Defender90fan
New Member
Looking good
I use a thin layer of etch and then a base primer - Filler primer is exactly as it sounds - Its a thick primer that allows you to get imperfections out of the panel . Using a guide coat you can block the paint back to get a totally smooth surface before top coat . I use this method all the time with VW's I build and habits are hard to break .
I am also painting the 90 in metallic paint so reflections will be somewhat more than the nato green it was originally .
From the start I wanted it to look and be straight .
Hope you like how it turns out
If I decide to keep for a fair bit Im sure I will re chassis it anyway - Also fit a " new " engine .
However I get bored of my daily's very quickly or someone offers be something I want more .
Its one of the reasons I dont work that often on my " proper " cars , I dont want to get bored of them and end up selling
More work done .
Cappings painted in one of the body colours
They are also clear coated here - I also did the corner pieces at the same time
Cappings fitted with nice new pop rivets - Air rivet gun had to be purchased after about 3 attempts with a hand one - 1 , It hurts 2 , They bounce off the paint - Doh !!!
Corner pieces also fitted
Couldnt resist putting the registration number back on - I will be re fitting as I go as I have all sorts of LandRover bits all over the workshop and they are in the way , although this may seem a bit random , there is method in my madness- I dont want any damage from Hanger Rash which will add to cost of build - This is strictly a budget affair !!!!
The side panels were stripped to bare metal, Then given a coat of etch primer
Etch dried - ready for primer etc .
I then had a problem , Despite giving a whole 2 days for the etch to go off , when I applied the primer it reacted and I had to redo all the prep work .
I re did the etch and the primer then added some base coat to see if it would react - The only reason I could think was that the acid hadnt dried - so it was time to get the heaters out .
This is the final warm up before the final base coat goes on - 4 coats of base and 8 of clear - just like the rest
I also got around to masking the rear arches ready fore the 2nd colour to be applied
Once painted I couldnt stop myself mocking up with the windows in place - You can also see the 2nd colour - Mercedes Obsidian black metallic .
The rear hinges were also painted - For these I first dipped them to kill any rust then cleaned and prepped them with phosphoric acid and then covered with KBS Rust stop - This was prior to filling and the primer and top coat - These are steel and will rust and I hate to see otherwise nice cars with rusty hinges ( just one of my things )
I could then offer up my rear door - The spare wheel carrier was also given the same treatment as the hinges - except they were finished in black
So there we go - Starting to look like a Land rover again .
More to follow soon
Cappings painted in one of the body colours
They are also clear coated here - I also did the corner pieces at the same time
Cappings fitted with nice new pop rivets - Air rivet gun had to be purchased after about 3 attempts with a hand one - 1 , It hurts 2 , They bounce off the paint - Doh !!!
Corner pieces also fitted
Couldnt resist putting the registration number back on - I will be re fitting as I go as I have all sorts of LandRover bits all over the workshop and they are in the way , although this may seem a bit random , there is method in my madness- I dont want any damage from Hanger Rash which will add to cost of build - This is strictly a budget affair !!!!
The side panels were stripped to bare metal, Then given a coat of etch primer
Etch dried - ready for primer etc .
I then had a problem , Despite giving a whole 2 days for the etch to go off , when I applied the primer it reacted and I had to redo all the prep work .
I re did the etch and the primer then added some base coat to see if it would react - The only reason I could think was that the acid hadnt dried - so it was time to get the heaters out .
This is the final warm up before the final base coat goes on - 4 coats of base and 8 of clear - just like the rest
I also got around to masking the rear arches ready fore the 2nd colour to be applied
Once painted I couldnt stop myself mocking up with the windows in place - You can also see the 2nd colour - Mercedes Obsidian black metallic .
The rear hinges were also painted - For these I first dipped them to kill any rust then cleaned and prepped them with phosphoric acid and then covered with KBS Rust stop - This was prior to filling and the primer and top coat - These are steel and will rust and I hate to see otherwise nice cars with rusty hinges ( just one of my things )
I could then offer up my rear door - The spare wheel carrier was also given the same treatment as the hinges - except they were finished in black
So there we go - Starting to look like a Land rover again .
More to follow soon
piston-return-spring
New Member
wow nice work done!
PembsLandy
Active Member
Very very nice !! Good work
DEFENDER90-DAZ
New Member
Brilliant paint job that!!!
Very nice!!
Very nice!!
discomania
Well-Known Member
Whilst I was sorting the seat base back I also cleaned out the battery well and fitted some soundproofing .
Sorry about the photo's - Phone camera
What soundproofing did you use?
Good old fashioned roof flashing .
I am happy to use this on the 90 - Just heat it up so it sticks .
Its cheep and does the job - Just !!!
Ive used it in the battery tray and also on the top of the tubs in the rear .
On Fully " Built " cars - I would use dynamat , but that is probably more to buy that the 90 in the first place
discomania
Well-Known Member
Good old fashioned roof flashing .
I am happy to use this on the 90 - Just heat it up so it sticks .
Its cheep and does the job - Just !!!
Ive used it in the battery tray and also on the top of the tubs in the rear .
On Fully " Built " cars - I would use dynamat , but that is probably more to buy that the 90 in the first place
I was looking at roof flashing actually, what did you use? Flashing Tape 150mm x 10m | Screwfix.com
I am going to use the stuff like Dynamat, very high quality just I'm not paying for advertising so the price is a bit better.
Im fairly sure it came from B&Q or similar .
Cheap as chips and good for what it is .
If it was for a keeper then Dynamat or equivalent would be way forward .
Roof flashing in my Chevy Stepside - No Way !!!!
A bit more work done
Bonnet hinge in base coat - just to see how it looked in paint - It will be black eventually - to match the arches and the bonnet ;-)
Window hinges in base and clear
Bulkhead in base and clear
The side panel painted - lack of factory weld looks good IMHO
Masking removed
More to follow soon
Bonnet hinge in base coat - just to see how it looked in paint - It will be black eventually - to match the arches and the bonnet ;-)
Window hinges in base and clear
Bulkhead in base and clear
The side panel painted - lack of factory weld looks good IMHO
Masking removed
More to follow soon
JohnnyDudeUK
New Member
Love that colour.
sinclair182
Active Member
Looking good bud!
Paint is a PPG mixed paint - 2K - colour is VW sunburst Red , It was used on polo's a number of years ago - 2005 ish .
Its a nice deep red with a hint of orange about it - Looks good in the sun .
Nothing special about it just walk into your paint shop with the code and they will mix it - expect about £35 to £40 a litre + the dreaded .
I can find paint code if anyone wants it .
I only did a test on a panel and liked it - I was going Anthracite and Black.
Thanks for looking
Jon
