Turboman
Mab An Gov
Looks like a very good place. Wish there was similar around here.
ONE LIFE LIVE IT. D90
Active Member
I wished I had Ste, would be an excellent piece of kit for this sort of thing. Thanks to all for your help. I'll report back with my findings with the IR gun
ONE LIFE LIVE IT. D90
Active Member
Hi guys.
Took the land rover out this week, and got it to just under 100 degrees again on the gauge. Stopped and popped the bonnet and pointed my cheap infa red gauge over the engine around the areas of the water ways. The max temp reading on the Infa red gun was showing 85 to 90 degrees.
So I cleaned up the main battery earth and tried it again. A slight improvement, it's now showing a max of 92 degrees tonight. However the infa red gun is showing 82 degrees. So both times the IR gun is showing 10 degrees lower!
I then got my jump leads, put one end on the negative battery terminal, one end to the block, no difference on gauge. Same result when touched on stat housing.
I then put the jump lead on the bulkhead earth post, which also made no difference.
I'm not 100% sure the chassis earth is good enough. But if I've done what I have with the jump leads. It shouldn't matter should it?
Took the land rover out this week, and got it to just under 100 degrees again on the gauge. Stopped and popped the bonnet and pointed my cheap infa red gauge over the engine around the areas of the water ways. The max temp reading on the Infa red gun was showing 85 to 90 degrees.
So I cleaned up the main battery earth and tried it again. A slight improvement, it's now showing a max of 92 degrees tonight. However the infa red gun is showing 82 degrees. So both times the IR gun is showing 10 degrees lower!
I then got my jump leads, put one end on the negative battery terminal, one end to the block, no difference on gauge. Same result when touched on stat housing.
I then put the jump lead on the bulkhead earth post, which also made no difference.
I'm not 100% sure the chassis earth is good enough. But if I've done what I have with the jump leads. It shouldn't matter should it?
Kwakerman
Well-Known Member
Drop me a PM and I will send a copy of a VDO document that lists the senders resistance at various temperatures. You can then either measure the resistance of the sender to make sure it is tracking properly or put a fixed value resistor in place of the sender to make sure the gauge reads properly.
raywin
Well-Known Member
Remember that three will always be a delta between the actual water temp inside, and the outside of the hose or housing, also due to the way IR guns work different surfaces will give different readings you can see different temperatures on reflective or dull surfaces.
that's why some people paint/stick black tape on to shoot at
ONE LIFE LIVE IT. D90
Active Member
Thanks for the replies guys. I hadn't seen these posts over the weekend with no Internet access.
Will do your suggestions, I just want to mention a couple of things.
Friday afternoon I replaced the main battery earth to the chassis/gearbox with a good condition used item from a td5. It was virtually the same as mine (300tdi) other than the clamp around the cable to fix to the chassis was more substantial. So I cleaned all ends of the cable, ensuring a good contact. And made sure the chassis was back to bare metal. The maximum amount of contact to the chassis I could get with this new cable was a new m10 washer, under the cable P clamp, due to the different position of the clamp on the cable. Surely if the chassis is clean that's enough? (Bare chassis, m10 washer, P clamp on cable, washer,nut) Anyway took the land rover out all seemed fine.
Saturday and Sunday I did about 150 miles in the land rover, and the temp gauge was very irratic. In fact the temperature went down, the higher the revs. And then on tick over it seems to settle to a position I was used to seeing. So its still seeming like an earth issue, and seems worse since fitting that new cable. Although I'm not convinced!
Can replacing the alternator have any effect on this issue? I fitted a brand new alternator 2/3 weeks ago, and the problem has only risen since then? Alternator is working fine though.
Thanks in advance
Will do your suggestions, I just want to mention a couple of things.
Friday afternoon I replaced the main battery earth to the chassis/gearbox with a good condition used item from a td5. It was virtually the same as mine (300tdi) other than the clamp around the cable to fix to the chassis was more substantial. So I cleaned all ends of the cable, ensuring a good contact. And made sure the chassis was back to bare metal. The maximum amount of contact to the chassis I could get with this new cable was a new m10 washer, under the cable P clamp, due to the different position of the clamp on the cable. Surely if the chassis is clean that's enough? (Bare chassis, m10 washer, P clamp on cable, washer,nut) Anyway took the land rover out all seemed fine.
Saturday and Sunday I did about 150 miles in the land rover, and the temp gauge was very irratic. In fact the temperature went down, the higher the revs. And then on tick over it seems to settle to a position I was used to seeing. So its still seeming like an earth issue, and seems worse since fitting that new cable. Although I'm not convinced!
Can replacing the alternator have any effect on this issue? I fitted a brand new alternator 2/3 weeks ago, and the problem has only risen since then? Alternator is working fine though.
Thanks in advance
ah you need to sort the earth out first then.
i like to have a separate earth strap between the chassis and engine/gearbox. i don't like the clamps.
whip your dash off and stick a wire from your bat neg directly to the temp guage earth and see if that helps. if so go and redo the dash earth point on the bulkhead, body to chassis and all that.
i like to have a separate earth strap between the chassis and engine/gearbox. i don't like the clamps.
whip your dash off and stick a wire from your bat neg directly to the temp guage earth and see if that helps. if so go and redo the dash earth point on the bulkhead, body to chassis and all that.
ONE LIFE LIVE IT. D90
Active Member
Cheers Trax. Isn't the gauge earth's that post on the bulkhead? Just wondering as I've already connected my jump leads to there and it made no difference.
The annoying thing is, the gauge doesn't read too far wrong on tick over.
ONE LIFE LIVE IT. D90
Active Member
Thanks Zeaphod. Is that the voltage regulator in the new alternator?
yup, to the right of the brake servo it is, but the connectors/wire behind the dash to that earth point might be corroded/broke
where are you btw? anywhere close to me / north east?
ONE LIFE LIVE IT. D90
Active Member
Ahh I see. I'll investigate that then thank you.
I'm West midlands, Wolverhampton based unfortunately.
Do you think an M10 washer is enough contact for a good earth? Providing both contacts were spotless?
Just doing some reading... and apparently the alternator needs to earth through the engine? I didn't clean the mounting points up for the alternator when fitting?
yeah m10 will be fine.
get your multi and stick it on resistance, then start testing all your earth points/alt/engine etc to your bat neg
ONE LIFE LIVE IT. D90
Active Member
I'm not sure how to do that trax. I'll have a look online. I'm only familiar with using the multimeter for voltage
ah,
it'll make things a lot easier
also look at volt drop; which will come in useful
didn't someone make a guide on here covering this?
here we go, have a read https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/cowasakis-electrical-tutorial-part-2.285354/
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ONE LIFE LIVE IT. D90
Active Member
ah,
it'll make things a lot easier
also look at volt drop; which will come in useful
didn't someone make a guide on here covering this?
here we go, have a read https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/cowasakis-electrical-tutorial-part-2.285354/
Trax, I've followed the videos that you sent me. Thank you.
I've just measured the resistance between the negative battery terminal, and the chassis rail. It's measuring no resistance!
I did this by cleaning off some underseal, setting the multimeter to ohms. And connecting the one lead of the multimeter to the batt negative, and the other end to the chassis rail. It read no resistance.
I also cleaned some dirt off the transfer box and did the same. Also no resistance!
Any ideas?
