Disagree a little bit with you. IF he had connected his memory saver, the ignition would have been off sufficient time for the nav unit to go to sleep.

The burning smell you had was probably the fuse box in the engine bay going bye bye.

If the nav unit is disconnected, the radio should start working again. Fried nav unit in boot=no radio. Mines the same.

What rating battery did he fit? Is it possible that he fitted the wrong type?

what would battery rating do? 12 volts is 12 volts all day long. The cca would have no effect on anything, except help on a cold morning starting:D
 
logically the spanner short is path of least resistance.
Second is the cranking of the starter is a similar high current situation.
I would still look at fuse box and earthing issues as two days before fault occurred is unlikely to be connected IMHO
 
what would battery rating do? 12 volts is 12 volts all day long. The cca would have no effect on anything, except help on a cold morning starting:D

We all know how picky the p38 is to good voltage. What if he fitted something really small in ah? Would that not cause problems?

I'm like datatek, biggest mf battery that would fit :D
 
We all know how picky the p38 is to good voltage. What if he fitted something really small in ah? Would that not cause problems?

I'm like datatek, biggest mf battery that would fit :D

yep and will out last recomended size by years. Have had twin 1100ccas for 6 yrs and still working:D Recomended was 825's
 
You ask if something similar has happened before to anyone....

Check out what became the most epic thread on Landyzone Range Rover section.....runs to 72 pages in length so I don't expect you to read all of it,http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/cheesed-off-need-help-please-guys-sorry-199035.html

But here is a synopsis...

Neo2 was checking the fuse box and shorted out the system...long story short, the BeCM was fecked and repaired by member, but didn't work, and so was replaced and repaired by another member who runs his business repairing BeCMs and hey presto all is well again...but the story and tale is epic and what poor Neo2 went through was both terrible and heartwarming.....he is trully a gent in my book!
 
You ask if something similar has happened before to anyone....

Check out what became the most epic thread on Landyzone Range Rover section.....runs to 72 pages in length so I don't expect you to read all of it,http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/cheesed-off-need-help-please-guys-sorry-199035.html

But here is a synopsis...

Neo2 was checking the fuse box and shorted out the system...long story short, the BeCM was fecked and repaired by member, but didn't work, and so was replaced and repaired by another member who runs his business repairing BeCMs and hey presto all is well again...but the story and tale is epic and what poor Neo2 went through was both terrible and heartwarming.....he is trully a gent in my book!
shorting the battery is different than fuse box ,its where the current travels through
 
Second is the cranking of the starter is a similar high current situation.

shorting out a car battery with a spanner is known as a "dead short", i.e. no resistance at all. Theoretically voltage should drop to zero but in real life that does not happen unless the battery is drained completely, battery self destructs or the cause of the short is removed or melts.

Cranking a starter is not a dead short, if it was car batteries wouldn't last very long.

Because of the amount of fragile electronics in modern cars, owners are told not to use portable battery pack starters, booster starters or even jump leads to start another car. And to disconnect the battery from the cars battery leads before using a battery charger, even low powered ones.
 
shorting out a car battery with a spanner is known as a "dead short", i.e. no resistance at all. Theoretically voltage should drop to zero but in real life that does not happen unless the battery is drained completely, battery self destructs or the cause of the short is removed or melts.

Cranking a starter is not a dead short, if it was car batteries wouldn't last very long.

Because of the amount of fragile electronics in modern cars, owners are told not to use portable battery pack starters, booster starters or even jump leads to start another car. And to disconnect the battery from the cars battery leads before using a battery charger, even low powered ones.

Still goes back to the path of least resistance and yes I know a starter isn't a dead short, arcing can cause transient voltages-but the 2 days are enough to say it wasn't related and what AA will do
 
Last edited:
Im with the AA. Your problems are most likely with as previously mentioned, the main fuse box.
 
Still goes back to the path of least resistance and yes I know a starter isn't a dead short, arcing can cause transient voltages-but the 2 days are enough to say it wasn't related and what AA will do

When I worked at BAE weapon systems we often had to check out misfire or dud missiles, where they failed to launch.

We would get them back and do very thorough tests on them after stripping them down, removing rocket motors and the detonators used to start the solid fuel burning.

The tests involved checking the electronic pack as if it was just off the production line, with every test duplicated by two testers who had a little rubber stamp to stamp against every test step in the forms added to the missiles document folder.

A lot did have faults, usually from bad handling during transit or at depots, but one or two would test out 100% OK even when repeated tests were done.

Off they would go back to the depot or Salisbury Plain or wherever, and the "friday afternoon" rogues would return a few weeks or months later, test out OK yet again and the cycle continued.

There was absolutely no reason that they shouldn't have worked but they just didn't. Every time I saw a missile with a thick log folder I knew it was one of the duds and me and my fellow tester and our fitters would have to go through the same rigmarole again.

BTW - all missiles had dummy warheads when the left our place, some poor soul in a draughty and damp army depot somewhere had the job of fitting real warheads on.

Anyway, the purpose of my tale is to explain that electronic (not electric) components, PCB's, sub assemblies and complete and fully functional modules - like an ECU - can have unpredictable and/or intermittent faults, gremlins, sods law whatever, it happens.

And as I have already stated the number of faults so soon after the AA replaced the battery is suspicious to me.

Also please bear in mind that I hardly drove it from the Saturday it was fixed to the Friday I drove it the 10 miles to Dublin ferry port and off the boat again at Holyhead. And the faults had all come up before I had left the island of Anglesey. I would say 40 miles maximum.

I am keeping to myself some of my things I saw him do (or not do) as he did the job, as I do not want to let them be known to all and sundry before I get a chance to speak to a solicitor on Tuesday.

But suffice it to say my version of events does not tally at all with what the Ireland office reported back to the UK office.

And I am not lying.
 
Im with the AA. Your problems are most likely with as previously mentioned, the main fuse box.

As I have said already, the independent LR specialist garage I took it to has done a full diagnosis using the correct test equipment and he has made a report to the AA. He has seen this exact same problem before and the cause of the problem, symptoms and test results are exactly the same.

This guy may be an independent but the local RR main dealer send all their awkward jobs to him and will often call him for help with LR electronics when they are stuck.

And as I said in the previous email I dispute the AA version of events and have at least one witness and email documentation to prove. Their engineer is obviously lying to save his backside.

Shorting out a battery is not something you expect a trained mechanic to do, especially when he works for the AA.
 
Unless the ignition was on and the satnav switched on when the short occurred i cannot see how it could possibly have effected the satnav or BECM. However it is possible i hear to damage the satnav on this model by disconnecting or reconnecting the battery with the satnav switched on.
 
I think some of you would be suprised at the transients caused by the flash of a spanner across battery terminals. Early transmitters used sparks as the transmitting medium.
I doubt you will get anywhere with the AA as proof would be impossible so long after the event.
Better spend your cash on checking out the fuse box and posting the BECM to Rick the Pick to be checked out.
 
I think some of you would be suprised at the transients caused by the flash of a spanner across battery terminals. Early transmitters used sparks as the transmitting medium.

Quite right.

I doubt you will get anywhere with the AA as proof would be impossible so long after the event.

I was advised by the claims manager at my insurance broker that I have to go through the standard AA claims procedure first. I have done that and they have eventually told me that they are not prepared to pay out. On Tuesday I will ask the claims manager to get stuck in.

Better spend your cash on checking out the fuse box and posting the BECM to Rick the Pick to be checked out.

Fuse box has already been checked by a LR independent, its fine and in his opinion, based on the exact same problem a while ago with another customers car, is that the BeCM is knackered and the AA should cough up for a new one.
 

Similar threads