot of head scratching.

Albeit now it has been mentioned it is probably the cheapest least problematic way of building, without the need for planning as a bonus.
I did think about cladding the block work myself, was my gaffa who said render it, and to be honest I think I'd prefer it cladded.
Click to expand...
If your only having single block it would be warmer and dryer cladded.
 
Last edited:
Alibro said:
If your only having single block it would be warmer and dryer.
Click to expand...

Timber would be warmer and dryer yes?
If I knew I was staying here it would be built cavity wall and likely twice the size, but I know I wont be and I just want something to get me by for the next few years that is better than I currently have.
Which is getting worse and now has a leaky roof :confused:
 
Not sure to be honest, between £2k and £3k in all I'd say. But I didn't lay the slab as it was already there - that would probably add another £1k+ if I were to do it properly.

Planning requirements apply regardless of construction, if you're close enough to a boundary, or going big enough, or high enough, you'll need planning permission. With your neighbours I'd probably get it anyway, or at least get confirmation in writing from the council that you don't need it if that's the case.
 
Retroanaconda said:
Not sure to be honest, between £2k and £3k in all I'd say. But I didn't lay the slab as it was already there - that would probably add another £1k+ if I were to do it properly.

Planning requirements apply regardless of construction, if you're close enough to a boundary, or going big enough, or high enough, you'll need planning permission. With your neighbours I'd probably get it anyway, or at least get confirmation in writing from the council that you don't need it if that's the case.
Click to expand...

Planning is needed if you want to put a pitched roof on within 2m of a boundary. I could build next to the boundary with a flat roof without planning permission. At least around here anyway, with restricted building heights, 3.5m ridge height from memory, or 3m maximum height for flat roof.
Planning and building control is needed on anything above 30sq m, which I intend to keep under.
And as far as I understand it, if it is built out of timber it is classed as a temporary structure and thus doesn't need planning, but as you say, it would probably be worth getting anyhow, especially with my neighbours.

I will speak to the council and try and get some conformation, and thanks for the info ref cost, we was thinking it would cost around £5-6k start to finish built single skin brick/block work, reinforced slab, pitched and tiled roof, and planning etc.. But then it depends how mad I end up going with the finish.
 
A garage is not a temporary structure, I don't think you'll get away with it via that route. You may fall under permitted development due to roof/ridge height etc. though as you say.

You'll know this as a builder but single skin brick/block walls need some kind of external covering to stop damp penetration from driving rain etc. which is one advantage of timber as with proper external cladding and a breathable membrane it will be wind/water tight and easily insulateable.
 
Retroanaconda said:
A garage is not a temporary structure, I don't think you'll get away with it via that route. You may fall under permitted development due to roof/ridge height etc. though as you say.

You'll know this as a builder but single skin brick/block walls need some kind of external covering to stop damp penetration from driving rain etc. which is one advantage of timber as with proper external cladding and a breathable membrane it will be wind/water tight and easily insulateable.
Click to expand...

No I agree, which ever way I go I want everything above board before I start as It isn't worth not doing and having to possibly have to take it down.
The cost of planning is small in the grand scheme of things.
 
Been doing some reading and I was wrong. Where I want to build my garage, (1 metre ish from a boundary) I will need planning no matter what it is built out of.
No bother, was originally going to anyway.
And the more I think about this timber framed malarkey the more it seems a good idea, both on cost and time scale wise. Easier to insulate, and easier to make exactly as I want inside.
 
When I built my garage I did it single skin brickwork where seen and blocks against an adjacent garage with a couple of piers each long side. I used one pair of piers to mount an rsj lifting beam. I gave the outside a good coating of aquaseal to help shed rain. The roof was tapered joists to give a fall, 1/2 inch osb board, treated battens to fix preformed metal sheets with rigid insulation between. I got the biggest windows I could scrounge 2 nd hand off a glazing company on one wall.
I had no problems with damp or condensation, and while I can't say it was warm inside in the coldest weather it wasn't too bad that I couldn't be out there.
Thats all balls though as I really cant remember how much the materials cost, and I did all the work on my own with the exception of a mate giving me a hand to cast the slab.
 
aaronmorris said:
Been doing some reading and I was wrong. Where I want to build my garage, (1 metre ish from a boundary) I will need planning no matter what it is built out of.
No bother, was originally going to anyway.
And the more I think about this timber framed malarkey the more it seems a good idea, both on cost and time scale wise. Easier to insulate, and easier to make exactly as I want inside.
Click to expand...

For what its worth I think your right looking at timber if its a short term solution. BUT I think anything within 1m of a boundary will need to be non-combustible.
 
frog hopper said:
For what its worth I think your right looking at timber if its a short term solution. BUT I think anything within 1m of a boundary will need to be non-combustible.
Click to expand...

