Hi all,

So I have a bit of a problem when setting off, with kangarooing in first, I think I have narrowed down the options to transmission, but wanted to canvas option...

So History: The Landy has been remapped by alive, and this is when the problem become more apparent... I think the increase torque has uncovered the problem. I've chatted with Gary about the map and he's happy with the parameters set, and I have also done some diagnostics which I feel confirm its not engine:
- MAF: tested and reading well - 56kg/hr at idle
- MAP: cleaned tested and working well
- CPS: cleaned and no issues, engine runs smooth, no lumpiness or surging etc..
- TPS: all voltages reading well - both tracks & constant.

I have had the transfer box high/low switch and jumped the plug to put it into "low map" and you can feel the difference in the throttle response, with much slower input and throttle response, which has actually significantly improved the issue, but obviously has only masked the problem rather than solved it.

Overall the Land Rover drives well, with nothing to "note" on the engine... the only thing is a "crack" when coming off the accelerator, which is what is pointing me towards transmission/ drive train. It sounds like it is coming from around front passenger side. Engine mount? or drive shaft?

So before I start stripping things down, and chasing problems any advice/ thoughts on where to start/ look for/ test is warmly welcome.

Try unplugging the maf sensor and then try it...clutch switch??

MAF has been unplugged with all the above trial and error work...

Clutch switch... where would that be? - and don't say clutch!!! I didn't know it had one....

I was wondering if it could be the drive shafts / hub splines (no idea of the name) or diffs? thoughts

It’s easy to check the drive shafts. Take a wheel off and remove six nuts holding the drive member in place.
Withdraw the drive shaft a couple of inches, with the drive member still attached, and check for play in the splines.
You’ll probably find the splined joint covered in rusty dust, and the dust cap full of the same, often replacing just the drive member will take up most of the play.
Repeat with the other three wheels. After this the Landy will most likely be transformed.
You’ll most likely need to fit a new paper gasket when replacing the drive member.
Also you’ll need circlip pliers to remove the circlip on the end of the drive shaft

Will give it a try. Would a worn drive member cause a “clunk /
Crack” when coming off the accelerator?

I would say so. Ours was more of a clashing noise as you accelerate/decelerated