Slooby
Well-Known Member
Indeed
First time I've tried to use it as a torque wrench anti-clockwise in 20 odd years too :/
Indeed
First time I've tried to use it as a torque wrench anti-clockwise in 20 odd years too :/
Sods law
Slooby
Well-Known Member
Yarp, was also done at gone 10pm, with a stinking cold, so wasn't exactly firing on all cylinders either
Anyway, replacement exhaust wheel and shaft ordered from Turbo Rebuild, which came to £38.10 delivered including a 10% returning customer discount, so thankfully not too painful on the wallet and no chancing getting decent usable parts from a second-hand turbo either
Anyway, replacement exhaust wheel and shaft ordered from Turbo Rebuild, which came to £38.10 delivered including a 10% returning customer discount, so thankfully not too painful on the wallet and no chancing getting decent usable parts from a second-hand turbo either
Slooby
Well-Known Member
For anyone's future reference the shaft and wheel are this model:
https://www.turborebuild.co.uk/webs...ne-Shaft-and-Wheel-TD04-Turbo-4917730130.html
And a complete CHRA this:
https://www.turborebuild.co.uk/webs...17709611-BMW-Land-Rover-Vauxhall-Opel-GM.html
https://www.turborebuild.co.uk/webs...ne-Shaft-and-Wheel-TD04-Turbo-4917730130.html
And a complete CHRA this:
https://www.turborebuild.co.uk/webs...17709611-BMW-Land-Rover-Vauxhall-Opel-GM.html
Cold light of day has revealed how I managed to snap the shaft; it turns out that my 5-25Nm Teng Torque wrench only works as a torque wrench on a clockwise rotation, anti-clockwise locks it
I got caught out when one of my wrenches got old. Learnt that lesson: calibrate once a year!
Slooby
Well-Known Member
Yeah....might be an idea to have mine calibrated...annoyingly I don't have a mate in the calibration shop at work anymore who I could have snuck them in through, although I do know the manager so I should perhaps just ask!
If anyone needs a bridge checking I do have a mechanical 800kN load cell that *cough* may have been through the doors of the calibration shop just before it was due to go in a skip...
If anyone needs a bridge checking I do have a mechanical 800kN load cell that *cough* may have been through the doors of the calibration shop just before it was due to go in a skip...
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
The local Snapon franchisee used to check mine,had a bit of kit in his van.
Slooby
Well-Known Member
No, the exhaust wheel and shaft are balanced as a unit after assembly at the manufacturer, while the compressor wheel is balanced on it's own.
So there is no need to balance them if replacing one, the other or both.
It helps that the TD04 is a sleeve bearing turbo, so really robust, but a little bit energy absorbing as a result. Ball race bearing turbos spin up faster as they are less lossy in the bearing department, but they are less tolerant and do need balancing once assembled onto the CHRA.
If you 'trim' either or both wheels regardless of type they need balancing again
So there is no need to balance them if replacing one, the other or both.
It helps that the TD04 is a sleeve bearing turbo, so really robust, but a little bit energy absorbing as a result. Ball race bearing turbos spin up faster as they are less lossy in the bearing department, but they are less tolerant and do need balancing once assembled onto the CHRA.
If you 'trim' either or both wheels regardless of type they need balancing again
You can roughly do it using a weight, a piece of string and a vice. It won't be perfect but enough to show a problem.
Good call from Snap-On chap. I wonder if other places offer the service?
Slooby
Well-Known Member
Turbo update:
New (Melett) exhaust wheel and shaft turned up last week and I set about the second, partial, rebuild (partial because I only needed to refit the shaft and wheels).
First off here's a line up all the CHRA parts from the first full rebuild:
And now the assembled CHRA with new shaft and exhaust wheel:
The turbo is now all back together:
Had a fair old battle with getting the compressor housing circlip back on as I didn't have a big enough set of circlip pliers, also the all-metal lock nut on the exhaust housing to CHRA V band for some reason seized and snaped about 3mm off the end of the bolt, and the exhaust housing to CHRA joint didn't go back together as tightly as I expected. After a few attempts to get it close up I measured things up with my vernier and it would appear there was no way it could close up tight anyway, so fingers crossed it's all ok.
New (Melett) exhaust wheel and shaft turned up last week and I set about the second, partial, rebuild (partial because I only needed to refit the shaft and wheels).
First off here's a line up all the CHRA parts from the first full rebuild:
And now the assembled CHRA with new shaft and exhaust wheel:
The turbo is now all back together:
Had a fair old battle with getting the compressor housing circlip back on as I didn't have a big enough set of circlip pliers, also the all-metal lock nut on the exhaust housing to CHRA V band for some reason seized and snaped about 3mm off the end of the bolt, and the exhaust housing to CHRA joint didn't go back together as tightly as I expected. After a few attempts to get it close up I measured things up with my vernier and it would appear there was no way it could close up tight anyway, so fingers crossed it's all ok.
