M

Morrow1980

New Member
hi all,

My 4.6hse with no lpg, had been misfirng for last few months i fitted to new coils which improved this, the old coils were corroded, then last 4-5 days its been slightly missing again, i figured maybe one of the other coils going now, it cut out and at that time it said alternator fault, now the alternator may ne at fault but it was new last year and hasnt done many miles, i smelt no burning as such checked all fuses. disconnected battery no difference, tried it in neutral nothing, when i crank it there is no check engine light and no battery light, and the engine dosnt even attempt to turn over, cps maybe ? as a duff alternator wouldnt stop it cranking the battery was over 12 volts on the meter.
Its stuck in a busy car park and i`m baffled any ideas a great help

cheers
 
you think ? its prob the original on it so 15 year old, is that the symptoms ? they easy enough to swap in a car park ?
 
That was the symptons on mine a few years back. Awkward to get to down back of engine on passenger side, but did mine on the drive.
I'm assuming everything thing else is ok; such as key fob operating doors.
I seem to remember when mine first started doing this I could sometimes start it when the gear lever was pushed over into low range. Of course engine will only start in position 'P'. But give it a go - might get you out of the car park.
 
everything else is in order, i will try that trick, was vvvvv close to using the claw hammer on it think the tourists all around put stop to that, just as well wasnt in a wee lane, these p38`s are good and soooo bad , like a love hate thing with it
 
Morrow1980 said:
everything else is in order, i will try that trick, was vvvvv close to using the claw hammer on it think the tourists all around put stop to that, just as well wasnt in a wee lane, these p38`s are good and soooo bad , like a love hate thing with it
Click to expand...

That about sums it up for all us p38 owners. Good luck with getting it started, let us know how you get on.
 
cheers mate i will do, just need to try locate a sensor asap as the traffic warden there thinks he`s a copper with that ticket book
 
Morrow1980 said:
hi all,

My 4.6hse with no lpg, had been misfirng for last few months i fitted to new coils which improved this, the old coils were corroded, then last 4-5 days its been slightly missing again, i figured maybe one of the other coils going now, it cut out and at that time it said alternator fault, now the alternator may ne at fault but it was new last year and hasnt done many miles, i smelt no burning as such checked all fuses. disconnected battery no difference, tried it in neutral nothing, when i crank it there is no check engine light and no battery light, and the engine dosnt even attempt to turn over, cps maybe ? as a duff alternator wouldnt stop it cranking the battery was over 12 volts on the meter.
Its stuck in a busy car park and i`m baffled any ideas a great help

cheers
Click to expand...
Does it or does it not crank? It's not clear from your post. If it doesn't crank think battery and connections or fuse box and relays, the cps is not relevant until it starts to turn with the starter.
If it cranks but does not start I would go for loss of sync.
 
also check your earth connection, can try a jump cable from the battery minus to the motor block
 
Crank sensor has nothing to do with it. When petrols Thor and GEMS are out of sync, one will crank but not start, one won't crank at all. But i always forget which way round it is.
 
+1 with lost sync,this happened to me some years ago in a p38 when I was parked on the top floor of a multi-story car park, when I returned to car it wouldnt unlock looked around & all I could see was satalite dishes and aerial masts everywhere totally played havock with my electrics,couldnt even get a recovery truck up there to get me:eek:eventually after many eka trys + fob pressing locks popped:)never locked it again after that afterall if its got glass windows in it whats the point
 
it wont turn over at all,tried jumping it made no difference,, it has been spluttery for a wee while, neg term was a bit loose on battery but this hasnt helped, when it cut out it did say alternator fault , would this indicate cps ?

cheers
 
Min battery voltage should be at least 12.5 volts. Check the voltage on the leads to check any bad connections.
Check alternator wiring (little black plastic casing on top/back of alternator).
Is the negative battery lead secured properly to the block??
You could also try swapping the ignition & starter relays in the main fuse box (same colour relays can be swapped about).
 
wammers said:
Crank sensor has nothing to do with it. When petrols Thor and GEMS are out of sync, one will crank but not start, one won't crank at all. But i always forget which way round it is.
Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure the Thor cranks but no start and the Gems does not crank at all with loss of sync. You could try getting a tow to a different location as there are reports that moving away from strong RF signals helps but I think loss of sync is most likely.
 
Morrow1980 said:
it wont turn over at all,tried jumping it made no difference,, it has been spluttery for a wee while, neg term was a bit loose on battery but this hasnt helped, when it cut out it did say alternator fault , would this indicate cps ?

cheers
Click to expand...
If it say's alternator fault then there is an alternator fault, either the alternator itself or connection. The CPS is nothing at all to do with your problem.
Low battery voltage can often cause loss of sync and general havoc with the electronics.
You need a Nanocom or at the very least a Syncmate.
They do not like being jumped.
Remove and fully charge the battery, disconnect the alternator, make sure the connections are all clean and tight, do a re-sync and see what happens.
There may be someone nearby with a Syncmate or diagnostics if you ask although in Cowdenbeath you may be unlucky.
 
Last edited:
still stuck !,
found out fuse 26 had blown, it kept blowing, took out the coil and one of the new ones i had fitted had blown appart and the gunk was touching another coil, i assumed thiswas what was blowing the fuse, took coil out and put the bad coil at the very end so, got it fired up vvv rough, 5 secs later fuse blew, now before when the coil went i could still drive it just very slowly , so if i get new coil and leads i`m worried i`ll still be left with a donkey
 
Fuses 26 and 37 are the engine management system. Now sounding like a beggered fuse box. Although decent coils will help.
 
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