kurtjohnson10 said:
no coils you may as well have bought a Freelander if you do that :D, the whole concept of the P38 was built around the EAS system.
But in my opinion it is a compete waste of time and money refurbing the dryer. Its cheaper to buy a new one that will give you 100% clean moisture free and dirt free air that is crucial to the EAS system.
The red O-rings in the kits are not high grade O-rings . They harden after about 4 months of use and in some cases are slightly oversize causing another leak path.
The compressor seal kits are ok as long as you do not damage the piston seal on replacement.
All this will be a waste of time , money and effort if the motor itself on the pump is knackered or the thermal trip is on the way out.
The valve block kits are ok but once again the O-rings are cheap and if you have problems with the base rubber of the solenoids being worn then you will still have a leak.
I would attack one job at a time and definitely get the Dunlop air springs for now so that you can kind of guarantee that they are ok. Spending too much on gen this and gen that air springs is pointless mate if the rest of the system is not running right - in my opinion.:);)
Click to expand...

+1.

I'd steer clear of Arnott 2. They used to be about the same ride as Dunlop but last longer but the new design is a bit hit and miss. Gen 3 are definitely an upgrade but boy, do you pay for it. Again, the new connectors are a bit of a faff if ever they need to come out. Dunlop best on price for the ride and will last 7 years.
 
Cheers for the insight on the Arnott's, I've now bought myself a set of Dunlops with clips and should hopefully have them here by Tuesday.

I jacked the rear up today to have a look around for the source of the air leak on the nearside, didn't take long to find it, even without soapy water:

N3qOHLQ.jpg


7cPHoWe.jpg


While I was under the back I also checked the body brake lines and someone's got to them before me too:

YzIGvcR.jpg


Back under the bonnet while looking for the engine number (still can't find it, found the logical place for it on the NS block, but it either really caked in muck, or I'm looking in the wrong place!) and spotted another issue:

lZSZyEO.jpg


MAP sensor won't be seeing much then; time to rummage around in my box of hoses...

Also removed the EAS pump to test it, it wasn't exactly secured down properly on the front two mountings, one stud spinning in the plastic, the other replaced with a bolt that had been shortened using a bolt cropper by the looks of it :/ Anyway, label on the pump says a build date of 09/17 so it's relatively recent. I screwed a pressure gauge that I had lying around into the output (only rated up to 100psi unfortunately) for the purposes of a quick buzz, went up fairly quickly so I think the pump is healthy, but when I buy the valve block kit I'll get one with the pump rebuild parts just in case.
 
Yep I think you may have found your air leak:D
The brake pipe over the Diff looks a bit crusty at the top, nice easy one just fun bending it up,
20200522_172159.jpg

One I did last year:D
 
brianp38dse said:
The brake pipe over the Diff looks a bit crusty at the top, nice easy one just fun bending it up,
Click to expand...

I was thinking that myself while editing the pic, need to check my stocks of cupranickle and fittings. Are they metric or imperial on a P38?
 
Slooby said:
I was thinking that myself while editing the pic, need to check my stocks of cupranickle and fittings. Are they metric or imperial on a P38?
Click to expand...

Metric 10x1 if my memory's right, easy one just clamp flexi and replace, what ever you do dont let the brake modulator get empty they are a pain to bleed and it must be done to the Rave procedure.
 
It's been a couple of days, but I've been up to stuff with the Rangie

I have my set of new air springs and clips now, I'm waiting for my EAS pump and valve block rebuild kit to land (viton O rings) along with a drier rebuild kit, plus an order in with Island 4x4 for a full service kit along with new rocker cover gasket, rear bump stops, inlet manifold gaskets and injector spill pipe/hose.

Anyway, yesterday evening I removed the old air springs, and this evening I fitted the new ones.

0Du21W9.jpg


Seems that both rear springs have been replaced at some point; the OSR has no sign of perishing at all and has the same date stamp as the NSR which is shot:

5VfxsJq.jpg


There were the remains of 3 P clips and a random piece of wire holding the old springs in:

mzgJZhM.jpg


And the top clip holding the NSR spring in place disintegrated as I tried to remove it, so I had to cut away the top of the spring retainer body to get the remains of the clip out:

gKjRxSx.jpg


Before fitting the new springs I cleaned things up with a wire brush and got the remains of the old bumpstops out as well as cleaning up the cups:

uN1JkBo.jpg


Before fitting the new springs I gave everything a wipe with ACF50 penetrating rust stabiliser and protectant:

0t3LUQR.jpg


Looks like the OSR axle brake line has been replaced already:

QL5pL5k.jpg


I need to replace the NSR axle brake line at some point, which I'll probably do when I fit new brake pads. I'm hoping that can wait till after I get it a fresh MoT.

Bit of a fiddle to get those top P clips in, and they really don't have much strength to them, I guess the system remaining inflated does the retaining job for the springs, with the clips just there to hold them in place until it is presurised

LprGHaa.jpg


ecPAE38.jpg


With any luck the bumpstops will arrive tomorrow so I can get them fitted and go tackle the front springs
 
I generally do tend to add a thin film of rtv in the groove of the rocker cover to help in holding gaskets in place while fitting anyway, but cheers for the tip!
 
Slooby said:
I generally do tend to add a thin film of rtv in the groove of the rocker cover to help in holding gaskets in place while fitting anyway, but cheers for the tip!
Click to expand...

Spot on. I managed without but what a faff. Took half-a-dozen attempts with that bl**dy half moon bit at the back under the bulkhead. Spot of RTV would have done it in one.
 