Yep, that is something else I learnt tonight whilst reading up.
Garden is 8m wide, I want a shed/garage 5m wide, so it can go 1500 from each boundary if I wanted to.
I wanted it at least a metre away anyway so I've got a decent path all the way around it, and somewhere to store some of that extra crap :oops:
 
This weekend has mainly been wet, windy and cold here, so not a great deal has been done at all.
Some seam sealer turned up in the post on Friday, some 3 weeks after ordering, so today I decided to spend and hour or two doing the bulkhead.
A somewhat messy, horrible job.
Done by putting masking tape either side of what needs to be sealed, bought a type that could be applied with a mastic gun, it was then brushed out flat and to the edge of the tape, tape removed and nice straight lines given.
Or that was the plan anyway, masking tape was old and wasn't sticking very well, seam sealer is like shit to a blanket and when brushed pulled the tape off.
Some of it is better than other bits, but once I had started their was no going back or changing it, that would have been even bigger of a mess :eek:

image.jpeg


image.jpeg
 
I use some little plastic glue spreaders that I get from school. Next time I'm passing I'll drop you a few off. They can be easily cut to form a small bead too, which helps sometimes .. ;)

If you need a hand labouring etc on the garage build, shout up .. I helped Tim when we built his, but that was blockwork .. :)
 
Wish I'd used seam sealer on mine before it got painted. I've got a small leak in to the drivers footwell. Just small, but annoying. Stupid mistake :(

When my lads were little I built them a small bunk house on a raised deck. It had two bunks in and you could put a double air bed on the floor. The walls were just half inch tongue and groove cladding. If the lads were camping out with a few mates, even on really cold nights, they had to have one of the windows propped open cos it was too hot inside. Wood is a very good insulator. :)
 
Retroanaconda said:
Definitely invest in the slab, ensure a damp-proof membrane is included as otherwise it'll be damp inside the building. And get a decent power supply out there.

As far as the construction is concerned I went timber when I built mine, as that's what I'm used to. For the roof I used corrugated bitumen sheets (Onduline/Coroline type stuff) over an OSB deck. Walls clad with shiplap boarding.

Might build the next one out of blocks for a change, although I would probably still clad in timber as I prefer the look. Still need a wood framed roof anyhow, I'm not a fan of flat roofs so double-pitched is the way forward.

Under construction:

View attachment 116933

Inside once filled with crap:

View attachment 116935

Putting decent power supply in:

View attachment 116934
Click to expand...
I love this! There is only one way to build a garage! Start with a Defender and build around it! Top job!
 
Paul D said:
I use some little plastic glue spreaders that I get from school. Next time I'm passing I'll drop you a few off. They can be easily cut to form a small bead too, which helps sometimes .. ;)

If you need a hand labouring etc on the garage build, shout up .. I helped Tim when we built his, but that was blockwork .. :)
Click to expand...

Thanks for the offer Paul, I will give you a shout if I need a hand, just need to get planning through and confirmed :)

Al2O3 said:
Wish I'd used seam sealer on mine before it got painted. I've got a small leak in to the drivers footwell. Just small, but annoying. Stupid mistake :(

When my lads were little I built them a small bunk house on a raised deck. It had two bunks in and you could put a double air bed on the floor. The walls were just half inch tongue and groove cladding. If the lads were camping out with a few mates, even on really cold nights, they had to have one of the windows propped open cos it was too hot inside. Wood is a very good insulator. :)
Click to expand...

You and me both, didn't do my last one either :(
Still not decided what to do ref shed/garage, but timber is tempting at the mo, cheers for the information and input :)
 
Did a little bit today and made a start prepping the bulkhead for paint, and drilling a tapping all the holes out.
Vent pin holes are a bloody nightmare to do :eek:
Just a little bit of filler on the top corners to get them a little flatter, and a little on one of the door pillar's where it has got a dent in it (god knows where from, galv factory possibly)
A little happier with the seam sealer now it's dry too, just seemed a gooey mess last week, not that you'll ever notice it once it is painted and put back together.

image.jpeg
 
Another couple of hours today, and did a little on the tub.
First job, remove said tub from the chassis, along with the seat box and seat I put in temporary when I was meant to be moving house.
And got the under floor strengtheners riveted on. No rubber pads for them at the mo, but will get some ordered when I start ordering stuff again.

image.jpeg


image.jpeg



image.jpeg


Tub turned over, chequer plate removed and generally gave a good clean, mainly inside, and one rear quarter removed, had in my mind I would be doing both before I started the job, but the passenger side one isn't as bad as I thought so will be left as is.
Will get one ordered this week and get the new one bonded on next weekend and make a start with the rest of the paint prepwork.

image.jpeg


image.jpeg


image.jpeg


image.jpeg
 
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