Datatek said:
Thanks for the kind thought, post Brexit, it would cost me at least another £10 in the handling charges rip off and duty:(
Click to expand...

The EU is trying to make a point but I suspect both sides are hurting.
 
Grrrrrr said:
The EU is trying to make a point but I suspect both sides are hurting.
Click to expand...
Exactly right, the UK must not be seen to succeed. It was all so much simpler pre EU (4th Reich). In 69 I travelled through France with wife and child to a job in Germany, no sign of visa's in my passport and no restrictions on carrying food for a picnic en-route.
 
I have a se of those grippers, and have been using them, unfortunately they don't hold the thin signal wires that well plus besides that my shakes make holding the iron steady tricky regardless. The shakes are manageable as long as I don't become conscious of them, because when I do my brain tries to compensate and there is a time delay between shake and compensating response so the amplitude of the shake just gets greater! The fix is to stop and go do something else less detailed for a bit...like look for a source of ignition to set the wretched P38 on fire...
 
Well I've now removed all the loom to loom connectors and soldered the wires behind the a pillar kick panels on both sides...

Annoyingly the replacement OBD2 socket I ordered from eBay a week and a half ago hasn't arrived, so not much I can do about swapping it out. Will try hooking my laptop up again tomorrow, but based on the luck I've had so far I'm not optimistic
 
Have just tried hooking the laptop up to the OBD2 port and all the removing of connectors and soldering the wires together has made not one jot of difference: TX responding as expected with FF and 01, RX just repsonding with PP ie no connection

Raised a case with ebay over my missing OBD2 socket. Not completely convinced that even replacing the socket, eventually, is going to make any difference considering the lenghts that I have gone to so far all for not even a glimmer that it can be got to work
 
Just to re-iterate; I am using a genuine FTDI adapter, I am using the genuine FTDI driver, I have tried changing comm ports and usb ports
 
Not used EAS Unlock in a while, but if I remember correctly, when you click connect you should get the delay relay toggle plus beeps from dash first, and then it does the data sequence. Do you get the beeps & EAS waring on dash ?
 
Nope, just the beeps from dash due to the fault alternating between EAS Fault and 35mph max messages all the while the ignition is in position 2

This is using a cable and adapter that have been been back and checked by the supplier, I've had zero comms with the EAS through the OBD2 socket since February when it started giving intermittent responses.
 
Slooby said:
Nope, just the beeps from dash due to the fault alternating between EAS Fault and 35mph max messages all the while the ignition is in position 2

This is using a cable and adapter that have been been back and checked by the supplier, I've had zero comms with the EAS through the OBD2 socket since February when it started giving intermittent responses.
Click to expand...
Check or change the EAS relay under the passenger seat, I had one fail on my project car. No comms with a duff EAS relay.
I take t that you are connecting the EAS cable & laptop to the OBD port before turning the ignition on and then starting the program?
 
I've been following the RSW instructions which state that you should turn the ignition to position 2, then connect the cable to the laptop and OBD port before finally starting the software.

As for the relay hard to tell what state it is in. No sign of corrosion on any of its contacts or the socket, or scorching. I popped the cover off it to see if it might need some cleaning only to discover it's solid state. Again all looked clean and sound inside, so assumed it was ok and left it be
 
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