Engine numer is around the dip stick if you haven’t found it yet. Laser engraved as opposed to stamped on some vehicles.
 
Yeah, it was the laser engraving that got me, couldn't make out that there was a number on the block that I suspected was the home of the number till I got at it with some brake cleaner and scotch-brite. Now have a decent pic of the number and have written it into my log book.
 
Given the state of the old dryer, while the airlines are disconnected, blow through them to remove any dryer powder that might be in there.

Saves it getting back into the valve block later.
 
For a change of pace I thought today I should do something about insurance; dear god what have you all been doing with your Range Rovers!?! The prices are insane! There I was innocently thinking it was going to cost me about the same as my Series III 109 (about the same as a full tank of diesel) and the quotes are coming back more like my daily (BMW M140i with mods) at over 400 quid. Anyone would think that the brokers had taken a look at the other vehicles I have insured and think I have a 'job' planned... just because I have a JCB and a Range Rover doesn't mean I have designs on tge local cash point o_O Looks like the 295 my regular broker quoted wasn't quite so mad after all...

In other news the EAS valve block, pump and drier rebuild kits have arrived. Still waiting on Island 4x4 for the bump stops though. Oh and I really do need to find a wallet friendly set of part worn tyres, or spare set of wheels with tyres, I have 4 different makes on it 1 has a puncture and another is a completely different speed rating :rolleyes: I thought I had found a set for 75 quid, but unfortunately they are a 104 load rating which I think is a bit low if I want to make use of the full towing rating, which is why I bought this one in the first place
 
For a change of pace I thought today I should do something about insurance; dear god what have you all been doing with your Range Rovers!?! The prices are insane! There I was innocently thinking it was going to cost me about the same as my Series III 109 (about the same as a full tank of diesel) and the quotes are coming back more like my daily (BMW M140i with mods) at over 400 quid. Anyone would think that the brokers had taken a look at the other vehicles I have insured and think I have a 'job' planned... just because I have a JCB and a Range Rover doesn't mean I have designs on tge local cash point o_O Looks like the 295 my regular broker quoted wasn't quite so mad after all...

In other news the EAS valve block, pump and drier rebuild kits have arrived. Still waiting on Island 4x4 for the bump stops though. Oh and I really do need to find a wallet friendly set of part worn tyres, or spare set of wheels with tyres, I have 4 different makes on it 1 has a puncture and another is a completely different speed rating :rolleyes: I thought I had found a set for 75 quid, but unfortunately they are a 104 load rating which I think is a bit low if I want to make use of the full towing rating, which is why I bought this one in the first place
 
Slooby said:
For a change of pace I thought today I should do something about insurance; dear god what have you all been doing with your Range Rovers!?! The prices are insane! There I was innocently thinking it was going to cost me about the same as my Series III 109 (about the same as a full tank of diesel) and the quotes are coming back more like my daily (BMW M140i with mods) at over 400 quid. Anyone would think that the brokers had taken a look at the other vehicles I have insured and think I have a 'job' planned... just because I have a JCB and a Range Rover doesn't mean I have designs on tge local cash point o_O Looks like the 295 my regular broker quoted wasn't quite so mad after all...

In other news the EAS valve block, pump and drier rebuild kits have arrived. Still waiting on Island 4x4 for the bump stops though. Oh and I really do need to find a wallet friendly set of part worn tyres, or spare set of wheels with tyres, I have 4 different makes on it 1 has a puncture and another is a completely different speed rating :rolleyes: I thought I had found a set for 75 quid, but unfortunately they are a 104 load rating which I think is a bit low if I want to make use of the full towing rating, which is why I bought this one in the first place
Click to expand...
I'd do something about the echo.;):D
 
Slooby said:
For a change of pace I thought today I should do something about insurance; dear god what have you all been doing with your Range Rovers!?! The prices are insane! There I was innocently thinking it was going to cost me about the same as my Series III 109 (about the same as a full tank of diesel) and the quotes are coming back more like my daily (BMW M140i with mods) at over 400 quid. Anyone would think that the brokers had taken a look at the other vehicles I have insured and think I have a 'job' planned... just because I have a JCB and a Range Rover doesn't mean I have designs on tge local cash point o_O Looks like the 295 my regular broker quoted wasn't quite so mad after all...

In other news the EAS valve block, pump and drier rebuild kits have arrived. Still waiting on Island 4x4 for the bump stops though. Oh and I really do need to find a wallet friendly set of part worn tyres, or spare set of wheels with tyres, I have 4 different makes on it 1 has a puncture and another is a completely different speed rating :rolleyes: I thought I had found a set for 75 quid, but unfortunately they are a 104 load rating which I think is a bit low if I want to make use of the full towing rating, which is why I bought this one in the first place
Click to expand...
My insurance has always been round the £200 mark for past 5yrs. Once went up to something stupid so just swapped it over. Insurance companies always seem generous at renewal time when I say not renewing because so and so is cheaper. Thats fully comp as well
 
A couple of brokers said to me that the underwriters currently have a downer on Range Rovers, not Series, Defenders, Discoverys or Freelanders, just anything Range Rover; with the newer ones being stolen and the older ones having a tendency when crashed into something of totally destroying that other thing :/
 
Slooby said:
A couple of brokers said to me that the underwriters currently have a downer on Range Rovers, not Series, Defenders, Discoverys or Freelanders, just anything Range Rover; with the newer ones being stolen and the older ones having a tendency when crashed into something of totally destroying that other thing :/
Click to expand...

You'd yhink they'd take the age of the car into account. Half the time the owner cannot start a P38. Any thief will have to be gifted.
 
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