Y

ySo

New Member
Got a few issues here.

Upon starting i get airbag fault on the console. Where is the wiring on thèse cars and what wires exactly so i can check and see if its just a broken wire.

Also if i put the foot down over 60 the engine temp rapidly rises and i lose a lot of power. If i let off the temp goes back down. It used to be from 50mph but i had the viscous coupling replaced as it was faulty but the problem still persists. What else could be causing this?

Thanks.
 
ySo said:
Got a few issues here.

Upon starting i get airbag fault on the console. Where is the wiring on thèse cars and what wires exactly so i can check and see if its just a broken wire.

Also if i put the foot down over 60 the engine temp rapidly rises and i lose a lot of power. If i let off the temp goes back down. It used to be from 50mph but i had the viscous coupling replaced as it was faulty but the problem still persists. What else could be causing this?

Thanks.
Click to expand...


It's a derv - bin it with all those faults :cool:
 
I would try and get it on diagnostics, it will give you a far better idea of where to look.

I would hazzard a guess at the steering wheel airbag rotary coupling, apart from the message does it have any srs lights on? Mine has this (no lights just the message) and it's a suspect coupling.

With regards to the overheating I would say thermostat/waterpump/radiator. Have any of these been changed? It's easy to check the rad, get it upto temp and if it's hot all over then it's ok, if it's hot at the top and the rest cold then it's either blocked or the baffle inside has gone.

It is possible that the impeller's on the waterpump could be gone. The original one's were plastic and with numerous heating/cooling cycles they get brittle and break off. The revised/aftermarket one's have metal impeller's. Hold the viscous fan and try to wobble it. If there is movement then the bearings inside are shot.

Finally, the thermostat. Does it get upto temp ok? When it's warm do you get a good amount of heat into the cabin? When it overheats do you loose the hot air?

To be honest, it's not a massive job to change them all. If it is your waterpump or thermostat then as your going to have to drain the coolant you might as well do them both. I did mine in feb (all 3) and the temp gague stays bang on the halfway mark.

hth

mick
 
No SRS light, just the message "airbag fault".

Radiator is hot all over.

Viscous fan recently replaced with new one.

Gets to temp just fine, stays bang on 12 o clock unless I put the foot down post 60. Good heat in the car, can't say I remember if it lost heat when it overheated.



P38Penguin said:
I would try and get it on diagnostics, it will give you a far better idea of where to look.

I would hazzard a guess at the steering wheel airbag rotary coupling, apart from the message does it have any srs lights on? Mine has this (no lights just the message) and it's a suspect coupling.

With regards to the overheating I would say thermostat/waterpump/radiator. Have any of these been changed? It's easy to check the rad, get it upto temp and if it's hot all over then it's ok, if it's hot at the top and the rest cold then it's either blocked or the baffle inside has gone.

It is possible that the impeller's on the waterpump could be gone. The original one's were plastic and with numerous heating/cooling cycles they get brittle and break off. The revised/aftermarket one's have metal impeller's. Hold the viscous fan and try to wobble it. If there is movement then the bearings inside are shot.

Finally, the thermostat. Does it get upto temp ok? When it's warm do you get a good amount of heat into the cabin? When it overheats do you loose the hot air?

To be honest, it's not a massive job to change them all. If it is your waterpump or thermostat then as your going to have to drain the coolant you might as well do them both. I did mine in feb (all 3) and the temp gague stays bang on the halfway mark.

hth

mick
Click to expand...
 
I would say it's the waterpump. From the sounds of it, it can cope with normal/fast ish driving but as soon as you floor it then it struggles to circulate the coolant. If it was the thermostat then it would be overheating withing 1-2miles of driving.

Out of interest, when was the coolant last changed? It may be worth draining it and giving the system a good flush. I've always used fairy washing up liquid, excellent degreaser and the amount of crap that came out was unreal. For the sake of a few hours it's worth a go.

