DanClarke

DanClarke

Well-Known Member
Full Member
I did a search and found some threads where people reported noise when engine was hot (oil thinned out?).
I always seem to get a bit of a clatter while she's cold until she's properly warmed up. Is this what people refer to as a "lazy lifter" leading to this clatter, is this correct?
As it always goes away when the engine is properly at operating temperature is it safe to ignore it, or will it be doing damage?
For example I can drive a fair distance and then she's nice & quiet; park up, come back within 45 mins and re-start and no-clatter. Only from stone cold does it sound "tappet-y".
 
Does sound like some form of oil starvation, I assume your oil filter is of decent quality incorporating a non-return valve & you are using the correct grade of oil?
As for the damage(?) question, metal components coming into contact with each other should not clatter if the oil is circulating properly.
Others will be along with more detailed advice I'm sure.
 
norseman said:
Does sound like some form of oil starvation, I assume your oil filter is of decent quality incorporating a non-return valve & you are using the correct grade of oil?
As for the damage(?) question, metal components coming into contact with each other should not clatter if the oil is circulating properly.
Others will be along with more detailed advice I'm sure.
Click to expand...
I think the filter is "Wix". No idea whether these are good/bad though.
 
Happens when crud gets on NRV in tappet and when engine stops with spring pressure on an effected tappet, oil is forced past the NRV depressing the tappet. Should go away very soon after startup, if not maybe outer sleeve to inner sleeve fit is tight due to crud buildup that relieves with temp increase or oil pressure is lower than it should be.
 
wammers said:
Happens when crud gets on NRV in tappet and when engine stops with spring pressure on an effected tappet, oil is forced past the NRV depressing the tappet. Should go away very soon after startup, if not maybe outer sleeve to inner sleeve fit is tight due to crud buildup that relieves with temp increase or oil pressure is lower than it should be.
Click to expand...
@wammers
Thank you Tony. I was told that the car had been dry-stored & standing for a long time and what MOT history there is online shows very few miles per annum and I myself do very few miles (<1,00 P.A), I just like to do them in comfort & style.
Would a Wynn's style additive for loosening hydraulic tappets be of value do you think if I ran it for a while with it in and then changed the oil afterwards? I am wondering if a buildup of solids has occurred and needs shifting out of there. As I say, once hot it sounds sweet and quiet mechanically.
 
DanClarke said:
@wammers
Thank you Tony. I was told that the car had been dry-stored & standing for a long time and what MOT history there is online shows very few miles per annum and I myself do very few miles (<1,00 P.A), I just like to do them in comfort & style.
Would a Wynn's style additive for loosening hydraulic tappets be of value do you think if I ran it for a while with it in and then changed the oil afterwards? I am wondering if a buildup of solids has occurred and needs shifting out of there. As I say, once hot it sounds sweet and quiet mechanically.
Click to expand...

Worth a try can't do any harm. Wynn's or STP.
 
A litre of ATF in the oil will clean out any crap, and a refill of a good 20w50

The thor V8 is still a 1960s OHV V8 with a modern'ish fuel injection system, so flat tappet cams!!!!

All flat tappet cams require ZDDP to stop the tappet and cam surfaces eating themselves..

10w40 is not good enough IMO not enough ZINC..

All flat tappet cams require ZDDP to stop the tappet and cam surfaces eating themselves..
 
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Henry_b said:
A litre of ATF in the oil will clean out any crap, and a refill of penrite 20w50..

The thor V8 is still a 1960s OHV V8 with a modern'ish fuel injection system.

10w40 is not good enough IMO not enough ZINC..

All flat tappet cams require ZDDP to stop the tappet and cam surfaces eating themselves..

penrite has an abundance of ZDDP in the oil
Click to expand...

They recommend 10W40 for our climate. None of the modern stuff has Zinc in it or if any not much. So they will have off set the lobes to spin the tappets for even wear somewhere along the line.
 
wammers said:
They recommend 10W40 for our climate. None of the modern stuff has Zinc in it or if any not much. So they will have off set the lobes to spin the tappets for even wear somewhere along the line.
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old oil that has a high percentage of Zinc in it, my 4.6 was noisy when cold, a good dose of 20w50 and she's silent no matter the temp, 125k
 
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How long is she left standing for OP?

When was he last service?
 
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10w40 is listed as the oil of choice but again the tolerances haven't changed internally since the 60s.

TcNw330l.jpg


Would be fun watching 5w30 pish out all the seals ;)
 
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Allegedly, its only done <15,000 in total. If the dealer and original owner are to be believed. Every metal/plastic part in the engine bay is like new.
When I bought it It looked like new inside & out. No creasing on the seats, everything spic & span.
It had a service and MOT with a lot of "perished rubber parts" replaced (age?) just before I bought it and has sailed through 2 MOT's since.I am tempted to add a lifter de-sludger in the first instance to see if it makes a difference.
I thank you all @norseman @wammers and @Henry_b for your kind attention. :)
 
DanClarke said:
Allegedly, its only done <15,000 in total. If the dealer and original owner are to be believed. Every metal/plastic part in the engine bay is like new.
When I bought it It looked like new inside & out. No creasing on the seats, everything spic & span.
It had a service and MOT with a lot of "perished rubber parts" replaced (age?) just before I bought it and has sailed through 2 MOT's since.I am tempted to add a lifter de-sludger in the first instance to see if it makes a difference.
I thank you all @norseman @wammers and @Henry_b for your kind attention. :)
Click to expand...

One of rubbers enemies is age so yes a few rubber parts would fall apart especially when she does so little mileage! ;)

20w50 Valvoline VR1

Plus a good dose of ATF in the current oil to help pull any crap out before the change.. :)
 
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Henry_b said:
old oil that has a high percentage of Zinc in it, my 4.6 was noisy when cold, a good dose of 20w50 and she's silent no matter the temp, 125k
Some also use a 15w40 Diesel oil, which has the detergents and zinc..Depends on temp and engine wear i guess, but ZDDP is where it's at YO!! ;)
Click to expand...

I use Valvoline VR1 on my Classic, 20/50 & 1200ppm ZDDP
nb: your avatar gets better & better Henry :cool:
 
Some Wynn's additive is inbound to the Clarke abode.
Will bung it in and report back on the "noisy when cold" status.
<£10 to give it a go. What's bad about that?
 
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