Well done seems a shame to get it dirty thoughTurbo update:
New (Melett) exhaust wheel and shaft turned up last week and I set about the second, partial, rebuild (partial because I only needed to refit the shaft and wheels).
First off here's a line up all the CHRA parts from the first full rebuild:
And now the assembled CHRA with new shaft and exhaust wheel:
The turbo is now all back together:
Had a fair old battle with getting the compressor housing circlip back on as I didn't have a big enough set of circlip pliers, also the all-metal lock nut on the exhaust housing to CHRA V band for some reason seized and snaped about 3mm off the end of the bolt, and the exhaust housing to CHRA joint didn't go back together as tightly as I expected. After a few attempts to get it close up I measured things up with my vernier and it would appear there was no way it could close up tight anyway, so fingers crossed it's all ok.
Slooby
Well-Known Member
Cheers, I am toying with fitting a catch can rather than leave the breathers recirculating oil back through the intake. Maybe just a crude home brew unit just to see if the engine is breathing heavily from the crank case (which would most likely be cylinder wear related and nothing short of a rebuild will fix) or the rocker cover (which could be valve stem oil seals and relatively simple to fix).
Slooby
Well-Known Member
It's been a while since I last made an update to this thread, but life has been getting in the way of just about everything, and I haven't had as much time to work on the Range Rover especial now that light and weather are conspiring against me too.
Suffice to say more detailed update with photos will be coming, but in the meantime; there has been welding and fabrication, which is now complete and I am now getting on with the mechanical jobs again. Had the intercooler off yesterday to flush it through with brake cleaner, the rest of the inlet pipework is currently getting the same treatment, and in the dark last night I pulled the rocker cover in order to replace the seal (3 bolts at the front were loose!). The inside of the cover has a fair bit of caked on sludge, especially the wire 'sponge' pre breather condensate trap. That's all being cleaned now. Of greater concern is the state of the camshaft after 225k miles the tip of the lobes almost appear like they are stepped...I need to take a closer look at this.
Suffice to say more detailed update with photos will be coming, but in the meantime; there has been welding and fabrication, which is now complete and I am now getting on with the mechanical jobs again. Had the intercooler off yesterday to flush it through with brake cleaner, the rest of the inlet pipework is currently getting the same treatment, and in the dark last night I pulled the rocker cover in order to replace the seal (3 bolts at the front were loose!). The inside of the cover has a fair bit of caked on sludge, especially the wire 'sponge' pre breather condensate trap. That's all being cleaned now. Of greater concern is the state of the camshaft after 225k miles the tip of the lobes almost appear like they are stepped...I need to take a closer look at this.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
Itl pick up much better with all that gunk out. Don’t be in a rush to refit the intercooler let it air out tidy
Slooby
Well-Known Member
Oh it's got plenty of time to air dry don't you worry
I fully expect to be spending most of the day cleaning the rocker cover, and finishing cleaning the pipes.
Once thge rocker cover is back on (which will come after giving the rotating parts and cam chest a wipe followed by assembly lube on the cam lobes for first start up protection) the inlet manifold is coming off so I can get to the glow plugs to change them. It too will no doubt be a mess of gunk and get a damn good clean, thankfully no egr gunk to deal with though, been there done that back when I had an E39 530d with its M57...
I fully expect to be spending most of the day cleaning the rocker cover, and finishing cleaning the pipes.
Once thge rocker cover is back on (which will come after giving the rotating parts and cam chest a wipe followed by assembly lube on the cam lobes for first start up protection) the inlet manifold is coming off so I can get to the glow plugs to change them. It too will no doubt be a mess of gunk and get a damn good clean, thankfully no egr gunk to deal with though, been there done that back when I had an E39 530d with its M57...
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
My metal inlet had a little residue in there particularly on the iat. Truth be told the inside was clean compared to the outside.
Slooby
Well-Known Member
Nearly got it all cleaned up now, although did snap the tabs that hold the breather fitting in place getting it out which is a pain. RTV and some creative use of lock wire should resolve it, or drilled and tapped holes...
Next job is going to be getting the mesh filter dry after a couple of turns in the UT tank...that isn't going to be so quick
Next job is going to be getting the mesh filter dry after a couple of turns in the UT tank...that isn't going to be so quick
The PITA bit is the half-moon bit on the rocker cover gasket that sits under the bulkhead. A dab of RTV can help there.