Drain the system, put a few generous blobs of fairy in the header tank and re-fill. Start the car up and leave the cap off the header tank for a bit. Put the temp onto hi and let it run. Check that the breather pipe on top of the radiator isn't blocked (left hand side of the rad next to the outlet pipe). Check the water level and put the cap back on and when it's warmed up a bit increase the revs to around 1500rpm. After 5-10mins let it idle then shut off, take expansion cap off and drain. You may need to this 3-4 times depending how cruddy the system is and to get all the washing up liquid out.

mick
 
P38Penguin said:
I would say it's the waterpump. From the sounds of it, it can cope with normal/fast ish driving but as soon as you floor it then it struggles to circulate the coolant. If it was the thermostat then it would be overheating withing 1-2miles of driving.

Out of interest, when was the coolant last changed? It may be worth draining it and giving the system a good flush. I've always used fairy washing up liquid, excellent degreaser and the amount of crap that came out was unreal. For the sake of a few hours it's worth a go.

Drain the system, put a few generous blobs of fairy in the header tank and re-fill. Start the car up and leave the cap off the header tank for a bit. Put the temp onto hi and let it run. Check that the breather pipe on top of the radiator isn't blocked (left hand side of the rad next to the outlet pipe). Check the water level and put the cap back on and when it's warmed up a bit increase the revs to around 1500rpm. After 5-10mins let it idle then shut off, take expansion cap off and drain. You may need to this 3-4 times depending how cruddy the system is and to get all the washing up liquid out.

mick
Click to expand...

how come water pump either works or failed,more from your description poor rad or partially opened thermostat
 
If the replacement fan viscous was Britpart, it may be NBG, do the rolled newspaper test. Double check the RAD gets hot all over, not unusual to find cold spots wher the fine water tubes are blocked.
 
Seems hot all over. I am finding that the blowers are putting out roasting hot air even if i set the temp to LO. Is this a clue as to whats going on?
 
ySo said:
Seems hot all over. I am finding that the blowers are putting out roasting hot air even if i set the temp to LO. Is this a clue as to whats going on?
Click to expand...
NO, that's a clue to failed blend motors. the heater matrix has full flow whatever temperature you select.
 
Great another problem to fix lol.

Will try draining and flushing the coolant system see if that fixes the overheating.
 
Just took a wee look in the fuse box, fuse 43 - heater blower was melted, replaced it.

Fuse 43 - heater blower - was the wrong amp fuse, replaced that.

After doing this the passenger side blowers put out cold air now if I put it to low or whatever temp, driver side only puts out hot regardless of temp set. If while the engine is on I change the passenger side temp from low to high then back to low it sticks on hot air until I turn the engine off then back on and it blows cold again when already set at low.

One of the 2 slots those 2 fuses listed above fit into looks damaged/cracked.

Any idea what the above means?
 
ySo said:
Just took a wee look in the fuse box, fuse 43 - heater blower was melted, replaced it.

Fuse 43 - heater blower - was the wrong amp fuse, replaced that.

After doing this the passenger side blowers put out cold air now if I put it to low or whatever temp, driver side only puts out hot regardless of temp set. If while the engine is on I change the passenger side temp from low to high then back to low it sticks on hot air until I turn the engine off then back on and it blows cold again when already set at low.

One of the 2 slots those 2 fuses listed above fit into looks damaged/cracked.

Any idea what the above means?
Click to expand...

Could be a sticky blend motor? Passenger side is the easy 1 but there is guide somewhere of doing it a little easier for the rest
And the bad news is your fuse box is most likeley fubar!! Common on p38! Have you checked or changed pollen filters? Some say those getting clogged up put strain on your motors and cause problems with fuse box?
 
ySo said:
Just took a wee look in the fuse box, fuse 43 - heater blower was melted, replaced it.

Fuse 43 - heater blower - was the wrong amp fuse, replaced that.

After doing this the passenger side blowers put out cold air now if I put it to low or whatever temp, driver side only puts out hot regardless of temp set. If while the engine is on I change the passenger side temp from low to high then back to low it sticks on hot air until I turn the engine off then back on and it blows cold again when already set at low.

One of the 2 slots those 2 fuses listed above fit into looks damaged/cracked.

Any idea what the above means?
Click to expand...

If you replace your fuse box and it sounds like you will have to, make sure you get the correct one. there are many different types depending on year, fuel etc:)
 
Everything else works fine fuse related. Possibly just that one fuse but when I replaced it the passenger side air temp worked fine.
 
Will the set of 3 blend motors from a 95 4.6 hse fit my 96 2.5 TD? It's 3 motors on one plug if that's the ones I need?
 
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