ONE LIFE LIVE IT. D90
Active Member
Just done negative batt terminal to that bulkhead post. Reading the same as touching the two probs together.
Also did cylinder head to that bulkhead post, same again.
Removed instrument binacle, checked the sender wire resistance. And that was also the same as the touching the two probs together.
So I take it none of these is the issue?
ONE LIFE LIVE IT. D90
Active Member
Cheers Trax. I'll try that now.
Is my wiring to the alternator correct? There is another post on the alternator that gives out voltage, wondered if I'd got the thinner wire in the correct place. (Ignore red cable)
yeah i was going to do that next mr impatient
iirc it's yellow/brown for the lamp/field coil exciter wire. it goes on d+. the only other place the spade fits is on W (rev) iirc
but if your lamp goes off when the engine starts and on when engine off, then it's probably fine.
go stick your multi on volts over your battery and get a reading. then go start the engine.. it might need a blip and see what the volts now are. should start off at like 12.4-7 and be 14ish when the alt kicks in
ONE LIFE LIVE IT. D90
Active Member
yeah i was going to do that next mr impatient
iirc it's yellow/brown for the lamp/field coil exciter wire. it goes on d+. the only other place the spade fits is on W (rev) iirc
but if your lamp goes off when the engine starts and on when engine off, then it's probably fine.
go stick your multi on volts over your battery and get a reading. then go start the engine.. it might need a blip and see what the volts now are. should start off at like 12.4-7 and be 14ish when the alt kicks in
Haha sorry mate didn't mean to come across impatient.
Battery was reading 12.7 after being stood all day. Started the engine and back of alternator was reading about 14.6. Then behind the gauges was reading about 14.4.
My alternator seems correct after what you said...
this HTML class. Value is http://i905.photobuc
you tried that?
all i'd say it, hey.. maybe it did get colder!.. what did it drop too? the fan is connected via the belt and it was cold.. so it could drop fairly sharpish before your stat closes.
drive around a bit more and if it does it again, get the ir gun back.
Kwakerman
Well-Known Member
Assuming you have the 120 degree range indicator and sender then the sender should read:
60 ohms at 85 degrees
51 ohms at 90 degrees
44 ohms at 95 degrees
38 ohms at 100 degrees
Try comparing those figures with a meter against an IR thermometer held as close to the sender as you can get it. You can also substitute resistors of those values in place of the sender to check the gauge reads correctly when the engine is off (with ignition on) and when it is running.
60 ohms at 85 degrees
51 ohms at 90 degrees
44 ohms at 95 degrees
38 ohms at 100 degrees
Try comparing those figures with a meter against an IR thermometer held as close to the sender as you can get it. You can also substitute resistors of those values in place of the sender to check the gauge reads correctly when the engine is off (with ignition on) and when it is running.
ONE LIFE LIVE IT. D90
Active Member
I tried that. I couldn't rev it too hard due to neighbours. However I gave it a decent rev and it stayed solid at 14.4 volts.
ONE LIFE LIVE IT. D90
Active Member
Thanks kwakerman and trax for your help on this.
Kwakerman, sorry for sounding stupid, but how do I test the sender for the ohms reading? Is it the same as what I've been doing? Except one probe to the stat housing and one probe to the connector on the sender?
