Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
Don't run her around with that in the sump.
I believe you bung it in the sump and let it run for 15mins then drain.
Don't run her around with that in the sump.
I believe you bung it in the sump and let it run for 15mins then drain.
No idea @Henry_b , cannot see any such instructions on the web info, will read the tin and any supporting literature.
However, perhaps I will buy a lube-kit (Oil & Filter) in preparation. Maybe run it till the noise goes away on cold starts, then change the lot out for fresh?
Decisions, decisions....... Duckhams or some other high-zinc oil OR just standard 10W/40? LOL
Its hard to believe that BL would be so lazy as to not engineer out the issues requiring the High-Zinc in these later iterations of this old design. But, one never knows.
norseman
Well-Known Member
Not just BL, Land Rover was a stand-alone company from 1978 & they don't seem to have done much either
Use a good mineral 20/50 with a high ZDDP content.
Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
It is left in just like all the others.
I use the valvoline vr1. 20/50 is ideal for the v8, LR say thinner oils because it helps with mpg and noise. In reality, the mpg difference can't be that much and I'd rather use a decent oil that's for for purpose.
As for engineering out the need for zinc, they did by ditching the engine, is the only real world. You can't just retrofit roller lifters
As for engineering out the need for zinc, they did by ditching the engine, is the only real world. You can't just retrofit roller lifters
Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
Oh i thought you meant engine flush!!
that stuff can be left in
The Wynns hydraulic valve stuff went in today when the engine was at operating temp (so all noise had gone by then anyway and it sounded nice & quiet).
Oil was still nice and clean (clear/yellowish) and showing no real carbon presence at all.
I let it run a bit longer after adding the Wynn's (thin as P1$$ that stuff is) and then gave it some beans on the loud pedal hoping to push it around a bit and get it fully dispersed into the oil.
I will see how clattery it is on cold starts over the next few trips. Not expecting a lot, but its only a <£10 spend to see if it does the job.
Oil was still nice and clean (clear/yellowish) and showing no real carbon presence at all.
I let it run a bit longer after adding the Wynn's (thin as P1$$ that stuff is) and then gave it some beans on the loud pedal hoping to push it around a bit and get it fully dispersed into the oil.
I will see how clattery it is on cold starts over the next few trips. Not expecting a lot, but its only a <£10 spend to see if it does the job.
biketeacherdave
Well-Known Member
Iv not read all the posts on this but here is my take....its noisey from cold when the engine oil is at its thickest and quiet when its hot at its thinest soooooo maybe put the thinest grade in you can get away with so the oil has a chance to get where it needs to straight away.
If all else fails i would be looking at your rockers
If all else fails i would be looking at your rockers
Did you not read my explanation of why it happens?
I did!
I am hoping any dirt/gloop/lacquer-deposits are going to get dissolved as this stuff passes on through.
Only time will tell, and if it works like "magic" I shall let you all know.
biketeacherdave
Well-Known Member
Nah
Maybe you should have.
I have to admit that I have not. The oil is still straw/golden coloured at the dipstick and I have done <3,000 miles since purchase.
I will do one this year, whatever the miles though. At least then I will know what's in it.
EDIT...
AND I will put a high zinc oil in.
