have you confirmed diff lock, when shorting the wires was it both together or one to earth,does switch work now its removed again, how thick is the lock nut ie std nut thickness
 
light comes on when wires shorted together.

havent removed switch tonite - hopefully tomoz.


here is pic of old switch - new one identical.

69786d1426709857-90-r380-diff-lock-switch-problem-image.jpg
 

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ignore the position of the locknut - i wound it down. the locknut on both the old and new switches is wound right up to the head :eek:, but doesnt switch.
 
I have just removed the new switch - the nut was round right up to the head. the switch was wound right down into the box and not working, but having checked the switch again it works fine out of the car.

I am beginning to think it must be the mechanism, but the front arm moves over to, what i believe is far enough.
 
doesnt sound like selector is even if linkage appears to be, as switch works directly off the selector ,jack a wheel up and try
 
thats the job for saturday. how is it adjusted? ll the adjustment seems to be on top of the Tbox, where I cant reach it? :(
 
if its not worn plastic pivot bushes it is adjusted by winding pivot in/out,you could try with a spanner on the nut ,its possible that spigot has jumped out of shaft slot too
 
with yu on plastic bushes and pivot. Not sure of spigot/shaft tho. will have a play on saturday and report back.
 
I assume if you connect the switch (uninstalled) to the wires and press the end of the switch in/out the light works as expected?
 
Kwakerman said:
I assume if you connect the switch (uninstalled) to the wires and press the end of the switch in/out the light works as expected?
Click to expand...


oh yes :)

to be precise - the new one does - the old one didnt, which is why i just thought it was the switch, but apparently not :eek:
 
Looking at a genuine Lucas switch on fleabay (which looks slightly different to yours) there are about 17 or 18 turns on the thread (without locknut). Is your new one the same? At least that will confirm it is the correct length switch.
 
17 on mine - came from a spare T-box, so i am confident that the switch is the correct one & OK. PRC2911
 
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To check the gearbox movement, you might remove the switch and put a long screwdriver vertically down t'hole. Then when you move the lever into the diff locked position, you should feel the cam try to push the screwdriver upwards. (as per Kwackermans post)
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
any guides to linkage adjustment - cant see ought in theworkshop manual, or ont interweb :eek:.
Click to expand...

undo top nut/bolt , remove pivot clip ,slide out lever , 13mm spanner slacken lock nut ,wind pivot out a turn or 2 refit linkage and try ,nip top nut/bolt reasonably tight to reduce any slack, presumably its not going into diff lock with lever but will with a spanner
 
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