Good work, and very nice choice of colour!

What is the reason behind high build primer? I'm teaching myself to spray at the moment and simply sprayed a thin layer of etch, then the nato green over the top.

I use a thin layer of etch and then a base primer - Filler primer is exactly as it sounds - Its a thick primer that allows you to get imperfections out of the panel . Using a guide coat you can block the paint back to get a totally smooth surface before top coat . I use this method all the time with VW's I build and habits are hard to break .
I am also painting the 90 in metallic paint so reflections will be somewhat more than the nato green it was originally .
From the start I wanted it to look and be straight .

Hope you like how it turns out
 
with the high grade paintwork youre doing its really worth shot blasting the chassis and maybe galv just to make the rebuild work permanent instead of the chassis causing trouble forever more

If I decide to keep for a fair bit Im sure I will re chassis it anyway - Also fit a " new " engine .

However I get bored of my daily's very quickly or someone offers be something I want more .

Its one of the reasons I dont work that often on my " proper " cars , I dont want to get bored of them and end up selling
 
More work done .

Cappings painted in one of the body colours ;) They are also clear coated here - I also did the corner pieces at the same time

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Cappings fitted with nice new pop rivets - Air rivet gun had to be purchased after about 3 attempts with a hand one - 1 , It hurts 2 , They bounce off the paint - Doh !!!

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Corner pieces also fitted

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Couldnt resist putting the registration number back on - I will be re fitting as I go as I have all sorts of LandRover bits all over the workshop and they are in the way , although this may seem a bit random , there is method in my madness- I dont want any damage from Hanger Rash which will add to cost of build - This is strictly a budget affair !!!!

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The side panels were stripped to bare metal, Then given a coat of etch primer

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Etch dried - ready for primer etc .

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I then had a problem , Despite giving a whole 2 days for the etch to go off , when I applied the primer it reacted and I had to redo all the prep work .
I re did the etch and the primer then added some base coat to see if it would react - The only reason I could think was that the acid hadnt dried - so it was time to get the heaters out .

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This is the final warm up before the final base coat goes on - 4 coats of base and 8 of clear - just like the rest

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I also got around to masking the rear arches ready fore the 2nd colour to be applied

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Once painted I couldnt stop myself mocking up with the windows in place - You can also see the 2nd colour - Mercedes Obsidian black metallic .

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The rear hinges were also painted - For these I first dipped them to kill any rust then cleaned and prepped them with phosphoric acid and then covered with KBS Rust stop - This was prior to filling and the primer and top coat - These are steel and will rust and I hate to see otherwise nice cars with rusty hinges ( just one of my things )

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I could then offer up my rear door - The spare wheel carrier was also given the same treatment as the hinges - except they were finished in black

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So there we go - Starting to look like a Land rover again .

More to follow soon
 
Thanks Guys , Really enjoying doing this and am pleased with the results so far .
All my spare time is now spent on this as I really need the workshop space back .

will keep posting the updates
 
What soundproofing did you use?

Good old fashioned roof flashing .
I am happy to use this on the 90 - Just heat it up so it sticks .
Its cheep and does the job - Just !!!
Ive used it in the battery tray and also on the top of the tubs in the rear .

On Fully " Built " cars - I would use dynamat , but that is probably more to buy that the 90 in the first place :)
 
Good old fashioned roof flashing .
I am happy to use this on the 90 - Just heat it up so it sticks .
Its cheep and does the job - Just !!!
Ive used it in the battery tray and also on the top of the tubs in the rear .

On Fully " Built " cars - I would use dynamat , but that is probably more to buy that the 90 in the first place :)

I was looking at roof flashing actually, what did you use? Flashing Tape 150mm x 10m | Screwfix.com

I am going to use the stuff like Dynamat, very high quality just I'm not paying for advertising so the price is a bit better.
 
I was looking at roof flashing actually, what did you use? Flashing Tape 150mm x 10m | Screwfix.com

I am going to use the stuff like Dynamat, very high quality just I'm not paying for advertising so the price is a bit better.

Im fairly sure it came from B&Q or similar .
Cheap as chips and good for what it is .

If it was for a keeper then Dynamat or equivalent would be way forward .
Roof flashing in my Chevy Stepside - No Way !!!!
 
A bit more work done

Bonnet hinge in base coat - just to see how it looked in paint - It will be black eventually - to match the arches and the bonnet ;-)

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Window hinges in base and clear

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Bulkhead in base and clear

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The side panel painted - lack of factory weld looks good IMHO

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Masking removed
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More to follow soon
 
That is one nice colour, Whats it called? or is it a one off

Paint is a PPG mixed paint - 2K - colour is VW sunburst Red , It was used on polo's a number of years ago - 2005 ish .
Its a nice deep red with a hint of orange about it - Looks good in the sun .

Nothing special about it just walk into your paint shop with the code and they will mix it - expect about £35 to £40 a litre + the dreaded .

I can find paint code if anyone wants it .

I only did a test on a panel and liked it - I was going Anthracite and Black.

Thanks for looking

Jon
 
Thanks for that, Does look very nice an i am sure your right about the sun being on it. Cant wait to see it finished.
 

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