LR-96-VL

New Member
Hi there,

Just bought a '94 P38a 4.6 HSE, and there's a few niggling issues as expected!

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1. I'm often finding the mirror lenses angled down when I drive off. Doesn't happen every time though.

2. There's a faint electric motor type noise every 20 seconds or so when the engine is running. It lasts about a second or two, never longer.

3. Someone seems to have bypassed the Harmon Kardon sound system.
I looked at the wiring behind the non standard CD headunit today, and it looks like they've just run wires to the two front door speakers and left everything else disconnected!
I'd like it all back up and running obviously, but not sure where is best to start here.... any advice what might be the best route?

4. 'Alarm fault' is coming up on the dash when the car is started

5. The sunroof doesn't open. The motor sounds like its trying, but nothing moves. Sounds jammed rather than broken if that makes sense....

Cheers!
 
1) A standard feature is auto dipping mirrors when you select reverse. If you dont like this (I dont) it can be disabled by turning on ignition - dont start it, select reverse then hold the the memory seat button. A message on the message centre will confirm if it was successful.

2) Most likey the pump you hear will be the EAS pump. The other pump that it might be is for the brake system. To be sure pop the hood and establish if the pump noise is coming from the left ( brakes) or right (Eas) hand side of the engine. If it is the brakes - you most likely need a new brake accumlulator. If it is the EAS then it sounds abnormal. You need to contact Datatek and buy one of his EAS leads which comes with Stoey Wilsons EASdiagnostic software.

3) Clarky is your man for aftermarket stereo problems and wiring harnesses. PM him.

4) & 5) No idea :)
 
+1 on numbers 1+2

3) His full username is Clarky130. (Not sure but there might be other Clarkys about) He's the HK stereo guru.

4) It's possible that someone has disabled (butchered) the alarm to hide a fault.

5) As standard with sunroofs it could be jammed or come off a runner or parts do break off internally. A quick search for sunroofs is probably your best bet as the fault could be in the motor assembly or back in the roof. Don't try to open it too hard because if it does, then it won't close, you'll be in deeper s**t than you are now.
 
Strange dash messages can often be low battery voltage, although it's more often gearbox fault that is displayed, worth checking though.
 
Cheers.
With a bit of investigation I'm thinking the brake accumulator sounds like it may be the issue on mine. Doesn't seem as bad as some of the other cars I've been reading about which have had problems in this area though. Just the noise, no real braking issues as yet.

The alarm fault message only appeared after the window heights had been set. Maybe related to the fact that the sunroof is coming up as 'not set', and also open, as I'm guessing it must be very slightly ajar?

Good call on the dipping mirrors, I'll happily just turn that function off.

I'll drop Clarky130 a PM about the stereo wiring. Hopefully its just been a budget mod to get a CD headunit fitted rather than a cover-up of some nasty issues....
 
Sunroof. You should have a tool for opening it manually or use a screwdriver. Think you take the internal light fitting off (just pulls off) to get to the drive slot. I would try to close it first and maybe investigate it further in the Spring? Should wind back and forth but don't force it? Check the fuse. The Handbook says that on completion of manual operation, the spindle must be turned back one quarter of a turn to re-engage the drive mechanism. The proper tool is best for this.
Further: The sun roof can be affected by freezing or snow or even leaves so the anti-trap function may sense a trap situation and fail to close the sunroof. If this happens and you have cleared the obstruction. To overide the 'anti-trap' function 1: Press and hold the appropriate (uper or lower) part of the switch within 10 seconds of the sunroof backing off (after it has sensed a trap situation). 2: Continue to hold the switch until the sunroof is closed; an audible warning sounds and 'ANTI-TRAP OFF' and 'SUNROOF' are displayed in the message centre. The anti-trap will be operational again as soon as the switch is released. Something useful to know.

Brakes, they all make a noise whilst the accumulator charges should not be very long, check these things in the Owners Handbook that should be in the glove compartment. Its called a glove compartment because that's about all it can hold.

Radio, you should locate an original Clarrion radio cassette player for the year of your car. They had a history of the displays going and so many were thrown out. They are a very good set when working with all speakers going and control on the steering wheel it would be good to get a good working one. They sometimes come up on ebay etc or do a google? but make sure you get one WITH the security code.
 
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Some manual investigation of the sunroof probably is in order then.

Another thing..... The dash text/mileage readout area only is half lit up properly. Is this just a bulb to replace, or a more likely to be a serious LED display type of problem?
 
Nice! Is it just a few screws and then pulling the speedo pod type arrangement out for access then?
 
As expected, another thing to ask about....

The EAS pump seems to be on pretty much constantly.
And it looked a little lopsided when parked tonight.
It still goes and and down very quickly, and sits level when running though. Plus I was told that all the airbags and the distribution block was replaced by the previous owner.

Anything I should be doing about this at this point?
 
As expected, another thing to ask about....

The EAS pump seems to be on pretty much constantly.
And it looked a little lopsided when parked tonight.
It still goes and and down very quickly, and sits level when running though. Plus I was told that all the airbags and the distribution block was replaced by the previous owner.

Anything I should be doing about this at this point?

Yes, and sooner rather than later.
The EAS compressor is not designed to run constantly. Unless you sort this you can add the price of a re-build or replacement to the job.

See top of screen - how to - for assistance on EAS system, talk to DATATEK for computer lead and software to repair it (he also burns a copy of the workshop manual onto the cd.
 

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