Hi to one and all.

Firstly, thanks for the advice. Prior to me buying my '96 range rover DSE, 125k miles, I read the threads and asked a few questions. It helped me secure my first one.

No going back now, i'm hooked.

For 3K i didn't expect it to be trouble free and i wasn't disappointed though i still think i got a hell of a lot of car for little money, it looks like it has only been to Tesco's and on the school run all it's life ( i bought it in London, deliberately ). It's now been put to proper use, bog hopping in Southern Ireland!

Anyone know any good independents in the Limerick area?

The first problem was the gear selector, i gradually lost the ability to select all gears. it turned out that the selector had unscrewed itself inside the gearbox - 300 euro to repair at my local garage. gearbox and (new - hurray!) transfer box off to do the job. just in case anyone has similar troubles.

I've read the many threads on the EAS and mine is playing up. So i now feel like a bone fide forum member.

Just a quick question, how do I know when there is no air anywhere in the system, before commencing any work on it, is there a bleed screw? i have a "soft fault" i.e all the lights come on ( christmas tree ) but no dash warning. It clears when the ignition is switched off for 5 minutes and comes back 9 times out of 10, after about 45mins driving. It either goes into wading mode, or down on it's stops, or just continues on it's proper driving position though i can't adjust it. I suspect the exhaust filter or a height sensor, i'll go for the exhaust filter first, just don't want to go at it with 150psi anywhere in the system.

Thanks in advance

Chris.

You can change the filters and remove the compressor to work on it without depressurising the system or air pi**ing out. If you don't mind the noise, you can disconnect the pressure line at the valve box by depressing the collar on the fitting and pulling the tube out. The reservoir has a drain plug which will empty the system but you have to be careful when removing it otherwise the plug will be blown into orbit, release slowly until you hear air escaping then walk away for about half an hour.
Safest way is to use EAS diagnostics which will open the valves to vent the pressure to atmosphere.
Independants specialising in P38's etc. with dignostics are few & far between over here, plenty of garages will "Have a go" at "Ordinary" Land Rovers.

If you want to depressurised the system you could always buy the cable from here, then download the free software to go with it and you can fault find and adjust the ride heights.

Lots of EAS stuff in Range Rover P38/4.0/4.6 Common Problems and Fixes

Hi
Another Irishman here (in Killarney). When I got mine I rebuilt the valve block with all new o-rings (well worth doing for the price - about £23 I think from P38spares.co.uk). It's very easy to do.


My compressor was also shagged so I rebuilt that with a new piston and cylinder and a new thermal switch. The piston and cylinder is also very easy to replace - less than an hours work.

When I was depressurising mine I just jacked it up put axle stands under the chassis and then lowered the suspesion manually with the dash buttons- this takes some of the pressure from the air springs.

Then I just popped each of the lines to the valve block one by one. It just makes a bit of noise but it's over quickly.